Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB

   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB #11  
Hopefully the tach/hour meter work, and those are original hours. Ought to make you a decent machine, I think you will like it.

Are you using OEM filters, or from NAPA..?? When I went through my Case, I wanted a double set, so as to flush fill, run a short while, then do it again. After doing some looking online, I ended up getting mine through FleetFilter FleetFilter Secure Store - Wix, Fram, Baldwin, Luberfiner, and getting the NAPA gold by Wix. At the time, I saved enough to even get extra air filters, including shipping, rather than buying local. But, the last time I checked, fuel prices had increased shipping enough, that prices were not cost effective, unless I bought 6 of each. You might check prices, just for giggles, and see if there is any savings. Shipping was pretty quick, like in 3-4 days.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Yeah excellent point in the tach... I'll be crossing my fingers for that.

Regarding filters, yes I've been planning exactly that. Thru Napa I'd be paying $139 for the full set. I can order the full Baldwin set from a seller on eBay for $129. And I can piece together and order the full Wix set on Amazon for $111. I've had good luck with Wix filters, but I also read that Baldwin makes quality filters also.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB #13  
My machine has no relevance to this but I think my experience applies to diesel engines in general.

When I got my 575E it would start but wouldn't run more than about 5 minutes and shut off. I replaced the fuel filter and got about an hour out of it before having the same thing happen. Turns out the tank had a lot of rust floating around in it. I cleaned out the tank and replaced the supply and return hoses. Got a couple more hours out of it and had the same shut down. Rust had clogged the little banjo fitting going into the sediment bowl and created a restriction there. Cleaned that fitting out and added a small engine filter in the supply line before the sediment bowl. Tractor has run fine ever since. That small $3 filter I added clogged a couple of times but hasn't done so in a long time. I keep a few in my tool box.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB
  • Thread Starter
#14  
My machine has no relevance to this but I think my experience applies to diesel engines in general.

When I got my 575E it would start but wouldn't run more than about 5 minutes and shut off. I replaced the fuel filter and got about an hour out of it before having the same thing happen. Turns out the tank had a lot of rust floating around in it. I cleaned out the tank and replaced the supply and return hoses. Got a couple more hours out of it and had the same shut down. Rust had clogged the little banjo fitting going into the sediment bowl and created a restriction there. Cleaned that fitting out and added a small engine filter in the supply line before the sediment bowl. Tractor has run fine ever since. That small $3 filter I added clogged a couple of times but hasn't done so in a long time. I keep a few in my tool box.
Thanks for the input, that's right along the lines of what I was thinking and hoping as well.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB #15  
I would start at the tank and work foward. Siphon some fuel off the bottom of the tank and see if it has any crud or water in it.

Great deal on a gimme machine!
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB #16  
I replaced the engine in one some years back, they are STOUT units, but nothing will survive with NO OIL in the crankcase :(

The one we worked on was like a power shift, so no clutch but had a converter in it's place. Never operated it, just replaced the crank and rods that were destroyed.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB #17  
The original plate was on the LH side of the steering cowl. Probably worn off. Stamped s/n, 'true model' and date code are stamped into RH transmission ledge behind the starter. Date code would be like: 8A16B which translates-8=1978, A=Jan, 16=Day, B=Shift (day). The plate on the B/H. Is the backhoe model indicating length of stick, lever configuration, etc. Type the 19-... number into the New Holland parts model search. All the backhoes used on 550's are 750 models, but the 19-... number is the 'true model' again.
I have a 78 550 and love it. 30" bucket digs like crazy, but can get tippy dumping. Mine has the torque converter transmission and still grunts to a full bucket load when dozing. Just worked on a 575E with 4wd and it didn't seem out push its bucket.
Your fuel problem sounds like the filter in the tank has fallen off and the shutoff has clogged with debris. Look into tank with a flashlight to verify. Fix is remove hood, unbolt tank and lift high enough to remove shutoff (after you have drained the tank of course). You can get an aftermarket shutoff with screen if you want to have on hand.
Most likely hourmeter has been replaced several times during its life, so hours could be anybody's guess.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Thank you for the post. I'm hoping to get over there in the next week or two, to try to start it. I won't be trailering it home yet, but I'd like to move it to a different spot in the parking lot, near electric, do I can put a battery tender on it.

What is the easiest way on this machine to drain the fuel tank out in the field? My primary concern will be just getting it started and moved temporarily, until I can actually get it home closer to spring.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB #19  
As JD855 said, siphon the fuel or pump out. Other than that, drain through fuel outlet line, but this is slow process. When you do remove the tank, this will be a great time to inspect, repair or replace shift linkage and steering lines.

When you get it home, look at the hydraulic pump driveline zerks. Bump the engine over until zerk is in view. Generally, you can grease one conventionally. If they are oem, the zerks are on the cap of the cross. The second zerk can be greased with a conventional tip, but easier with a 90º tip. Inspect driveline for wear as it will take out the radiator in an extreme failure, but will leave you stranded at the very least. Look at your fanbelt too. Driveline has to be unbolted and slid forward to install belt, but this is easier said than done.
Also, remove the grill, loosen the hydraulic cooler fittings and pivot cooler forward. Inspect and clean the radiator and cooler.
 
   / Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Well I'm planning to head down tomorrow and see if I cam get her started.

Tractor Tech and DJ54... I picked up a manual and I'm trying to gather maintenance materials.

Ford lists the following fluids in the manual, but I'm having trouble finding a modern cross reference. Do you know which fluid types these correspond with today?

Hydraulic: M2C48A (just AW46?)
Trans: M2C53A
Steering Pump: M2C41A
Rear Axle: M2C53A

Thanks...
 

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