line ??

[love4god]

i going to use 3/8" brake line for some steel lines, my ? is
where do i get flare end nuts?? i no there are -6 ,, im just not sure what to get??
thanks for any help,, godbless

 

[kennyd]

Brake line is to soft, it's not rated for the pressure.

 

[love4god]

there is a old post on here a guy has used it for years, the line i have is
3/8'' OD X 25FT ZINC COATED STEEL COIL BRAKE LINE TUBING
Double wall (.028) Zinc plated brake lines.
16,000psi burst pressure, with double annealed seams.

thanks godbless

 

[TMGT]

Local hyd shop or I buy a lot of stuff from ducounthydraulichose.com, surplus center also has them etc.

 

[CCWKen]

Brake line is to soft, it's not rated for the pressure.

What you think stops your car? Vehicle brake systems typically see 4-5k psi. If it's not rated, we'd all be in trouble. :confused2:

 

[love4god]

thanks,godbless

 

[TMGT]

If your attaching to JIC fittings you'll need these:

319-06 | 3/8" JIC Tube Sleeve

And these:

318-06 | 3/8" JIC Tube Nut

 

[CCWKen]

If you want to stay with a standard, use JIC hydraulic fitting for the tubing. These come in a multitude of forms and are common. The drawback is that it's a 37 degree flair and requires a special tool. Most common flair tools are 45 degree. And be sure to double flair the tubing. Double flairs require adaptors for the flaring tool so be sure the tool you get will do double flairs.

Might be cheaper to have a hydraulic shop install the flair nuts on the tubing you make.

 

[TMGT]

Actually if you leave the 45* double flare a little "lose" they will conform to the 37* JIC fitting, been doing this with brake line for awhile now. If you decide to use DOM tube I would use the proper 37* single flare. The 37* tool can be had for about 30-50 from places like Jegs or speedway motors, I don't believe they include the dies for double flares but if you have a 45* with them you can use them with the 37*.

 

[kennyd]

What you think stops your car? Vehicle brake systems typically see 4-5k psi. If it's not rated, we'd all be in trouble. :confused2:

Sorry, that is incorrect. Average is 1000-1500 for automobile braking systems, and they do not see the shocks/spikes is pressure that a tractors hydraulic system does.

 

[CCWKen]

Sorry, that is incorrect. Average is 1000-1500 for automobile braking systems, and they do not see the shocks/spikes is pressure that a tractors hydraulic system does.

In "average" braking, that would be true. Typically, it's 100 bar or about 1450psi for power assisted brakes. In emergency or panic stops, initial fluid pressure can be up to four times that! The design of the braking system components takes that into consideration. Including the brake lines.

Added:
This discussion is mute. The OP said he has brake line rated to 16k psi burst which is the common 4x safety margin for designs.

 

[kennyd]

In "average" braking, that would be true. Typically, it's 100 bar or about 1450psi for power assisted brakes. In emergency or panic stops, initial fluid pressure can be up to four times that! The design of the braking system components takes that into consideration. Including the brake lines.

Added:
This discussion is mute. The OP said he has brake line rated to 16k psi burst which is the common 4x safety margin for designs.

I just looked up a typical brake hose, in this case for my old 92 F250 7.3L IDI truck, they are "tested" to to 4000psi, so they are obviously expecting the average working pressure to be much lower.




Yes, the OP did say what his tubing is spec'ed at-and that does sound usable in this case, but the average steel brake lines are NOT rated to what he posted-hence my first reply.

Here is a Dorman "kit" for a GM truck, again notice the rating at 4000psi:
Dorman Products - 919-116

Here is a few brake line gauge kits, notice the pressure range on them:
Brake Pressure Tester Gauges : Brake Pressure Gauges : Racing Brake Pressure Tester Gauges

Brake Hydraulic System Pressure Bleeder Pressure Gauges - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

Auto Meter 4426 | Buy Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Gauges at JEGS

Fact are facts sir, your just not going to generate that high of pressure in an automotive braking system.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Uniquely just the other day I was discussing flaring Hyd tube with my local hydraulic shop and using brake line material. He stated they use a 45 degree flaring tool due to the very costly 37 degree tool. He stated he would not flare tube for someone unless they had hydraulic rated tubing or bought the tube from him due to liability. Brake tube is seamed whereas hydraulic is extruded seamless. I asked about double flare as I have the tool for 45 degree. He stated double flare is not required or recommended for hydraulic work. He said doing a regular flare is hard enough w/o trying to double. Tube wall thickness is much thicker.

During my pipefitter days I did a lot of industrial hydraulic work. We always used compression type fittings rated for the system pressure. 10,000 PSI was not uncommon. They are critical to get on properly and torqued down but can be done with standard wrenches. Learning curve is pretty short. It is easy to screw up a flare when inexperienced; we used a lot of flares on refrigeration so we got pretty good at it.

The OP sounds like a novice at this so I highly recommend he do some practice joints before tackling the ones that count. Boo Boos can eat a lot tubing up fast.

Ron

 

[TMGT]

Yup, double flare on the heavier .040+ DOM isn't going to happen.
Not sure why everyone is talking about expensive tools for 37* flares though, cheap tools are about 50 and nice hyd. tools are about 250-500 depending on what dies it comes with. 45 and 37 dies for the hyd. tools cost the same.

 

[love4god]

i have flared and done plenty of lines, i just didnt no what ends to use,
i have a good 45* flare tool i dont see any problem with using ,it as others have said
the tube is soft enough to form to it , with the double flare,the DOM is nice , if i had the cash i would get it,
but,,ill have to make do with what i have, thank you all for your help,godbless