Air conditioner not working for E-42
- Thread starter Maysgpa
- Start date
- Views: 26495
melli
Member
I know something, I think...just nothing to do with E-42 AC unit...
I had my AC unit (331) stop working this spring...got a recharge kit with gauge. Tightened all hose lines (one seemed a tad loose). Refilled, and was cool again....easy peasy. Mine wasn't dead empty, so I suspect just the hose fitting was leaking....
Will see next year...won't need AC until next year if this friggin rain keeps up...
I have enough refrigerant, that is good?but still no cold?.
I know something, I think?ust nothing to do with E-42 AC unit?)
I had my AC unit (331) stop working this spring...got a recharge kit with gauge. Tightened all hose lines (one seemed a tad loose). Refilled, and was cool again....easy peasy. Mine wasn't dead empty, so I suspect just the hose fitting was leaking....
Will see next year...won't need AC until next year if this friggin rain keeps up...
melli
Member
You checked the pressure and all is good? Then, I would look at fuse box...on mine, I could swap relay fuses of the same amperage (I think that is what they are) to check a particular circuit. Making sure electrical lines to pump are good...
Can you hear it cycling...the pump. It lowers the RPM of my machine just a tad when compressor kicks in at idle. Plus, make sure belt is tight...
CCWKen
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Messages
- 1,199
- Location
- South Texas, USA
- Tractor
- Ford-3910, JD-420C, Kenbota-Custom, IH-2606
Too much refrigerant is just as bad as not enough refrigerant. How did you check the refrigerant? With gauges? And what were the high side/low side pressures at about 1000 rpm? Does your tractor have a fan in front of the condenser?
It might have too much refrigerant in it. I have a friend who loaned me a gauge. I'll have to check the pressure. It worked fine, hasn't been used much, and then it just quit?he heater works.
CCWKen
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Messages
- 1,199
- Location
- South Texas, USA
- Tractor
- Ford-3910, JD-420C, Kenbota-Custom, IH-2606
It's tough to diagnose from here unless you answer all the previous questions. :confused3:
As I understand it, your AC blower fan works but just not cold? Or is it the blower fan not working but the evaporator is cold? Or nothing works? Why do you keep checking the electrical?
As I understand it, your AC blower fan works but just not cold? Or is it the blower fan not working but the evaporator is cold? Or nothing works? Why do you keep checking the electrical?
melli
Member
Why would it have too much refrigerant in it? lol
You didn't use a gauge?
Pretty easy to diagnose, with a gauge...they sell them with refrigerant in a kit for $50.
Some even have oil check, dye etc...
Like I said, first, you can hear compressor kick in at idle when you turn AC switch on.
If you hear a drop in RPM, change in load on engine, you know the compressor is working...if it cycles on and off, that is usually a sign of too little refrigerant.
Too much refrigerant...idk...some or all AC systems have relief valves for those who overdo it...
Yes, the blower fan runs just fine. the light comes on for the AC switch, all filters are clean, fuses are good?ccording to the gauge the freon is slightly overcharged, but it came that way. I don't have the proper gauges. I have an R34 A gauge. Does the machine need to be running with AC on?
I don't know much about my machine?t only has less than 200 hrs.
Thanks
CCWKen
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Messages
- 1,199
- Location
- South Texas, USA
- Tractor
- Ford-3910, JD-420C, Kenbota-Custom, IH-2606
The charge kits with a gauge on the can are worthless for diagnosing a system problem. They only show the low side pressure.
The relief valves are there to save the compressor and usually release pretty high--Around 450psi or so. It's pretty obvious when they pop. You can have too much refrigerant and be well below 450psi on the high side. But don't count on all systems having a relief valve. Newer systems have a binary switch to control high and low pressure. (No relief valve.) The whole idea now days is to NOT release refrigerant to the atmosphere.
Everything is speculation until all the questions are answered. So far, we don't even know if the compressor is cycling or the fan(s) are working. :confused3:
The relief valves are there to save the compressor and usually release pretty high--Around 450psi or so. It's pretty obvious when they pop. You can have too much refrigerant and be well below 450psi on the high side. But don't count on all systems having a relief valve. Newer systems have a binary switch to control high and low pressure. (No relief valve.) The whole idea now days is to NOT release refrigerant to the atmosphere.
Everything is speculation until all the questions are answered. So far, we don't even know if the compressor is cycling or the fan(s) are working. :confused3:
CCWKen
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Messages
- 1,199
- Location
- South Texas, USA
- Tractor
- Ford-3910, JD-420C, Kenbota-Custom, IH-2606
Yes, the engine needs to be running and the compressor operational. Best to just take into the shop. They have the proper tools to diagnose and repair the problem. It may just be the cycling switch but with it over charged, the refrigerant will need to be recovered, the system evacuated, checked for leaks and recharged.
CCWKen
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Messages
- 1,199
- Location
- South Texas, USA
- Tractor
- Ford-3910, JD-420C, Kenbota-Custom, IH-2606
By the way, I hope you didn't inject any of that "super cool", "freeze", fix all crap. If the shop tests the refrigerant and finds it non-compliant, they could charge you a surcharge for recovery. Sometimes as high as $150 since it has to be recovered to its own tank to keep from contaminating recyclable refrigerant.
melli
Member
You mean a R-134A gauge? That should work (usually has two colors (like blue and red) on dial showing low and high side ranges). What was it reading...low side has a plastic cap on Schrader valve with L on cap, high side has a cap with H on cap.
Post a pic of your gauge and hose attached to it.
Yes, engine has to be on for AC to work...pump not pumping, no AC.
Here is a wiki and other instructive...
How to Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car: 12 Steps
Recharging Your Car's Air Conditioner
melli
Member
Yeah, I heard down south (USA) has been environmentalists when it comes to refrigerant gases...up here, not so much....lol
Releasing R-12 into atmosphere is a bad thing, but his machine probably has R-134A or R-12A, both of which are not that bad in the grand scheme of things (coal powerplants or gas field flaring would be at the top of my list). Neither eats the Ozone. Although, their global warming potential has resulted in the Eurozone banning them in the future.
Heck, they even use those gases, for computer canned dusters, airsoft propellants and in inhalers....
Odd, how our big box store up here carries R-12A for recharging, yet have a gauge with R-134A on it...
Although, these gauges are cheap, they do show low and high side.
RED TEK A/C Refrigerant Recharge Kit | Canadian Tire
Here is a blurb on R-12A
RED TEK - 12a Refrigerant
melroebobcat
Bronze Member
i feel like receiver dryers go bad in some equipment , always something to check for leaks . this is just a general statement not a ac guy here...anything else
