You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
fried1765
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2015
- Messages
- 10,089
- Tractor
- Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, 8N Ford, Gravely 12 HP "Professional", 48" SCAG Liberty
How do I know if it is calcium chloride solution. Is there a certain smell, taste, or color to it.
Stop the tractor with one of the valve stems near the bottom.
Let a little fluid out on your finger.
If it has a nasty salty taste, the fluid is calcium chloride.
I would be willing to bet that you have calcium chloride (it is old school, and most common)
Do you see ANY signs of rust where the valve stem comes through the rim?
fried1765
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2015
- Messages
- 10,089
- Tractor
- Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, 8N Ford, Gravely 12 HP "Professional", 48" SCAG Liberty
Mag Craft:
My suggestion would be to have the tires de-mounted, and then clean up the inside of the rims.
It is likely that they will need to be sandblasted, and they should then get two coats of two part epoxy paint.
It may not be such a good idea to use the old tubes either. You can buy tubes (on line) very cheaply.
If the rims are badly pitted it might be cost effective to buy new (on line) aftermarket rims. They will cost about $150 each (plus shipping).
The first place rust will usually show up is around the valve stem.
If you don't have any rust there yet, you very likely can still save your rims.
If still solid, your rims will last forever, if you get that **** calcium chloride out of there, (and get rid of the current rust), plus epoxy coat.
I am amazed that some people STILL use calcium chloride.
I believe that most (if not all) new tractor dealers refuse to use it.
Tire stores are happy to sell it though, because they know that in not too many years you will be new rim business for them.
My suggestion would be to have the tires de-mounted, and then clean up the inside of the rims.
It is likely that they will need to be sandblasted, and they should then get two coats of two part epoxy paint.
It may not be such a good idea to use the old tubes either. You can buy tubes (on line) very cheaply.
If the rims are badly pitted it might be cost effective to buy new (on line) aftermarket rims. They will cost about $150 each (plus shipping).
The first place rust will usually show up is around the valve stem.
If you don't have any rust there yet, you very likely can still save your rims.
If still solid, your rims will last forever, if you get that **** calcium chloride out of there, (and get rid of the current rust), plus epoxy coat.
I am amazed that some people STILL use calcium chloride.
I believe that most (if not all) new tractor dealers refuse to use it.
Tire stores are happy to sell it though, because they know that in not too many years you will be new rim business for them.
So I have been giving this some thought. I do not believe I will try and salvage what I have on the tractor as of now. I would be willing to bet the calcium chloride has been in there for quite some time and has already done its damage. I believe what I will do is to look for another pair of rims and then when the time comes switch them over and then fill them with the windshield washer fluid or beet juice.
NC419N
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 29, 2008
- Messages
- 340
- Tractor
- Kubota BX2670 Kioti NX5510C Ford 3000 ford 4500TLB Ford 9N Farmtrac 555DTC New Holland 1720 New Holland 2120 Kubota BX22 Kubota ZD1200
I still wonder why Ford/New Holland stopped building the 2000 thru 4000 series tractors. They were revolutionary and don't get the love that deserve. If I had to keep just one tractor my 3000 would be it lol. It will do you a great job and keep on running for a long time Enjoy
MMagis
Veteran Member
So I have been giving this some thought. I do not believe I will try and salvage what I have on the tractor as of now. I would be willing to bet the calcium chloride has been in there for quite some time and has already done its damage. I believe what I will do is to look for another pair of rims and then when the time comes switch them over and then fill them with the windshield washer fluid or beet juice.
Don’t worry about the calcium. People on the internet love to overthink things and spend other peoples’ money. As long as you don’t have any leaks, you won’t have a bit of problem. The only ones that have problems with calcium are those that ignore leaks for years.There's no reason to look for another set of rims either. If for some reason you have to drain the tires in the future and re-fill, go ahead and fill with windshield washer fluid or beet juice. But don’t waste your time and money fixing something that isn’t broke.
fried1765
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2015
- Messages
- 10,089
- Tractor
- Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, 8N Ford, Gravely 12 HP "Professional", 48" SCAG Liberty
Don’t worry about the calcium. People on the internet love to overthink things and spend other peoples’ money. As long as you don’t have any leaks, you won’t have a bit of problem. The only ones that have problems with calcium are those that ignore leaks for years.There's no reason to look for another set of rims either. If for some reason you have to drain the tires in the future and re-fill, go ahead and fill with windshield washer fluid or beet juice. But don’t waste your time and money fixing something that isn’t broke.
Yup..... that is certainly one way to deal with the issue!
When the rust is obvious, then buy new rims and tubes.
Wait until the house is on fire, THEN go buy an extinguisher.