Stihl 026 hard to pull

   / Stihl 026 hard to pull
  • Thread Starter
#31  
I tried to start it several times last night, each time with at least 12 pulls. I pulled the plug and it was dry each time. I hooked up my vacuum gauge to the impulse line that connects to the carb nipple and fuel flowed easily with very little vacuum.

I did the pressure test on the carb as outlined in the service manual again, where I hook up a pressure gauge to the same carb nipple mentioned above and apply 11psi to see if it bleeds down. It held pressure without bleeding.

I verified spark again with the original plug. I didn't change the plug last night.

I tried starting it with and without the air filter installed. I had previously cleaned the tank vent.

What I've NOT done: Try starting it with starter fluid or gasoline put directly into the cylinder. I've stayed away from the starting fluid option based on its reputation of being not-so-good for engines. I probably ought to do something like that now just to narrow down the possibilities. I've also not checked the ignition switch/wiring to make sure that everything is good there. I suppose that since I have spark, the wiring is not the problem. I do have some question about the settings of the switch. There are four settings for this switch (off, run, semi-choke (after sputter), and cold choke). There does not seem to be a great difference in switch position between the two choke settings. I wonder if the switch is properly getting into the cold choke position.
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull #32  
If your plug is dry after 12 pulls you are not getting fuel to the cylinder.
I would go back and recheck the carburetor and fuel line connections and look for leaks.
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull #33  
No fuel = no start. Don't care what test you've run so far, without fuel delivery to the spark plug it will never start. Don't use ether! EVER. Only gas/mixed with oil to proper ratio.
Get an eyedropper and drop some fuel in the spark hole and see what happens. Start with cold choke, 1st off of off position. If/when it sputters kick to next position up. IF it starts kick up once more to run.
Stop yanking on it- it will not make it start by continually yanking. You need to find out WHY it is not getting fuel delivery. See first if it will start, or attempt to start by doing above details. If it even tries to start you will know it's all about not getting fuel and not about electrical issues, (most likely).
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull
  • Thread Starter
#34  
No fuel = no start. Don't care what test you've run so far, without fuel delivery to the spark plug it will never start. Don't use ether! EVER. Only gas/mixed with oil to proper ratio.
Get an eyedropper and drop some fuel in the spark hole and see what happens. Start with cold choke, 1st off of off position. If/when it sputters kick to next position up. IF it starts kick up once more to run.
Stop yanking on it- it will not make it start by continually yanking. You need to find out WHY it is not getting fuel delivery. See first if it will start, or attempt to start by doing above details. If it even tries to start you will know it's all about not getting fuel and not about electrical issues, (most likely).

Thanks for all of the help and the patience. The testing I did with the vacuum/pressure was to find out why I'm not getting gas. I verified that the fuel can get through the filter and impulse line. The pressure was to see if the carb has leaks. Both of these could cause my problems, I'm thinking. If there are better ways to diagnose it, I'm all for it.

I'll drop some fuel/oil and see what happens. I'm a little confused with the directions for starting selector position. I have OFF-RUN-"CHOKE AFTER SPUTTER"-COLD CHOKE. 1st off of run position in my mind would be RUN rather than choke, which would be 2 or 3 from OFF.
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull #35  
Thanks for all of the help and the patience. The testing I did with the vacuum/pressure was to find out why I'm not getting gas. I verified that the fuel can get through the filter and impulse line. The pressure was to see if the carb has leaks. Both of these could cause my problems, I'm thinking. If there are better ways to diagnose it, I'm all for it.

I'll drop some fuel/oil and see what happens. I'm a little confused with the directions for starting selector position. I have OFF-RUN-"CHOKE AFTER SPUTTER"-COLD CHOKE. 1st off of run position in my mind would be RUN rather than choke, which would be 2 or 3 from OFF.
You are correct. Cold choke/start position is all the way down. After the brief sputter, you move it up one to the half throttle position. Once it starts, you bump the throttle trigger and it moves from half throttle to the idle position.
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull #36  
Thanks for all of the help and the patience. The testing I did with the vacuum/pressure was to find out why I'm not getting gas. I verified that the fuel can get through the filter and impulse line. The pressure was to see if the carb has leaks. Both of these could cause my problems, I'm thinking. If there are better ways to diagnose it, I'm all for it.

I'll drop some fuel/oil and see what happens. I'm a little confused with the directions for starting selector position. I have OFF-RUN-"CHOKE AFTER SPUTTER"-COLD CHOKE. 1st off of run position in my mind would be RUN rather than choke, which would be 2 or 3 from OFF.

Sorry for the confusion; my mind works slowly, if at all at 1:20 am, at best!
I'm so used to the pattern from starting my saws I have trouble visualizing it. Ford 850 is right that once it sputters....
So let's get some sputter to get on track.

PS. I knew why you were running the tests; they don't help figure out if there is fuel delivery or not- you have to step back to square one, then go forward to figure out what is causing the problem, AFTER determining that the problem is NO fuel delivery. Once you verify that, then and only then can you logically trace the WHY.

You're making progress - no fuel delivery is a condition that can then be traced to why....
Few more days or so...;)
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I pulled off the carb last night to soak it in cleaner. I don't know how far to take it down for the soaking. I took off the top and bottom covers, removing two gaskets. I had replaced these gaskets when I 1st started trying to get it running. I assume that the gasket selection was correct, as well as the orientation. I did not use all of the gaskets in the Walbro K10-WAT 904 kit. One of these pictures shows which gaskets I did not use.

Would it be sufficient to soak the carb as far as I have it torn down, or do I need to go further? I have already removed the rubber boot from the adjustment screws shown in these pictures

View attachment 460361
View attachment 460362
View attachment 460358
View attachment 460360
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull #38  
I pulled off the carb last night to soak it in cleaner. I don't know how far to take it down for the soaking. I took off the top and bottom covers, removing two gaskets. I had replaced these gaskets when I 1st started trying to get it running. I assume that the gasket selection was correct, as well as the orientation. I did not use all of the gaskets in the Walbro K10-WAT 904 kit. One of these pictures shows which gaskets I did not use.

Would it be sufficient to soak the carb as far as I have it torn down, or do I need to go further? I have already removed the rubber boot from the adjustment screws shown in these pictures

<snip>

Not sure what answer you're looking for at this point? So you've decided to teardown the carb again? In hopes of what exactly?
 
   / Stihl 026 hard to pull
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I've pulled the carb and disassembled it for recleaning because that seems to be the point that I've narrowed it down to. I have checked the fuel line and filter, visually and with a vacuum pump and see that I should be getting fuel to the carb. I've checked compression, at least with my arm, as well as verified spark. I've pulled the plug after cranking it and detected no fuel on the plug. In my mind, that indicates that operations on both sides of the carb are good, so maybe I didn't get something clean in the carb. I've never cleaned a CS carb before. It looked much simpler than the carbs I've dealt with in other small engines, but maybe that was just me missing something.

Other options are that there is no vacuum getting to the carb to take up fuel when cranking it. I'd guess that would be an engine teardown, and before I go there I want to make sure that I got the simple stuff right. I'm not sure I rebuilt the carb right, so here I am, asking what I'm asking. Specifically, does an acceptable rebuild of the carb typically involve more than only those two diaphams/gaskets that I replaced last time. Yes, there are springs, etc., but I've not usually changed the hardware when I've rebuilt carbs in the past, especially when I see that the diaphragm is stiff, and it usually works out alright. Maybe I was wrong this time. I was hesitant to pull out that screw that held the small metal pieces in the carb, but maybe it was critical that I do that. If so, I'll do it this time.

Anyway, I'm more ignorant than most of you fine folks who've responded to this thread so far, so I'm hoping for guidance, or even better, someone to put their finger on exactly what I'm missing so far, because I'm apparently missing something significant.

Thanks again.
 

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