Oil & Fuel Branson 3510 Fuel Injection Issue

[stevewm]

Tractor won't run above idle.

I have a 2005 3510 that I have owned since new and other than a hydraulic hose and the usual fuel pump problems, I have had no issues with it. It has just under 500 hours. I have changed all filters and oil once a year. I ran it a month ago and the fuel lift pump was starting to work intermittently, worked sometimes when starting and other times not at all. Ran fine though a bit down on power without the lift pump but I got the needed road work done. Parked it for a month with intentions of replacing the pump and finally add an inline filter. Started the tractor a week ago to move a trailer and it started and ran as usual.

Went to start it a couple days ago, started right up, but wouldn't accelerate past 1000 rpm even after warming up.

I figured it would be a good time to replace the pump and add the inline filter. Bought the NAPA 10-12 gpm pump that has been mentioned here and a NAPA inline filter. Built a new bracket for the pump, mounted it all and started the tractor. After a short bit of cranking and a little smoke it started right up but still wouldn't get much past idle. Replaced the fuel filter though it didn't look very clogged and there was no sediment in the filter bowl. Turned over twice and started right up but same problem. Pulled the fuel line to the injector pump and had a good flow out of the line. At this point I am stumped.

The injector pump has never been off the tractor. The idle is normal, smooth, and no smoke, as it has always been - it just doesn't respond to the throttle. All the throttle cables are hooked up' properly no loose hoses I can see, no leaks, but it just wont run past idle - nothing happens when you advance the throttle as if they were disconnected. I haven't looked at the air intake to see if something took up residence there yet. The only thing I have found is a small diamond shaped cover plate on the center outboard side of the injection pump, that is missing a screw but the plate is on tight by the gasket sealant. The screw looks to be like 3mm dia or so, around 1/8". I will hunt around for a replacement to see if that helps.

I have looked through all the troubleshooting diagrams and they all address either no or rough start, rough idle, or low power but nothing on this issue.

I am stumped. Any diesel experts out there?

Thanks in advance.

Steve in Central TX

 

[LincTex]

It sounds like it could still have air trapped somewhere. (best case scenario)

Worst case scenario is something got damaged in the pump from having inadequate fuel flow while doing road work.

How close to Waco are you?

 

[stevewm]

It sounds like it could still have air trapped somewhere. (best case scenario)

Worst case scenario is something got damaged in the pump from having inadequate fuel flow while doing road work.

How close to Waco are you?

Thanks for your thoughts. I'm about 100 miles from Waco and trailering it up there is an option. I have had four lift pump failures over 11 years and unless the damage is cumulative I am having doubts that it was damaged from operating with an inoperative lift pump as it still gets about 80% power which is the first indication to me the lift pump is hosed. It also starts a little hard and of course the pump click can't he heard when the ignition is on. Also it starts perfectly when I crank it with no hesitation, smoke, or roughness at idle and I am thinking it wouldn't do that with air still the system. It was acting exactly the same way it was before I opened up the fuel line to replace lift pump and filters. Seems like it would accelerate at least little or run rough if there were any air but it is just stuck at idle and moving the throttle does not change the rpm at all. In thinking back, the tractor also ran normally a little over a week ago when I moved it 100 yards to drop the grader blade. The diagram for the Bosch VE injector pump shows a plunger that slides in and out as the throttle is advanced, opening up a passageway that lets more fuel to the injectors. I am wondering if that is stuck or the if the internal linkage is broken. In which case I am screwed!

 

[LincTex]

The diagram for the Bosch VE injector pump shows a plunger that slides in and out as the throttle is advanced, opening up a passageway that lets more fuel to the injectors. I am wondering if that is stuck or the if the internal linkage is broken.

The plunger is moved by the governor.... not the throttle lever. The throttle lever controls tension on the governor spring.

In which case I am screwed!

Not necessarily - if it's made the same as the one on the early Dodge trucks, you can pull the top off of the pump off and access the governor spring without any real issues.

It's a little tricky, but not impossible.... not easy for someone with poor coordination or "dumb thumbs"....

It is, however - the CHEAPEST troubleshooting solution I can come up with (verifying the governor operation)

Look up "Bosch VE 366 spring replacement" for a good "how to" article - - -

Den - Dodge CTD 1st Gen - VE Governor Spring Install

Bosch VE Fuel Pump Installation - Cummins Diesel Engine - Diesel Power Magazine

VE44 '366' spring installation - 1st gen - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram

VE pump Govenor spring selection help?

 

[LincTex]

Also - -

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/century-branson/75991-fuel-filter-shut-off-valve.html

I had the O-ring go bad in this little fuel valve on my 1980 John Deere (Yanmar) 850, and gave similar problems to what you are experiencing.

Good luck!

 

[LincTex]

SteveWM, any updates?

 

[52wej]

I also had the same thing happen to my 2004 CENTURY 2535 and discovered that the fuel shut off valve lever was not completely opening the fuel valve. I had to remove the lever and open the valve with a screwdriver. It has been open even since then and I just have to spend more time bleeding lines when I change the fuel filter. Check to be sure the valve is fully open if you have not repaired the problem yet. W Jones

 

[LincTex]

I also had the same thing happen to my 2004 CENTURY 2535 and discovered that the fuel shut off valve lever was not completely opening the fuel valve. I had to remove the lever and open the valve with a screwdriver. It has been open even since then and I just have to spend more time bleeding lines when I change the fuel filter.

W Jones, I had the little o-ring around the fuel shut-off valve go bad on my Yanmar/John Deere, and it was letting air in the fuel causing the same problem. It wasn't leaking fuel. You couldn't tell it was happening by looking at the fuel bowl. It was a mystery that stumped me for months!

(Still...... the paper wasp nest in the intake manifold of my '49 Farmall C was still the biggest mystery I've ever solved!)

 

[52wej]

Linc, Got to give the wasps credit for being creative.

When I had my problem the tractor would run at full throttle for a couple of minutes then die back to an idle. Even though the fuel shut off valve lever was in the full on position it had not actually opened the valve but partially. Once adjusted with a screwdriver I have had no further problems, but the shut off lever is worthless now. Willie Jones.