Looking for info on Ford 550 TLB

[TSO]

So I have the opportunity to pickup an older TLB from an acquaintance. I'll just say that for all practical purposes, I can have it for basically free. It's been sitting for a year, but this company used it for maintaining their business grounds and pushing snow for the last 40 years. I didn't look at the hour meter, but I'd guess the hours are lower than average. I don't "need" it yet but it would come in handy on some of my larger jobs as my business expands.

Looks like these units were built in the late 70's, weigh in at around 11,500 lbs, and have a fairly strong loader and hoe. TractorData.com Ford 55 backhoe-loader tractor attachments information

This company replaced the unit last year with a newer one with full cab. Apparently before they parked it, it was having issues with the fuel cutting out. Speaking with the employee that ran it, he stated that it would always start even in winter (with an ether shot) and would run for awhile, then stall out. After sitting for a short period, it would restart and run again. It also had a small leak in a fuel line. They believe the stalling issue was fuel related, but instead of dealing with it, they just bought a new one since they wanted a cab anyhow, and parked this one (it's been long long paid for). They say that besides the occasional stalling issue, it was a strong runner with good hydraulics, a couple new lines, minor leaks, etc.

So anyhow... Not that I want a money pit, but for the "price of admission" I think i can justify a potential project.

I tried to find a serial plate on it but couldn't. Granted I only spent about 5 mins looking at it (this just sorta came up out of the blue).

Can anyone with experience running or owning this machine give me any insight, advice, warnings, tips, etc? Do you know where I might locate the VIN plate? Do you have a list of maintenance items, filter numbers, etc?

There's no particular rush, but I want to get myself prepared. Before Spring, I'm hoping to bring some tools to the site, a battery charger, filters, new fuel, portable compressor (tires low) etc... And see if she'll get running. Then I can load her up and get her to the barn for some closer attention.

Thanks in advance!

 

[japody]

Free!!! Wow, some people have all the luck. Please let us know how it works out.

 

[DJ54]

A 550 is what I learned on, 40 some years ago, working for the DOT. Loved that old hoe. I'll assume it is a 4-stick machine. It had way more guts than a comparable Case, or JD at that time. I put in countless culverts, and cleaned literally miles of ditches with it. It is a very quick hoe, and you learn to do at least 2 functions, but can do 4 functions at one time to smooth out the operation. I always ran it at 1800-2000 rpm's, and doing the multi functions at once, it was smooth as glass. But, that only comes with seat time.

One thing I did not care for, was two fingers that made contact with the boom when swinging. They pulled the control lever back towards neutral, so as not to slam it, when making a side swing. But, you really had to push hard, to make it swing full to the side. But, they were spring loaded, so you could make the full swing. I asked the mechanic if he could remove them. He said sure, and cut them off with a torch. Sure made it a pleasure to run after that. Again, if they are still on there, leave them until you get some seat time, as it does swing fast..!!

One other thing, is the u-joint that drives the front hydraulic pump. It does have a grease zerk, but nearly impossible to get to. I'm thinking even with removing the grill, you still cannot get to it. Once again, the mechanic got the smoke wrench out, and cut a 6" X 6" or so hole in the side of the front radiator cowling, so as to get to I to grease. Not one of Ford's greatest engineering feats. Probably not the easiest thing to change the hydraulic hoses on the rear either. If you do get it, and it needs some hoses changes, I believe I'd invest in a decent set of crow foot wrenches. It will make things a LOT easier, if you do need to change a hose.

I did manage to break the swing chain one time. Other than that, probably put 5,000 hrs. on it, and no problems that I recall.

I did love the way the seat would pivot & slide, without having to get up. More than I can say for the Case hoe I have now. Keep the pivot greased, and the slides oiled, and it works like a champ.

I couldn't remember where the serial # plate was, so went to TractorData, and it says data plate on the left side of tractor's steering console.

For any filters, or just any parts at all on that machine, click on this link. I already have it on the 550's parts catalog page. Official New Holland Construction Equipment Online Parts Store and Parts Finder. You can copy, and paste the filter numbers to NAPA online, if you don't have a New Holland dealer near you.

Hope this helps..!!

 

[TSO]

Thanks for that post! Sounds like your experience on the machine is quite extensive. Yes it has 4 sticks on the hoe. I actually do happen to have a nice set of Crowfoot wrenches, had to buy them for certain maintenance points on my Terex track loader.

What operational limitations or quirks would be worth pointing out on this machine? On paper it looks plenty strong, but would you agree with the paper specs? I completely grasp that it's a 40 yr old unit, but operationally, what is it lacking from your case, or other newer units?

Also, did you ever encounter the stalling issue during your uses? Or other possible fuel delivery related issues?

I should add... That the listed weight of 11,400 is really ideal for me... My truck is paper rated for 17,100 gooseneck, and with the 16k trailer I'll be getting this spring, this loader is still easily transportable with my F450. Do you know if that published weight is accurate to real life?

Thanks again

 

[TSO]

 

[DJ54]

The one we had, had a manual transmission and clutch. Not that big of a deal unless you're loading with the loader. That is one plus I can say for my Case, and the shuttle shift fore & aft. It still has a manual 4 spd. trans. Why they got one with a manual transmission, and not the shuttle is probably due to it being put out on bid to buy. Some bean counter somewhere saw the manual transmission was cheaper, and that seems to be all that matters when contract buying. Still all in all, a great old hoe.

Another option my Case has, that the 550 doesn't have, it the extenda-hoe. It sure is nice, to reach back and clean up some crumbs when ditching a trench. The Ford did have more hydraulics, if you wanted to position yourself sideways closer to something, once in position, using the hoe. Again, probably not important in general operation, but we did a lot of bridge work, and it was nice to set yourself over, because sometimes there wasn't a lot of space to jockey the machine. And, putting in culverts, you could set yourself at the right angle to reach in the trench, as we were pretty limited to working from the road surface, due to steep side banks, on the old 3rd priority roads. It can get a little tippy, when digging sideways, because of the strong hydraulics. But, I'd much rather have more breakout force, and just watch your P's & Q's, if you're digging to the side. Also when digging sideways, the hoe will actually come in far enough, it will reach under the outrigger, if you knuckle down.

The operators station seemed to have plenty of room. Although space for a larger tool box would have been nice. Not quite big enough to put a grease gun in, to secure it. Being it set out on the job most of the time, items too big to fit in the tool box had to be taken in with you, as it may not be there the next day. The seat adjustment, from using the front end, to pivoting around to use the hoe are set the same level, with good vision. Parking brake is easily reached from either position. Depending on the situation, sometimes I'd spin around to pull up, other times, just push myself ahead with the hoe, but always used the parking brake when in position, just to hold it in place, until the outriggers were set.

As far as the fuel issue, we never had any. On that one, I'd have to guess fuel filters. Could be some algae in the tank, and got into the filters. Enough to let it run at an idle, but, filters plugged enough, it won't allow enough fuel to run at higher rpms. Second guess, a clogged return line. Being me, I'd probably first have to take a good flashlight, and look in the fuel tank. Or, drain some out of the tank into a container, and see what the fuel looks like. If it's nasty looking, purge, and flush the tank. If it's clean, change filters, and check the return line. Even check the air filters. Who knows what kind of maintenance schedule they had. From the sounds of things, I don't think it's that serious of a problem, but, I've been wrong before. Guess there is one way to find out.

My 480 Case weighs about the same. Back then, they may have reported the weight as bare weight, not operating weight. So, a full tank of fuel, and hydraulics topped off, may not have been included.

I think you'll be fine with your truck and trailer. I haul mine on a 18,000 lb. tri-axle, and pull it with a 1 ton Chevy Dump, with a 350 engine, 5 speed manual tranny, & 4.10 gear. Not a powerhouse on hills, but most places I can run along 50-55 if I want to. I never worried too much about pulling something, it's more about getting it whoa'd, when I need to.

Sounds like it's going to be a fun project, if it comes to be.

Oh yeah... When you load it, do BACK it on. Extend the hoe out, for counter weight, and so it will clear. As I recall, it did have better ground clearance than my Case. They are pretty light in the front end, otherwise, you'll be looking up at Jesus, once the rear wheels hit the ramps, if pulling it on.

 

[DJ54]

Just now saw the picture. Nice looking hoe..!! The large holes by the outriggers is where I ran the chain through, when transporting. The holes in the outriggers to drop a chain in, are to hold the boom, in case it drifts off. There should be matching holes in the boom. Pretty sure it takes sections of 3/8" chain.

 

[dclynch]

Wow I am jealous if you don't grab it let me know I am a few miles north of you and I would get down there in a heart beat for that... J/K hope it works out for you.

 

[TSO]

Well I had about two minutes available to stop by and take a closer look at it today. Still can't find the serial number plate anywhere, there are a few other plates but they are operational plates, not identifiers. Found a serial number on the block, looks like a 1979 casting. There's a number stamped on the BH but I can't find any info with it.

I wanted to get a look at what tools I would need to bring to remove the battery (this one looks ancient but I'll throw it on the bench in the barn and see if it'll recharge) and to access the engine compartment so I can change the filters. Looks like all filters will cost me around $130. Ordered an "operators service manual" for it and that should be here in a couple days. I'll hold off on ordering the shop/service and parts manuals until I get it running and back to my place.

Oh good news, looks like it only has 1357 hours... So I'm hoping it's still a viable machine. The metal is all mostly good, but there is some rust rot on and around the operators station, might need some fab work, we'll see.

 

[fried1765]

Well I had about two minutes available to stop by and take a closer look at it today. Still can't find the serial number plate anywhere, there are a few other plates but they are operational plates, not identifiers. Found a serial number on the block, looks like a 1979 casting. There's a number stamped on the BH but I can't find any info with it.

I wanted to get a look at what tools I would need to bring to remove the battery (this one looks ancient but I'll throw it on the bench in the barn and see if it'll recharge) and to access the engine compartment so I can change the filters. Looks like all filters will cost me around $130. Ordered an "operators service manual" for it and that should be here in a couple days. I'll hold off on ordering the shop/service and parts manuals until I get it running and back to my place.

Oh good news, looks like it only has 1357 hours... So I'm hoping it's still a viable machine. The metal is all mostly good, but there is some rust rot on and around the operators station, might need some fab work, we'll see.

I am jealous as he11!!!
I love my 1970 Ford 3400 TLB (I wanted a smaller Ford - have owned it for 30 yrs.).
At my age, I call it my "yellow wheelbarrow".
You should plan to keep that machine ....FOREVER !!!!

 

[DJ54]

Hopefully the tach/hour meter work, and those are original hours. Ought to make you a decent machine, I think you will like it.

Are you using OEM filters, or from NAPA..?? When I went through my Case, I wanted a double set, so as to flush fill, run a short while, then do it again. After doing some looking online, I ended up getting mine through FleetFilter FleetFilter Secure Store - Wix, Fram, Baldwin, Luberfiner, and getting the NAPA gold by Wix. At the time, I saved enough to even get extra air filters, including shipping, rather than buying local. But, the last time I checked, fuel prices had increased shipping enough, that prices were not cost effective, unless I bought 6 of each. You might check prices, just for giggles, and see if there is any savings. Shipping was pretty quick, like in 3-4 days.

 

[TSO]

Yeah excellent point in the tach... I'll be crossing my fingers for that.

Regarding filters, yes I've been planning exactly that. Thru Napa I'd be paying $139 for the full set. I can order the full Baldwin set from a seller on eBay for $129. And I can piece together and order the full Wix set on Amazon for $111. I've had good luck with Wix filters, but I also read that Baldwin makes quality filters also.

 

[TractorGuy]

My machine has no relevance to this but I think my experience applies to diesel engines in general.

When I got my 575E it would start but wouldn't run more than about 5 minutes and shut off. I replaced the fuel filter and got about an hour out of it before having the same thing happen. Turns out the tank had a lot of rust floating around in it. I cleaned out the tank and replaced the supply and return hoses. Got a couple more hours out of it and had the same shut down. Rust had clogged the little banjo fitting going into the sediment bowl and created a restriction there. Cleaned that fitting out and added a small engine filter in the supply line before the sediment bowl. Tractor has run fine ever since. That small $3 filter I added clogged a couple of times but hasn't done so in a long time. I keep a few in my tool box.

 

[TSO]

My machine has no relevance to this but I think my experience applies to diesel engines in general.

When I got my 575E it would start but wouldn't run more than about 5 minutes and shut off. I replaced the fuel filter and got about an hour out of it before having the same thing happen. Turns out the tank had a lot of rust floating around in it. I cleaned out the tank and replaced the supply and return hoses. Got a couple more hours out of it and had the same shut down. Rust had clogged the little banjo fitting going into the sediment bowl and created a restriction there. Cleaned that fitting out and added a small engine filter in the supply line before the sediment bowl. Tractor has run fine ever since. That small $3 filter I added clogged a couple of times but hasn't done so in a long time. I keep a few in my tool box.

Thanks for the input, that's right along the lines of what I was thinking and hoping as well.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would start at the tank and work foward. Siphon some fuel off the bottom of the tank and see if it has any crud or water in it.

Great deal on a gimme machine!

 

[ModMech]

I replaced the engine in one some years back, they are STOUT units, but nothing will survive with NO OIL in the crankcase

The one we worked on was like a power shift, so no clutch but had a converter in it's place. Never operated it, just replaced the crank and rods that were destroyed.

 

[TractorTech]

The original plate was on the LH side of the steering cowl. Probably worn off. Stamped s/n, 'true model' and date code are stamped into RH transmission ledge behind the starter. Date code would be like: 8A16B which translates-8=1978, A=Jan, 16=Day, B=Shift (day). The plate on the B/H. Is the backhoe model indicating length of stick, lever configuration, etc. Type the 19-... number into the New Holland parts model search. All the backhoes used on 550's are 750 models, but the 19-... number is the 'true model' again.
I have a 78 550 and love it. 30" bucket digs like crazy, but can get tippy dumping. Mine has the torque converter transmission and still grunts to a full bucket load when dozing. Just worked on a 575E with 4wd and it didn't seem out push its bucket.
Your fuel problem sounds like the filter in the tank has fallen off and the shutoff has clogged with debris. Look into tank with a flashlight to verify. Fix is remove hood, unbolt tank and lift high enough to remove shutoff (after you have drained the tank of course). You can get an aftermarket shutoff with screen if you want to have on hand.
Most likely hourmeter has been replaced several times during its life, so hours could be anybody's guess.

 

[TSO]

Thank you for the post. I'm hoping to get over there in the next week or two, to try to start it. I won't be trailering it home yet, but I'd like to move it to a different spot in the parking lot, near electric, do I can put a battery tender on it.

What is the easiest way on this machine to drain the fuel tank out in the field? My primary concern will be just getting it started and moved temporarily, until I can actually get it home closer to spring.

 

[TractorTech]

As JD855 said, siphon the fuel or pump out. Other than that, drain through fuel outlet line, but this is slow process. When you do remove the tank, this will be a great time to inspect, repair or replace shift linkage and steering lines.

When you get it home, look at the hydraulic pump driveline zerks. Bump the engine over until zerk is in view. Generally, you can grease one conventionally. If they are oem, the zerks are on the cap of the cross. The second zerk can be greased with a conventional tip, but easier with a 90º tip. Inspect driveline for wear as it will take out the radiator in an extreme failure, but will leave you stranded at the very least. Look at your fanbelt too. Driveline has to be unbolted and slid forward to install belt, but this is easier said than done.
Also, remove the grill, loosen the hydraulic cooler fittings and pivot cooler forward. Inspect and clean the radiator and cooler.

 

[TSO]

Well I'm planning to head down tomorrow and see if I cam get her started.

Tractor Tech and DJ54... I picked up a manual and I'm trying to gather maintenance materials.

Ford lists the following fluids in the manual, but I'm having trouble finding a modern cross reference. Do you know which fluid types these correspond with today?

Hydraulic: M2C48A (just AW46?)
Trans: M2C53A
Steering Pump: M2C41A
Rear Axle: M2C53A

Thanks...