Loader BXing stumps!

[Rustyferrious]

Probably MMM,

From Bro-Tek


Please note that some rear spacers may interfere with the mid mount mower (MMM). Here are some guidelines:

• The 1.25 in spacers will work with all known 54" and 60" mowers
» BX Models with RCK54-23BX (54" Deck) must use 1.25" spacers
• 1.5 inch spacers will work with most 54" and all 60" mowers
» BX Models with RCK54P-23BX (54" Deck) can use 1.5" spacers
• 2 inch spacers only work with the 60" deck
• 3 inch spacers will not work with most MMM decks
• All spacers for the Kubota BX series will work with the 48" deck
3 inch spacers are the most stable option giving the widest wheelbase, but will not work with mower decks. Prices are for a set of two spacers which will fit either the front or rear as labeled. All required hardware is included.

Thanks Slim, I did read that on the Bro-Tek site. I just wanted to make sure that a mower was the reason dragon used the 2" and not something I had not thought of or considered. I don't use the BX for mowing so I think the 3" would be what I would want - just thought it would be wise to verify before clicking the "buy" button!

 

[dragoneggs]

Thanks Slim, I did read that on the Bro-Tek site. I just wanted to make sure that a mower was the reason dragon used the 2" and not something I had not thought of or considered. I don't use the BX for mowing so I think the 3" would be what I would want - just thought it would be wise to verify before clicking the "buy" button!

Rusty, I don't have a MMM. I also don't recall but I don't think the 3in rears were offered when I bought. Otherwise probably would have assuming research proved the smart play.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Rusty, I don't have a MMM. I also don't recall but I don't think the 3in rears were offered when I bought. Otherwise probably would have assuming research proved the smart play.

Mark,

I am contemplating some of the Bro-Tek stuff. I make a lot of my own stuff but that takes time from the seat (now at 1200 hrs). Did you get both skid plates? I have procrastinated on the wheel spacers as my mechanic foreman at Jennings told me they have more rear bearing problems on tractors with spacers than those w/o. He did say if he had a BX he would probably do it. Easy to say when you have all the resources to fix it. Of course this is not a scientific analysis. I think I know a thing or two (HA HA), so I would think the spacers do move the center of force further out from the supporting bearings. Just a bearing replacement is a min $500 job in the dealer shop. I have never turned mine over but have been close and puckering. The BH really works as a movable counterbalance and I always have the FEL down low.

My wish list would be the spacers, the under armor, and the thumb. The ripper tooth does not intrigue me as my 8" bucket chews up roots pretty good. Even the 12 does a credible job when the size hole needed dictates the bigger bucket. Your thoughts?

Ron

 

[russellm]

Mark,

I am contemplating some of the Bro-Tek stuff. I make a lot of my own stuff but that takes time from the seat (now at 1200 hrs). Did you get both skid plates? I have procrastinated on the wheel spacers as my mechanic foreman at Jennings told me they have more rear bearing problems on tractors with spacers than those w/o. He did say if he had a BX he would probably do it. Easy to say when you have all the resources to fix it. Of course this is not a scientific analysis. I think I know a thing or two (HA HA), so I would think the spacers do move the center of force further out from the supporting bearings. Just a bearing replacement is a min $500 job in the dealer shop. I have never turned mine over but have been close and puckering. The BH really works as a movable counterbalance and I always have the FEL down low.

My wish list would be the spacers, the under armor, and the thumb. The ripper tooth does not intrigue me as my 8" bucket chews up roots pretty good. Even the 12 does a credible job when the size hole needed dictates the bigger bucket. Your thoughts?

Ron

I have the 2" spacers and love them. Has given me a lot more confidence on my hills then prior. I often have wondered why Kubota did not make the tractor wider.. trade-offs I guess. But it could also be it creates the stress that you mention above. The bearings and the tractor is a lot more usable with them and its a small price to pay if it saves me from a flip.

I did not go with the 3" because I felt like adding 6" of stance just seemed like too much for the tractor, so chose the 2"

 

[dragoneggs]

Mark,

I am contemplating some of the Bro-Tek stuff. I make a lot of my own stuff but that takes time from the seat (now at 1200 hrs). Did you get both skid plates? I have procrastinated on the wheel spacers as my mechanic foreman at Jennings told me they have more rear bearing problems on tractors with spacers than those w/o. He did say if he had a BX he would probably do it. Easy to say when you have all the resources to fix it. Of course this is not a scientific analysis. I think I know a thing or two (HA HA), so I would think the spacers do move the center of force further out from the supporting bearings. Just a bearing replacement is a min $500 job in the dealer shop. I have never turned mine over but have been close and puckering. The BH really works as a movable counterbalance and I always have the FEL down low.

My wish list would be the spacers, the under armor, and the thumb. The ripper tooth does not intrigue me as my 8" bucket chews up roots pretty good. Even the 12 does a credible job when the size hole needed dictates the bigger bucket. Your thoughts?

Ron

Hi Ron, yes I got both front and rear skid plates. Seeing what you are doing I would definitely get both. You could fab something up but I wanted something tried and proven. I am surprised you haven't taken out your HST fan already if you don't have any protection underneath! :shocked:

I do not have a MMM so there wasn't really a limitation for spacer sizes although I did kind of want to leave my options open at the time. Since then I bought a Zero turn instead so I won't ever be mowing with my BX. I settled on the 2in for the rears because I think that was biggest offered at the time. I went with the 1.25in on the fronts because I was worried about over stressing the front axles and steering linkage. I wasn't as concerned on the rears but my 'gut' feel is the rear axle could easily take the extra stress but the fronts might be another story. Who know's... maybe I am very close to an expensive bearing replacement. I am under warranty so I could easily remove the spacers and take it in if a problem arises. Lord knows I have worked my BX hard... lot's of FEL work in 4WD!

On the BH bucket, I have the 12in and the factory mechanical thumb. I have used the BH a fair amount mainly for trenching and several big stumps. Yes it is a great counterbalance too. I usually have it on. The thumb though hasn't got as much action as I could have given it. I guess I am little lazy and try to not mess with it. Would be nice to have a hydraulic thumb! But that is probably just a luxury for the amount I would use it. I do want a smaller bucket/trencher (not a ripper) as I have a bunch of water and power lines (several hundred feet) I want to trench and don't want digging 12in wide plus ditches all over.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Hi Ron, yes I got both front and rear skid plates. Seeing what you are doing I would definitely get both. You could fab something up but I wanted something tried and proven. I am surprised you haven't taken out your HST fan already if you don't have any protection underneath! :shocked:

On the BH bucket, I have the 12in and the factory mechanical thumb. I have used the BH a fair amount mainly for trenching and several big stumps. Yes it is a great counterbalance too. I usually have it on. The thumb though hasn't got as much action as I could have given it. I guess I am little lazy and try to not mess with it. Would be nice to have a hydraulic thumb! But that is probably just a luxury for the amount I would use it. I do want a smaller bucket/trencher (not a ripper) as I have a bunch of water and power lines (several hundred feet) I want to trench and don't want digging 12in wide plus ditches all over.

Mark,

The 8" wide bucket is the narrowest available unless someone has an after market one. Much less than 8 though I think clogging would be a problem except in sand. Sand is what I have most below up to 12" of humus laden top soil which gets sticky. You can borrow my 8 incher as I will not need it for awhile. I did destroy the fan once. When I had it in the shop for that KTAC covered claim they replaced it as part of it. Jennings convinced KTAC that I overheated the HST with the fan out and it made it sluggish (???) so that work is what zoomed the claim to $8K. I am looking for where a temp guage could be installed. I did not argue with them about it as the cost to me was still $250. When it came back I saw no difference. The Skid plates or on the to do list. The Bro-Tek Thumb looks like it would be easy to add a cylinder in place of that top link. I would probably add a joy stick with a switch for the solenoid controlled by the swing cylinder side of the JS. Probably useful to have the boom cylinder active when working the thumb.

Ron

 

[dragoneggs]

Mark,

The 8" wide bucket is the narrowest available unless someone has an after market one. Much less than 8 though I think clogging would be a problem except in sand. Sand is what I have most below up to 12" of humus laden top soil which gets sticky. You can borrow my 8 incher as I will not need it for awhile. I did destroy the fan once. When I had it in the shop for that KTAC covered claim they replaced it as part of it. Jennings convinced KTAC that I overheated the HST with the fan out and it made it sluggish (???) so that work is what zoomed the claim to $8K. I am looking for where a temp guage could be installed. I did not argue with them about it as the cost to me was still $250. When it came back I saw no difference. The Skid plates or on the to do list. The Bro-Tek Thumb looks like it would be easy to add a cylinder in place of that top link. I would probably add a joy stick with a switch for the solenoid controlled by the swing cylinder side of the JS. Probably useful to have the boom cylinder active when working the thumb.

Ron

I would love to take you up on your offer to borrow the 8in bucket. But it might be spring now before I get on that project. We could swap buckets so you are not dead in the water if you need your BH (and you have collateral! ). I'm not sure I want to create a bunch of canals during the rainy season!

I think if you have hydraulics on the thumb you would use it far more. The mechanical works but if you have repetitive work needing the thumb, you will get tired of pulling and adjusting the pin.

 

[russellm]

I bought the trenching bucket for my BH from bxpanded:
Trencher bucket for Kubota BX24, BX25 and BX25D

I have used my mechanical thumb quite a bit already. two main uses:
1. I moved 60 railroad ties down my hill to line the road I created
2. to grab branches and such since I dont have a grapple