Top Link questions

[kerlingb]

I'm planning on purchasing an hydraulic toplink for my ~40hp, cat 1 Montana 4320. I measured the top link length of all of my implements with the implement leveled and found they range from 25 3/8 to 27 3/8.

I found this link for sale: 2X11X1.18 CATEGORY 1 HYDRAULIC DOUBLE ACTING TOP LINK CYLINDER

If I'm reading this right, my implements fall almost exactly in the middle of the working length of this cylinder. That's what I should be aiming for, right?

Do you think this top link length is about what I should be aiming for?
Also, any opinions on the brand / website I found the link on?

Thanks in advance.

 

[kerlingb]

Also, can someone help me identify the type of connectors I need?

 

[ovrszd]

I've bought a lot of hydraulics from Surplus Center. Never any problems. Quick shipments.

Yes, that top link will give you 20 7/8" thru 31 7/8" length range.

 

[ovrszd]

Not being familiar with your tractor brand I hesitate to suggest a specific coupler. Maybe visit with your dealer if someone else doesn't offer information??

If you study this you can order all the parts you need to complete this install from Surplus Center. Take some careful measurements for correct hose length. Go long. Consider the height variations involved in raising/lowering your 3pt. I also like to use 3/8" or smaller hose. It's not as bulky and flexes much better than 1/2".

 

[RNeumann]

What implements do you want to use? I've found for my needs I wanted my top link with only a inches from shortest possible when level.

Your couplings will have markings on them that will tell you the brand and model number. You will need that info and a cross reference guide to get the right QD fittings.

Mahindra 1538 hydraulic top and tilt, third 3rd function - YouTube

The second half of this video shows my setup and why I wanted a bit longer ram.

Most of the hydraulic gurus on here say the ram with a check valve on it is redundant and not needed. Beyond that finding a ram with the proper ends will be the limiter.
You will wonder how you ever lived without the ram once you get it!

 

[LD1]

What are your intended uses for the toplink?

Does your remote valve have float?

On the surface of things, a 2" diameter cylinder seems a bit small for a 4000# tractor with 3200# rear lift

 

[kerlingb]

I do not know if the remote has float. How would i tell?

I have:
5' light duty brush mover
5' Box Blade
5' disc harrow
pallet forks
dirt scoop

I mainly do brush clearing/mowing and food plot work.
I do use the pallet forks to move around a 250 gallon IBC tote of water to water saplings in a small orchard (20 trees). This is heavier than any of my other implements, but i can't even get it full before the front end gets too light at about 175 gal (or about 1600lb by my calculations (including tote and forks). I don't have a FEL, so i assume i won't be able to use the 3pt to its max rated

 

[LD1]

Probably be okay with the 2" then since you arent using things to their fullest potential. The big concern isnt lifting and adjusting implements. Its the pressure spikes induced into the lines when going over pumps and something heavy is back there. But with the cylinder you link, which has DPCV, your hoses wouldnt see the spikes.....but that leads me to my next point....

Do you have a float valve or just a standard 3-position valve? Because if you have a float valve, that toplink wont allow you to float.

 

[ovrszd]

I didn't use a cylinder with a lock valve because I wanted to still have "float" function.

On the other side of that, almost all tractors have leaky valves. The cylinder with lock valve overcomes that and the top link will never "drift".

 

[LD1]

I didn't use a cylinder with a lock valve because I wanted to still have "float" function.

On the other side of that, almost all tractors have leaky valves. The cylinder with lock valve overcomes that and the top link will never "drift".

Two ways around that "drift" is to either put shutoff valves on the remote. I use these: 1/2 NPT 15 GPM PRINCE WFC-8 IN-LINE FLOW CONTROL where you can simple shut off that cylinder.

Other people just unhook the hoses to accomplish the same thing.

For me, I would not want to give up float. But if the valve dont even have float, you would be fine

 

[kerlingb]

I don't "think" i have float function. Would there be a switch or selector somewhere to turn float on/off? I am not aware of any such switch. I could not find anything in the manual about float function (the manual, however, is almost worthless)

Also any guess on the quick connect fitting, i cant find it anywhere in the manual either (and the tractor is currently an hour away) (my understanding is that montanas are re-branded LS, so my guess would be the same fittings that LS uses.

 

[RNeumann]

What are you using float for? Serious question BTW. 99% of folks have a rigid top link so implements that need some movement (like a brush hog) have that built into the implement. The 3 points I've seen don't have down pressure- meaning they move up and back to the position it was set at.

 

[LD1]

Float would be built into the valve. If you move it one direction, the lever will hit a hard stop. Move it the other, it will either hit a hard stop....or hit a soft stop, then can keep going and detent into a 4th position. That would be float.

 

[kerlingb]

Float would be built into the valve. If you move it one direction, the lever will hit a hard stop. Move it the other, it will either hit a hard stop....or hit a soft stop, then can keep going and detent into a 4th position. That would be float.

That makes sense. Thanks. I'm pretty sure mine is just a normal non float. I'll try the lever again next time I'm there to make sure now that I know what I'm looking for.

 

[RNeumann]

Float would be built into the valve. If you move it one direction, the lever will hit a hard stop. Move it the other, it will either hit a hard stop....or hit a soft stop, then can keep going and detent into a 4th position. That would be float.

I understand what it is. I'm wondering what task/implement you or anyone else is using it for.

 

[LD1]

I understand what it is. I'm wondering what task/implement you or anyone else is using it for.

That reply was for the OP to help him know weather he has one or not.

As far as tasks.....bushhogging. Alot of old bushhogs have rigid links. And even those that dont like my woods.....There is a limit to how far it will float "down" yet still have enough lift to clear something unseen that got run over and is banging around. Also, when mowing (backing) over my pond bank, its nice to just leave it in float and let the tail wheels do their thing.

 

[Rustyiron]

What implements do you want to use? I've found for my needs I wanted my top link with only a inches from shortest possible when level.

For bush hogging, I like to be able to raise the rear of the mower up real high (for the big stuff that you shouldn't really be mowing ) backing into your work, lowering, then pulling out, therefore wanting the t/l the opposite of your situation. Like you said, what implements will be used.

 

[ovrszd]

Two ways around that "drift" is to either put shutoff valves on the remote. I use these: 1/2 NPT 15 GPM PRINCE WFC-8 IN-LINE FLOW CONTROL where you can simple shut off that cylinder.

Other people just unhook the hoses to accomplish the same thing.

For me, I would not want to give up float. But if the valve dont even have float, you would be fine

Ya never miss what ya don't have (float).

 

[RNeumann]

That reply was for the OP to help him know weather he has one or not.

As far as tasks.....bushhogging. Alot of old bushhogs have rigid links. And even those that dont like my woods.....There is a limit to how far it will float "down" yet still have enough lift to clear something unseen that got run over and is banging around. Also, when mowing (backing) over my pond bank, its nice to just leave it in float and let the tail wheels do their thing.

Makes sense. I've never brush hogged but I've had hydraulic TnT for 20 plus years. All I could think of is trying to lift the box scraper to reset and this wet noodle behind me is just flopping around. I guess with the wheel behind the mower deck and no float built into the Implement float would be a must.

 

[ovrszd]

I want my hydraulic top link in the center of it's throw when on level ground. I want the ability to lengthen and allow my attachment to droop as much as possible. I also want the ability to shorten and allow my attachment to raise as much as possible. Not sure why I would want the cylinder to be near the end or it's stroke either way when operating under normal conditions?