Gc 1720 50 hr service DIY

[Ooklaa]

ok so I decided to do the 50 hr service myself, id like to first say thank you to all of you for helping me with question I have had and I also want to say thank you to Jon at www.Goffsequipent.com in the service department for giving me a head up on a sale they had a while back and I took advantage of it by doubling up on filters and stuff.

so now for what I did. the hydro was the best looking fluid out of all of them. Many have said that it doesn't need changing at 50 hrs I have no idea what to say on that as I'm learning as I go. I went to autozone and bought a nice long oil funnel cause I purchased the big 5 gallon bucket of hydro fluid and its way eaiser to pour it in with this type of funnel. I posted pictures of where everything is. from their its pretty much taking things off putting hem back on and filling up the oil levels appropriately.

the front diff fluid looked really bad not sure why. if its the same fluid as the the tranny when it came from the factory then man the front diff def needs changing more often. it was also the hardest fill out of all of them, next time I will go get a better funnel just for the front diff. also make sure you open up the breather valves on top when filling it up. fill it up slow or it will pour out when I saw it getting up to the top I closed one hole poured in more slowly filled more then closed the other. engine oil was good but I changed it anyway. I put in the oil that massey recommends for warranty purposes. dealer told me just in case something breaks they can use it as a excuse to void warranty. I wanted to post a step by step process but I got really busy with my restaurant, catering parties just started popping up this month and last.

please feel free to add you own input and recommendations.

ps I forgot to take pictures of all the grease points but I will and update.

 

[ray66v]

U.S. Federal law says, a manufacturer cannot void your warranty for not using a specific brand of oil. Nor have they ever tried, as long as I have been here.

If there is a failure that requires your warranty, it will me a major defect, as in something literally breaking inside. And, MF will likely already know about it. Because, yours won't be the first. There will be no debate about fluids. Parts only break in a new unit, because they are defective. And, this is extremely rare.

Permatran is very good oil, and if people want to use it that's fine. But, using fear mongering, to sell product, is a low life tactic.

 

[SteveM70]

When I told my dealer I needed the stuff to do the 50 hour service he sent me home with Shell Rotella oil and Shell fluid. Works for me.

I do think I will switch to synthetic at my next oil change if for no other reason than to help with cold starts in the winter. It's June and I still need 5 seconds on the glow plugs for a quick reliable start so I'm a little worried about true cold weather starting.

 

[AxleHub]

I switched to synthetic on the engine oil side at 40 hours (right before winter came to WI).

Ookla I'm curious about 1 of your pictures. It shows you holding some type of narrow tube type filter ?? What is that ?

 

[Snobdds]

That's the suction filter for the hydraulic sump. The service manual says it needs to be cleaned at 50 hours.

 

[AxleHub]

That's the suction filter for the hydraulic sump. The service manual says it needs to be cleaned at 50 hours.

Is that where they talk about being careful of the "O ring" ?

 

[SteveM70]

Is that where they talk about being careful of the "O ring" ?

Yep. This filter and its location should be described in your owners manual.

 

[Rocko]

I think there are two O rings for that screen. one on each side of the suction pipe....(one usually stays attached on the suction filter or screen.)

 

[SteveM70]

I think there are two O rings for that screen. one on each side of the suction pipe....(one usually stays attached on the suction filter or screen.)

You are correct, two o rings.

 

[ray66v]

When I told my dealer I needed the stuff to do the 50 hour service he sent me home with Shell Rotella oil and Shell fluid. Works for me.

I do think I will switch to synthetic at my next oil change if for no other reason than to help with cold starts in the winter. It's June and I still need 5 seconds on the glow plugs for a quick reliable start so I'm a little worried about true cold weather starting.

Wait! What about the warranty???

Synthetic oil will only help with cold starts, when you get well below zero. At the kind of temps you will normally see, there should be no noticeable difference. Some will insist there are differences. But, the specifications do not bear that out.

That being said, I do have all synthetic oil in my tractor.

I have never had any trouble starting my tractor, even when it has been below zero. It's a matter of learning how to do it.

On mine, a below zero start requires about 30+ seconds of glow plug time. You also have to open the throttle some, when it's very cold. I usually open my throttle about 25%.

If it doesn't start after 5 seconds of cranking, STOP. Further cranking, will only result in a dead battery. Go back to the glow plugs again, and then try cranking again. When you get the hang of it, it will never take more than two tries.

Some people never get it. But it's a matter of figuring out what your tractor needs.

Five seconds in warm weather, for a cold start, is not a problem.

You can always do like most people do, give up, and pay the ransom for the block heater. But, I have not needed it.

 

[ray66v]

What is that ?

If you missed the suction filter, don't worry about it. Just clean it next time.

 

[SteveM70]

Thanks for the advice Ray. I don't want to derail this thread but yes, I need to figure out how to start mine. The manual says, WFO. It started that way but my gut just said, no! It's been reasonably warm since I've had it so idle to 1500 rpm's seem to work equally well for now but like I said above, glow plugs still a necessity even though it has been above 80*F.

 

[Ooklaa]

If you guys dont have the plug in heater for the winter i really would suggest to get it if you use your tractor in the winter., I would clean the suction filter mine had some crap in it, Not a lot but to leave for 250 hrs i would think it would be full of crap or a good amount. If your hyrdo fluid is new just make sure your oil pan is supr clean and reuse the fluid. Or by a new pan for 10 bucks, better then spending 70 on hydro oil and better then leaving the suction filter for another 200 hrs.

 

[SteveM70]

Ookla, do you post on hearth.com?

Axle hub, have you changed your hydraulic fluid yet?

 

[ray66v]

If you guys dont have the plug in heater for the winter i really would suggest to get it if you use your tractor in the winter., I would clean the suction filter mine had some crap in it, Not a lot but to leave for 250 hrs i would think it would be full of crap or a good amount. If your hyrdo fluid is new just make sure your oil pan is supr clean and reuse the fluid. Or by a new pan for 10 bucks, better then spending 70 on hydro oil and better then leaving the suction filter for another 200 hrs.

As I said, in 11 years, I haven't had any trouble staring my tractor without the block heater.

I also disagree, that the screen is going to accumulate all kinds of additional debris. It's a closed system. All that screen does is trap large debris harmlessly, in the sump. Once you remove what was left in there when it was built, which as you saw was in there for 50 hrs, and caused no issues, there won't be any additional large metal until the tractor has been in service long enough for major wear to develop.

If there was enough debris there to block the screen, the hydraulics would not work.

The transmission filter is still going to remove dirt, and normal wear, in terms of fine metal particles, either way.

However, anyone who can't sleep, thinking there may be something sitting there, have at it.

 

[ray66v]

Thanks for the advice Ray. I don't want to derail this thread but yes, I need to figure out how to start mine. The manual says, WFO. It started that way but my gut just said, no! It's been reasonably warm since I've had it so idle to 1500 rpm's seem to work equally well for now but like I said above, glow plugs still a necessity even though it has been above 80*F.

I am not sure I understand what you are saying. But, some glow plug use for a cold start is not out of line, even in warm weather.

Yes, it probably will start fine without glow plugs. But, it will usually start faster with them.

Keep in mind, that the glow plugs don't get very warm, until after the first 5 seconds.

Contrary to the manual, you should not need to open the throttle for starting, in warm weather.

Also keep in mind, a diesel will not warm up, at low idle speed. So, if it's cold, and you want to warm it up, you need to run it at a high idle, or better.

 

[SteveM70]

Mine hasn't started without using glow plugs even though I have tried and it has been warm weather.

Starting at idle to 1500rpm's is in reference to throttle position on start up.

WFO, well let's just say that's in reference to the owners manuals stating to start the tractor at full throttle.

 

[AxleHub]

Ookla, do you post on hearth.com?

Axle hub, have you changed your hydraulic fluid yet?

SteveM70, I've got everything I need to do the maintenance but as yet I haven't done the work on the tractor. Actually because of other issues unrelated to thevtractor . . I haven't used my little red friend since the lMarch snowfall.


And for those starting their units in cold weather . . I had the dealer install the block heater at purchasebtime and it cost $35. I'm baffled why anyone andveveryone wouldn't use a block heater if they luve in any area of sub 32 F degree, much less below 0 F degree weather. Its easy and inexpensive and better for the tractor.

 

[ray66v]

I'm baffled why anyone andveveryone wouldn't use a block heater if they luve in any area of sub 32 F degree, much less below 0 F degree weather. Its easy and inexpensive and better for the tractor.

Don't know why you are baffled. I stated, it starts fine without it. If I was having trouble starting it, I could understand the confusion.

I'm baffled by why everyone thinks, because it's a diesel, it has to have a block heater to start. :confused3:

If you can buy a block heater for one of these for $35, everyone is going to want to know where. Because, MF substantially over charges for them.

Jacks, wants $141.55 for it, and they discount.

 

[Ooklaa]

Ookla, do you post on hearth.com?

Yup that woulb be me. Are you on thier as well?