L4310 fuel leak - tank removal

[oldstyles]

I have a year 2000 L4310. A fairly heavy fuel leak started suddenly and seems to be coming from below the fuel tank. It lost about 2 gallons in 30 minutes after I shut the machine off, and finally quit when the tank ran dry. It looks like the whole steering column and controls need to be removed just to get the fuel tank out. I hope it's just a hose. Can anyone offer insight into my problem? Thanks

 

[JRobyn]

Mine is about a 2006 L4330, but I am pretty sure that the tank can be removed from the top after completely removing the hood. So do this first; even if you still can't get it out, at least you will have good access and visibility of the top and sides of the tank. The hood will come off with just hitch pins but it's heavy! A couple of pins on the hold-open mechanism and a pin on each hood pivot.

- Jay

 

[oldstyles]

Thanks Jay. The engine cowling is off and the dash is out. My tank appears to be held in by 4 bolts accessible (or not) through the dash/column. The tank has a mounting flange on the top and bottom which prevents it from being removed towards the engine.....so I either need a nifty trick to gain access to the rear of the tank or some tips on removing the whole column assembly. The column sheet metal or bulkhead is blocking my view of the rear of the tank, as well as access to the 2 lower mounting bolts.

This tank would easily be removed from the engine side if the mounting flanges and bolts had been reversed. The engineer should be flogged.

Can anybody offer advice on L4310 column removal?

 

[Grandad4]

Here's the diagram from the parts list. You're right, it does seem to be attached from both the front and the back. I've had the instrument cluster out on mine a couple of times and seem to recall it wasn't that hard to remove. If that's correct, it might give you access to those bolts without tearing down the whole assembly. I'll check the shop manual tomorrow and see if there's a procedure in it for replacing the fuel tank.View attachment 433831

 

[oldstyles]

Cluster is out which allowed top bolts to be removed. The sheet metal shown in the right side of the diagram is blocking the 2 bottom bolts as well as rearward removal of the tank. It looks like all of the column, brake pedals, clutch pedal, wiring, etc have to come out to remove the sheet metal bulkhead. I guess I need to just start pullin'.

 

[Grandad4]

Cluster is out which allowed top bolts to be removed. The sheet metal shown in the right side of the diagram is blocking the 2 bottom bolts as well as rearward removal of the tank. It looks like all of the column, brake pedals, clutch pedal, wiring, etc have to come out to remove the sheet metal bulkhead. I guess I need to just start pullin'.

The bottom bolts on mine are just 3/4" in length and do not go all the way through to the back of the tank. See photo.


View attachment 433891

 

[Grandad4]

The bottom bolts on mine are just 3/4" in length and do not go all the way through to the back of the tank. See photo.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kubota-owning-operating/433891-l4310-fuel-leak-tank-removal-forumrunner_20150722_143106-png"/>

Well it's a smart phone but its operator, not so much. Try the photo again.



View attachment 433896

 

[Grandad4]

Guess the photo did go through, but did not show on the "smart phone". The service manual, by the way, does not say you need to disassemble the steering column, etc., to get the tank off. Removing the bolts plus that rear light gray support in the photo, should allow the tank to be removed to the rear and up. Hope that does work out for you OK.

 

[C4Ranch]

Looks fairly similar to my old b7500. When it R&R the tank on it, I had to get the cover under the steering wheel loose so I could shift to one side to get to the bolts. Didn't have to take it off, just remove all bolts to it so you can get at the tank bolts.

 

[oldstyles]

I found a couple threads regarding the L4200, which is basically the same tractor. Looks like a lot of fun!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/108795-fuel-tank-leaking-kubota-l4200.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/282560-spliting-l4200.html

 

[Leejohn]

You might be able to pull that tank by taking the dash loose to remove the 2 bolts at the top. With the loader off remove the heat shield. It well come out the right side. Then unbolt the bar that goes over the tank at the lower ends. In the parts drawing the bar is not hi lighted. You might be able to pull bar and the tank at the same time.
I just today adjusted my valves on my L4240 and had to pull the heat sheild and tank. Now I did just unhook the tank and it would not come out. I then unhooked the cross bar and everything was loose the tank came out then I pulled the cross bar. I looked it over good after I got ready to put back in and said why can't I do both at once. I just started the bolts that holds the tank to the bar and dropped both in at the same time. The clutch rod had to come off on mine just so the bar could clear. My crossbar is just a little different then yours. Give that a shot first before you start pulling all that dash out.
Half a day to remove the hood and get the tank out. 20 mins to adjust valves, and maybe a hour to put tank back in and put the hood back on. That hood on mine is heavy, that was a ***** by yourself.
Now if you stop and think about it, how would they adjust your valves? That cost many many $$'s the way you are thinking of going.

 

[oldstyles]

Well, it's finally apart and there's a hole at the bottom left front corner of the tank. I did remove the whole steering column. I tried to remove the tank and its mounting crossmember as a unit but there are 4 bolts holding the crossmember directly to the driveline. The info for a L4200 was VERY helpful....the L4310 appears the same in terms of the tank and column area.

 

[Leejohn]

Yes I had to remove the 4 bolts, only one gave me some trouble getting back in.

 

[oldstyles]

Yes I had to remove the 4 bolts, only one gave me some trouble getting back in.

Wow, you must have noodle fingers to get those bolts out with the tank in place. I toyed with the idea of cutting the crossmember but the lessons of my grandfather whispered in my ear to "just get at it" and take it apart.

 

[Leejohn]

wow I see what you mean now. Mine are on the side up under the tank frame. Also I had to remove the heat 1st.

 

[oldstyles]

I welded the hole and it held......but I heard my grandfather whisper again. "You know that hole is bigger on the inside than it seemed." So I got the hammer that he left me and I smacked the bottom of the tank and found another bad spot. The moral to the story is Grand Daddy would buy a new tank and avoid another laborious job. He would tell me how even though it looks clean and solid, the inside is pitted with rust and will leak again. Sooooo, I ordered an OEM tank for about $300.

 

[C4Ranch]

When in doubt get it out!

My motto... Ifin ya got doubt, replace it.