Kubota Noise and Tippiness

[TripleR]

Sure, I understand you can work around characteristics of any brand to varying degrees. But who makes it is extremely relevant when the manufacturer fails to provide any degree of width adjustment for the rear wheels, namely Kubota. They are notorious in that regard. The make-do solution is wheel spacers that amount to a kludge to allow one to set the rear wheels further apart and cost hundreds of dollars. Yes, who makes it does matter in terms of the features on the tractor from the factory.

Still have to disagree, it is more about model and configuration than manufacturer. My Kubota L5740 and M8540 are full adjustable and very stable. I'm not brand blind as I've bought different brands and like and dislike some models in one or another brand. The last tractor I bought was a Deere and my brother's was a Kioti.

 

[dchemphill1]

I had the tippy feeling at first with my L3901. Once I filled the Ag wheels which added over 500lbs to the tractor it is so much more solid and I have not moved the tires out. Hope to do that soon. Of course I should have done that before filling them. As for the whiny noise I don't really notice as I had an old 4 speed Ford tractor. I just really love having the HST for operating tractor. Hated the constant shifting while operating loader.

 

[MHarryE]

If you try the Massey and find the noise acceptable, and if the dealer will make the swap, I'd go for it. Hydros whine - high pressure oil and sharp edges. Can differ between different identical tractors, and will vary between manufacturers. The frequency can affect some worse than others. Tippiness is a matter of physics and others have made the usual recommendations. Do you have any idea why the Bobcat is less tippy? Lower CG, wider wheel tread?

 

[JWR]

I had the tippy feeling at first with my L3901. Once I filled the Ag wheels which added over 500lbs to the tractor it is so much more solid and I have not moved the tires out. Hope to do that soon. Of course I should have done that before filling them. As for the whiny noise I don't really notice as I had an old 4 speed Ford tractor. I just really love having the HST for operating tractor. Hated the constant shifting while operating loader.

Adding weight certainly makes the tractor feel "more solid" and of course affects traction a lot. However, fluid in the tires has only a small % effect in lowering the c.g. Yes it helps a little and any lowering of the c.g., even slightly, is good for anti-tipping. Getting those wheels further apart is by far the most effective means to make it harder to tip over. In truth, what anyone wants in that regard is not an absolute tip over prevention but rather a better margin of comfort -- the substantiated feeling that you are operating a safer machine and in better control on the steepness of ground you have to work.

 

[sixdogs]

Kubotas just need front end as well as rear wheel weights and then they are fine for all but severe slope applications. Yes, Many Deeres are heavier but some are not. I don't care for fluid filled rears because it rots the wheels and is non-forgiving if at some point you don't need the weight or need less of it. Cast is no problem to adjust.

For those who say things like washer fluid won't rust, I have posted pictures to show the rust. Plus it's a hassle to get rid of the fluid. As well, tractors with fluid filled tires usually sell for less at auction while those with cast weights sell for more. Weights usually resell for nearly or the same as what you paid for them.

I will admit that filled tires feel a little better than cast weights and I don't want to pay that price but that's just my personal opinion. And, like other opinions, everyone has one. Cast iron weights are your friend. Just my two cents here so relax if you like fluid.

 

[JWR]

six dogs is right: fluid will eventually rust through steel wheels. Our 1954 MH Pacer wheels rusted through in the 1990's, around 40 years. I agree to replace my wheels every 40 years but his point is well taken. I wonder if one can fluid fill tubes ? Good or bad idea ? By the way, it is a small factor but adding cast weights on the wheels does lower the c.g. too.

 

[adventure bob]

When I got my 6060 I thought it was really tippy. Over time I have learned that some of that was my fear of tipping. I now trust the tractor way more than I originally did and log on ground that I wouldn't have driven on before. How did I figure out where to be scared? By almost throwing it over. I've had to slam the loader to the ground several times to keep it on both back wheels. Prbly not the best way to learn, but it is an effective teaching point.
I filled my tires and it feels way more stable. As far as rusting out, use Rimguard. Not plugging them, but its non corrosive and ph neutral. The prime reason I used it was that if I puncture a tire I don't have a toxic dead space from sodium chloride.
Bottom line is that tractors this size and category are all going to have about the same CG, **** you physics!. Nature of the beast. If you want to feel rock solid on the ground, and your not doing ground implements, maybe the bobcats the right tool for you.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Kubotas just need front end as well as rear wheel weights and then they are fine for all but severe slope applications. Yes, Many Deeres are heavier but some are not. I don't care for fluid filled rears because it rots the wheels and is non-forgiving if at some point you don't need the weight or need less of it. Cast is no problem to adjust.

For those who say things like washer fluid won't rust, I have posted pictures to show the rust. Plus it's a hassle to get rid of the fluid. As well, tractors with fluid filled tires usually sell for less at auction while those with cast weights sell for more. Weights usually resell for nearly or the same as what you paid for them.

I will admit that filled tires feel a little better than cast weights and I don't want to pay that price but that's just my personal opinion. And, like other opinions, everyone has one. Cast iron weights are your friend. Just my two cents here so relax if you like fluid.

put tubes in them.

six dogs is right: fluid will eventually rust through steel wheels. Our 1954 MH Pacer wheels rusted through in the 1990's, around 40 years. I agree to replace my wheels every 40 years but his point is well taken. I wonder if one can fluid fill tubes ? Good or bad idea ? By the way, it is a small factor but adding cast weights on the wheels does lower the c.g. too.

My 1952 Ferguson had the original wheels when I got it over 25 years ago. I used it until last year when I gave it to my son. Before he got it I replaced the well worn out and tubed, cracked calcium filled tires. There was nothing more that a few spots of surface rust on the inside of the rims, no more than I would expect if they weren't calcium filled. Sixty four years old and still going strong.

 

[LD1]

I though my L3400 had a pretty generous amount of wheel spacing options on the rear.

Hub can be mounted dish in or out thats two options.

Rim can be mounted two different ways on the hub

And the tabs on the rims are offset, so you can swap sides and get two more options.

2x2x2 = 8 different ways to mount. I think as narrow as 50" or so....out to 63" or so wide.

I dont think there is a huge stability difference between brands, unless specifically purchasing a LCG machine.

How are you operating the tractor? If you have the front loader on, and nothing on the rear......or rear implement in use (like a blade or mower on the ground that dont add much weight to the rear).....I think that could be your issue. The kubotas are real light in the rear with a loader on and no ballast. That puts very little weight on the rear axle, and alot of weight on the front axle that is free to pivot and roll you over.

As others have suggested, loading the tires is a great place to start. Beet-juice...AKA rimguard is non-corrosive and heavy.

 

[sixdogs]

put tubes in them.



My 1952 Ferguson had the original wheels when I got it over 25 years ago. I used it until last year when I gave it to my son. Before he got it I replaced the well worn out and tubed, cracked calcium filled tires. There was nothing more that a few spots of surface rust on the inside of the rims, no more than I would expect if they weren't calcium filled. Sixty four years old and still going strong.

All of the rusted wheels I have seen that were filled were tubed. I've seen maybe 8 to ten sets and every one was rotten rusty when dissembled even though they looked fine outside. I've seen both calcium and washer fluid filled. I've never seen beet juice but the tire guy says he saw one tubeless and it looked like the wheel was sandblasted.

This is why I believe in cast weights. It just doesn't work--for me--for the reasons stated. Even if they didn't rust, the all or none nature of the weight doesn't work for ag or utility purposes. if I lived on the slopes in West Virginia I would probably feel different.

Your Ferguson was a rare bird to have calcium that long and not rust. Great tractor too.


Here's where you can buy knock-off weights.
Wheel Weights - Lonestar Weights