Hyd cylinder parts

[handirifle]

On my splitter, the end plate, the one the piston goes through, has developed a leak. It started with a pin hole in the top section, that leaked occasionally, but now it seems to leak constantly when in use.

Can I get just the new end plate or do I have to get a whole new cylinder? I hope just the plate. I do not currently have numbers from the cylinder to reference. I think the main cyl is 5" with a 1.25" piston, but that's a guess.

It seems like all my leaks showed up at once. I also have a hose, and what looks like the shaft seal on my pump. Good grief, when it rains it pours. I am hoping to get all my splitting done before tearing it down for repairs. I am assuming the repairs will take me some time, and we have a couple long RV trips planned for the fall, and want my wood split before we travel. I have MOST of what NEEDS to be split, but there is more to do.

 

[Leejohn]

Is it a tie rod cyl? You are calling the rod a piston. The piston would be just under the size of the barrel.

 

[handirifle]

What is a tie rod piston? I'm sure it's the rod diameter that is 1.25" Cannot see the piston, I assume that is inside the cylinder.

 

[Leejohn]

quote; What is a tie rod piston. I don't know! I said tie rod cyl. A tie rod cyl is that it has 4 long rods that hold the end caps on. The barrel and end caps have flat o rings to keep them from leaking and that might be what's wrong with yours.

 

[handirifle]

OK sorry I totally blew that one. Yes it IS a tie rod cylinder. It has the long bolts. No, that is not what is leaking. There is a tiny pin hole at the top of the 1/2" thick end plate that the rod goes through. I can see fluid squirt up about 1/4" if I do not release the lever when the rod is all the way in the cylinder. At least is used to be that way. It's getting worse.

 

[Leejohn]

Well I thought I had a place booked mark that sold the end cap and other parts for them. I looked at all the info I have and can't find it. Take it to a hyd repair shop and maybe they can fill the hole by brazing it.

 

[handirifle]

Here's where it's leaking

It's (I think) a 4" bore and 1.5" rod. Measured the rod, cylinder outside dim is 4.5".

 

[BKBoiss]

For some reason my phone won't load your picture but depending where it is leaking I would look into maybe drilling the hole out to say 1/8 and down 3/16 or 1/4 inch then hit it with the mig welder. I say mig because I "THINK" (someone who knows correct me if I wrong) it would be faster and allow less heat into the end cap than brazing and possibly damage the seal.

 

[handirifle]

That's exactly what I was wondering about doing. I HOPE that will fix it cause a new cylinder is pricey.

 

[Leejohn]

Brazing it would have to come apart, that's not hard at all. The end caps are cast iron. I was thinking with brazing that you might be able to fill the hole all the way up.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Here's where it's leaking

It's (I think) a 4" bore and 1.5" rod. Measured the rod, cylinder outside dim is 4.5".

It sounds like porosity in the casting. Loctite wicking threadlocker is good for penetrating and sealing this type of thing. -- Non invasive.

Loctite(R) 29 Wicking Grade Threadlocker Stop Leakages & Saves $1, in Lost Production - Henkel

 

[handirifle]

How would I go about getting that into the hole. It's VERY tiny.

 

[handirifle]

That system was only pressurized to 6 psi. Not sure how that would hold up under a splitters pressure.

 

[SPYDERLK]

How would I go about getting that into the hole. It's VERY tiny.

That system was only pressurized to 6 psi. Not sure how that would hold up under a splitters pressure.

Its a very thin fluid and made to flow into small places by capillary action. High pressure is not much of an issue with very small holes because the hole has such a small area. -- Like a .01" hole would have an area less than .01 x .01 = .0001sq in. At 3000 psi hyd pressure thats just .0001 x 3000 = 0.3 pounds force acting on the loctite plug.

Ill post a little later with application thoughts. .... I have to go see about one of our tractors overheated in the hayfield.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Its a very thin fluid and made to flow into small places by capillary action. High pressure is not much of an issue with very small holes because the hole has such a small area. -- Like a .01" hole would have an area less than .01 x .01 = .0001sq in. At 3000 psi hyd pressure thats just .0001 x 3000 = 0.3 pounds force acting on the loctite plug.

Ill post a little later with application thoughts. .... I have to go see about one of our tractors overheated in the hayfield.

Im back. ... Does your splitter have a detent for the control valve on return stroke so you dont have to hold it. It kicks off automatically at the end of return??

 

[handirifle]

No, I have to hold it both ways. I try not to run it against the cylinder but sometimes it does.

 

[handirifle]

spiderlk

SO let me make sure I understand you. I understand the procedure, except the last part of letting the lever go. In my case, when the rod is all the way back IN the cylinder, it will squirt fluid. So based on that, I assume that's when it's most under pressure, and when fully extended it's under the least pressure.

So according to your instructions, are you saying the motor should be running and it extended while soaking in the acetone?

Thanks

 

[SPYDERLK]

spiderlk

SO let me make sure I understand you. I understand the procedure, except the last part of letting the lever go. In my case, when the rod is all the way back IN the cylinder, it will squirt fluid. So based on that, I assume that's when it's most under pressure, and when fully extended it's under the least pressure.

So according to your instructions, are you saying the motor should be running and it extended while soaking in the acetone?

Thanks

Sorry I wasnt clear. ... No, the splitter should be warmed but off and cooling as you work to clean and seal it. - To warm you can park it out in the sun for awhile -- then you should start it and cycle it a few times so any air in the rod end is flushed. End with the cyl retracted as near the stop as you dare and cut off the splitter. Now, I said to tie the lever in the retract position. That was wrong. Leave the lever in the neutral/center position with splitter off and cooling as you work. ... So ~ repeated below with correction:

,,,,,,,, We can get the cyl to suck by starting out with the hyd fluid warm and sealing it into the cyl using the valve. The warming can be done by working the splitter for awhile, or just setting it out in the hot sun for a couple hours. Then, cycle the splitter and retract the rod but not quite to the stop. Cut the splitter off and leave the control lever centered. The large amt of fluid on the rod end will contract but wont be able to pull any oil through the centered valve so there will be suction on the pinhole as it cools. ... While cooling in the shade you use a benign solvent on the outside of the hole - just a couple drops and let it be sucked through to the inside to de oil the hole. [[Use pure alcohol or acetone, NOT Brake Clean because it leaves a bad and dangerous/poison residue that can only be flashed off with a lot of heat.]] A hardware store should have the acetone.

Due to all the warm mass the cooling will be gradual and give you a good hour or so of fluid contraction, so you wont have to hurry. -- Apply a drop of acetone, wait 5 minutes then apply intense short term heat to the endcap. If using a propane torch use near, NOT on, the pinhole because water is a byproduct of combustion and youre not going to heat enough to boil it off. Just localized hot to the touch - shield the seal from any touch of flame.

... Repeat the solvent rinse a few minutes later if you want. The last one especially should be flashed similarly with a couple localized heat cycles as the cyl as a whole cools. -- This should leave the hole pretty clean and dry. - The cyl is still ~ lukewarm, cooling slowly and "inhaling". ... Soon, at your leisure, apply a drop of wicking Loctite to the pinhole; If it just sits there leave it alone, If it goes right in wait a few minutes and apply another drop. Repeat once or twice until it is fully cool. About 1hr later apply one last drop and move the control valve lever to either the advance or retract position. Either will release any vacuum in the system. No bubbles coming out of the pinhole is a good sign.

... Let it sit overnight and then soak all day in the sun with the valve lever tied either way off center [to prevent pressure build up from the expanding oil] to get a good cure on the Loctite before use.

I have deleted the original post. That valve info was wrong and its best not left here as a potential time bomb.

 

[handirifle]

SPYDERLK

Thanks, that made a lot more sense.

 

[LD1]

Never thought of trying loctite. That should be interesting.

But I would NOT attempt to weld it in any fashion without disassembly. Got a rod gland seal right there as well as an o-ring where the barrel seals against the cap.

Perhaps if the loctite dont work, can drill a hole and tap it, then use a small pipe plug/thread sealant?