Assembling Harbor Freight 1720lb trailer

[Garandman]

Please don't clutter up this thread with "I bought an xyz for $$$ and it's better" comments. These kits are not for everyone but can be a great value.

I needed a small trailer to haul lumber, trash, bring snowmobiles in for service, etc. Didn't want to spend much and needed enough length for a snow machine so settled on the HF 1,720 lb trailer kit. The folding model is more popular but I have room to store this and like the higher capacity. It has 12" steel wheels. Paid $279.

One caveat: this kit comes with a certificate of origin. Some states require a state inspection of kits in order to be registered or titled, which would add a cost that might not be worthwhile.

The kit comes in two boxes which weigh a total of around 200 lbs. The HF guys will help you load it in your car. It fit easily in the back of an Outback wagon. One box contains the wheels and small parts: the other contains the frame members and axle and is much heavier.

 

[300UGUY]

Sounds like a pretty good deal. It shows up as $349, which is still a good price.

 

[MFWD]

Hello,
I bought the same kit probably close to 10 years ago. It has been a great trailer. I put 5/4 x 6" pressure treated boards on for the floor. Used metal cutting screws to screw them to the frame members.......drilled a pilot hole for each screw as I went. The one thing I did do that I'm sure most people don't do is that after it was all bolted together and squared up, I welded all the joints. That way the frame is solid and can never shift or move !!! I also bolted on a bunch of d-rings along the sides, front and end for tie down places. Also, I added a few more side lights. The only problem that I have now is that I just bought a XUV 550 Gator and I need a bigger trailer....oh well !!!!!!

MFWD

 

[Garandman]

Here is the box with the frame:

And the wheels and small parts and fasteners.

 

[Mace Canute]

One thing that might be worth checking is the wheel bearings for grease, cleanliness and proper preload. You just never know what you have considering the source.

 

[Garandman]

I was going to get to that. The bearings are packed in a clear preservative, NOT Bearing Grease! The instructions tell you to clean and pack them, but not all take heed.

The front bearing comes right out. I then put the hub in the middle of a wheel to hold it and used a large socket and extension and knocked the rear bearing and seal out the bottom of the hub. Cleaned the excess preservative grease off with Citrus Degreaser and then use brake part cleaner to thoroughly clean the hub and bearings. I packed them by hand while wearing gloves, then cleaned to gloves with some paper towels and brake cleaner to reuse them.

The bearing is 30205 Taper Wheel Bearings, 25mm i.d. x 52mm o. d. x 16.25mm thick. Local parts stores may or may not have them.

The bearing seal is a 52 x 30 x 10.

Some people switch to 1" hubs. They fit the axles (25mm is 0.984") and allow you to use readily available bearings, seals, and caps.

 

[Garandman]

This trailer is assembled as two 4'x4' square sections with a yoke in front. You begin by building the front section (which has a cross member), then the yoke, then the rear section, then bolt the two sections together. You add the supports for the springs and axle, then put on the wheels and hubs and wire it up. It takes most people 4-8 hours.

I used a steel carpenter's square to keep the sections square and that was easy. Also put a socket extension on a cordless drill to run in the nuts.

 

[FredH]

Neighbors Brother bought one of those several years ago here in Oregon , since No Sales tax , ( They live in California ) . They assembled it here , ( Using My tools :confused3: ) and Used it to Haul the 4 wheeler they also purchased here , back home . Neighbor has said they have been using the heck out of it around their new place with clean up , etc... and it is still going strong .

I did pack the bearings for them and greased it up , Was not comfortable letting them use my Lincoln Air gun !!

Fred H

 

[Garandman]

So i have the frame assembled and hubs on. The tires came with 30 psi and max load capacity is at 80 psi so be sure to air them up.

When you knock out the rear bearing seal, be sure to look out for the grease fittings on the back of the hub: I broke them. They were brass: I replaced them with steel ones (6mm, straight).

Wiring it up this morning. I'm adding a wire ground as the powder coating and bolted assembly makes frame grounding spotty.

I'm going to solder and shrink tube everything, but I think I'll use spade connectors for the lights so if I want to switch to LED lights it will be easier. For the amount I'll use it I kept the stock lamps for now.

 

[dfkrug]

I bought one of those HaulMaster trailers last spring. This is the top-of-the-line HF
trailer, and I wanted another trailer smaller than my big dually.

Anyway, I welded mine all up, added a couple of crossmembers and a steel deck. LEDs,
too.

The hardest part: grinding off the powder coating for all the welds.

Note that this trailer shares some parts with the folding, lighter-duty trailer, and so the
middle side joints are weak and should be welded. If you use plywood for the deck,
that is structural, and holds it all together. I use galvanized sheet metal.

The bias-ply trailer tires need to run at at least 75psi (rated 80psi) not to heat up.

Not only are these Chinese units weak on bearing grease, the hub nuts are often
pre-set WAY too tight.

 

[Garandman]

Decided to use the stock tail and running lights in part because I couldn't get a straight answer on LED running lights.

Ran an extra wire for ground. Soldered all the joins and then used shrink wrap over them. I'll be keeping this garaged or covered so the lights should hold up OK.

 

[farm boy00]

Decided to use the stock tail and running lights in part because I couldn't get a straight answer on LED running lights.

Ran an extra wire for ground. Soldered all the joins and then used shrink wrap over them. I'll be keeping this garaged or covered so the lights should hold up OK.

Usually those cheap harbor freight lights are pretty good. We usually always buy them for our work trailers. Have only had problems with the bulbs a few times. Mostly smash them out. Then we bought the led which ate pretty good. Still on the trailer about 2-3 years later. We found the trailer ager it was stolen this spring and they were still on it

 

[dfkrug]

Decided to use the stock tail and running lights in part because I couldn't get a straight answer on LED running lights.

Ran an extra wire for ground. Soldered all the joins and then used shrink wrap over them. I'll be keeping this garaged or covered so the lights should hold up OK.

Here is my finished HaulMaster trailer, with the LED lights I added.

I used self-contained waterproof LED taillights ($32/pair) and LED bulbs for the side lights. They
work great, and draw much less current.

I also soldered all connections and used a ground wire as you did. I do not believe in the
wire splicer-connectors usually seen on OEM units.

Note that I relocated the taillights forward and used a welded-on bracket to support them and
the fenders. The fenders vibrate a LOT if you do not add supports.

 

[CNC Dan]

One thing that might be worth checking is the wheel bearings for grease, cleanliness and proper preload. You just never know what you have considering the source.

I've heard the same thing. The recommendation is to repack the bearings when you get it.

I have also heard that the paint fades and gets chalky.

 

[Garandman]

//I also soldered all connections and used a ground wire as you did. I do not believe in the
wire splicer-connectors usually seen on OEM units.

Note that I relocated the taillights forward and used a welded-on bracket to support them and
the fenders. The fenders vibrate a LOT if you do not add supports.

I agree: those "quick splice" connectors should be called "quick fail" at least if you live near the ocean as we do.

That's a clever fender/light mod. What did you use to cover the trailer?

I've heard the same thing. The recommendation is to repack the bearings when you get it.

I have also heard that the paint fades and gets chalky.

I confirmed at the store: the bearings are packed in a lubricant to prevent corrosion only. The instructions are very clear you should remove the preservative and pack with bearing grease.

This model is powder-coated, and the finish is quite thick. Fading from the sun isn't much of a problem in New England.

 

[GLyford]

Mine is faded...it is also 10 years old.

 

[jack707]

I bought a tow strap from this place I was dragging a tree with it and it BROKE! never again. Some of the tools I buy are ok nothing special most are hand tools and metric sockets.

 

[dfkrug]

That's a clever fender/light mod. What did you use to cover the trailer?

Glad you like it. When you first pull the trailer, you will see how much the
fenders flap up-and-down. Something has to be done about that.

As for the deck, it is 18 gauge galvanized, which you can get from any drywall/
steel stud supplier for about $80. No cutting needed. I used carriage bolts
and nylock nuts to hold it to the frame.

 

[dirt ditch]

The HF 1090 lb. Capacity 40-1/2" x 48" trailer I have is 5 years old. It's been used for everything from spraying to hauling firewood. Don't use it on the road so never installed the lights.

View attachment 447608

http://www.harborfreight.com - 1090 lb capacity 40-12 half inch x 48 inch mini utility trailer with 12 inch four lug wheels and tires

 

[Duwop]

I bought and assembled one 10 years ago registered it in Va it was a great $300 trailer. I gave it to my son last year and he took it to Fl. If I needed a cheap trailer I would buy another one no problem never had issue with the light kit that came with it.