Not the battery

[MoPops]

My CT225 wouldn't start last week. Just a humming sound when I turn the key, either way. I thought it might be the battery, so I put it on a trickle charger for a week. Tried to start it again on Saturday, same sounds. I thought it might be a bad battery, so I took it out and had Battery's Plus test it. It's fine. Still reads like new. They tested under a load. He said more of a load than I possibly could be using it. Plus it came back pretty fast. He said I'd like to sell you a battery, but there's nothing wrong with this one.
So, I called the local Bobcat repair guy. He said check all the safety shut off switches first. Seat, drive pedal, PTO, etc.
I'll be back at the farm tomorrow. Anyone thing of anything else I can check. Anything else that may be causing this?
Appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
Jeff

 

[Looking4new]

Check the starter relay. On my Kioti it is behind the coolant tank mounted on the firewall. Mine is a 70amp 12 volt 4 pin relay.

 

[Ed of all trades]

If I remember well take a stick and tap the side of the starter pretty hard, I said tap not beat. Sounds like a stuck bendix. I used to use a small baseball bat like a pool cue. I think bindix is the right word I don't feel the best this morning and my brain is kinda foggy. Ed

 

[MoPops]

I'll check the relay, and "tap" the starter.. Thanks

 

[Jabonee]

Don't forget to check your grounds. Do your lights stay lit when you crank?

 

[winston1]

Could try a remote starter switch such as this. It will tell you whether it is the starter or not. Search results for: 'remote starter'

 

[tcartwri]

Mine refuses to start at least once a year. No reason that I have ever found. I jump the starter solenoid to get it going, and it will be fine for another year.

 

[MoPops]

I'm not real skilled under the hood. I can certainly identify the starter, but I'm not sure I can try bypassing anything. I'd hook something up wrong, and cause $2.000 worth of damages. I'll check grounds, safety switches, tap the starter. Will it help to try and move it? We had a old Galaxy 500, that we had to rock back and forth when it wouldn't start. I'll know more tomorrow.
Thanks

 

[winston1]

If you don't feel comfortable I don't blame you. To use the remote starter button you would hook one lead up to the big terminal where the positive cable is coming from the battery. (right hand terminal on picture). The other lead would hook to the small spade terminal. Then push the remote button. In doing this you are by passing all safety switches, ignition switch, relays, etc. One would need to think with safety having tractor out of gear, etc. The test will tell you if your starter is good as long at the battery and large battery cables are good and have good connections. New Starter Mahindra 4110 Tractor Daedong Kioti E5500 6301 E5500 6314 600931 | eBay

 

[tman1020]

My first guess is the key switch. Many posts about minor trouble there if it has been exposed to weather. Try some contact cleaner or fluid film in the key slot.

 

[MoPops]

I think it's the positive wires and connection running to the battery. When I tried to put it back on the positive terminal it literally fell apart.

 

[Threepoint]

Looks like you found the problem. :thumbsup: The battery clamp may well have been cracked for awhile (maybe a stress fracture), preventing it from making good, consistent contact with the post. The connection might have been good enough to power the trigger circuit on the solenoid and the lights on the instrument panel, but not to carry the full current required by the starter.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Glad you found it, I did not follow my "rule" of trying the little, simple, cheep things first. If I had I would have told you different. Ed

 

[MoPops]

I didn't have time to run out for a new clamp. My place isn't that close to anything.. I'll grab a new clamp this week, and give it a try. Hope it's the answer.
Question, does it have to be soldered on? Hopefully I can pry the old connection apart, and just squeeze/clamp on a new one. I do not have a soldering iron. I've got a torch and solder, but not sure how that would work.. (I use it to sweat copper pipe connections.)
Thx

 

[tman1020]

Glad you found it that looks like corrosion in your battery compartment in the picture you posted. I may be wrong but if it is check for a leaking battery. Mine and several other guys batteries were leaking in that same area some of them had some pretty good damage. I think there was a problem with the stock bobcat batteries doing this.

 

[Threepoint]

I didn't have time to run out for a new clamp. My place isn't that close to anything.. I'll grab a new clamp this week, and give it a try. Hope it's the answer.
Question, does it have to be soldered on? Hopefully I can pry the old connection apart, and just squeeze/clamp on a new one. I do not have a soldering iron. I've got a torch and solder, but not sure how that would work.. (I use it to sweat copper pipe connections.)
Thx

Your factory clamps look like they are swaged on, not soldered. Not practical for you to replicate, and unnecessary. This is the kind of clamp I'd use. Amazon.com: NOCO TZKIT1 Lead-Free Top Post Zinc Battery Terminal Kit: Automotive Cut the cable, strip the end, and tighten the machine screws to complete the repair before reattaching to the post. Amazon claims same day delivery, if you need it that fast. Wonder if they can do that out where you are!

BTW, you may also be able to find a similar repair clamp that also has a secondary marine-type terminal (a threaded post with nut), which will allow easier attachment of accessory wiring in the future, if you wish.

 

[MoPops]

Glad you found it that looks like corrosion in your battery compartment in the picture you posted. I may be wrong but if it is check for a leaking battery. Mine and several other guys batteries were leaking in that same area some of them had some pretty good damage. I think there was a problem with the stock bobcat batteries doing this.

It possibly has, or had, a small leak. I had to use a pry bar to break it loose. It had sat in the back of my pickup for two weeks though, without leaving a drop. There was no damage to where the battery sits in the tractor. I'll continue to watch it. It tests very well.
I'm a little surprised at the quality of the clamps used for the battery connections. Pretty flimsy.

 

[MoPops]

Your factory clamps look like they are swaged on, not soldered. Not practical for you to replicate, and unnecessary. This is the kind of clamp I'd use. Amazon.com: NOCO TZKIT1 Lead-Free Top Post Zinc Battery Terminal Kit: Automotive Cut the cable, strip the end, and tighten the machine screws to complete the repair before reattaching to the post. Amazon claims same day delivery, if you need it that fast. Wonder if they can do that out where you are! BTW, you may also be able to find a similar repair clamp that also has a secondary marine-type terminal (a threaded post with nut), which will allow easier attachment of accessory wiring in the future, if you wish.

Those look perfect. I'm going to order them. Amazon Prime to the rescue.
Thanks!

 

[k0ua]

Those look perfect. I'm going to order them. Amazon Prime to the rescue.
Thanks!

Be sure to grease the copper well before putting it in the clamp, then a light coating of grease over the entire clamp and the battery posts. Be sure to clean the posts well and make sure the copper wire is clean and bright.

I use No-Ox-Id, but if I didn't have any I would use a good dielectric grease (electrical department of big box stores)or even just regular grease if that was all I had. The idea is to prevent the battery fumes from eating up the connections in the first place.

 

[powerscol]

Exact same issue happened to me. To get a clamp on you need to try and solder. Mine is crimped (NAPA) part and I need to order the new cable as it is just too tight a fit. (works for now)

Everyone needs to check this . As soon as the lower copper ring starts to corrode, you will have the same problem.