How would you repair this?

[Shield Arc]

I broke a Lenox blade for my Ellis 1800 saw. How would you make this repair?

 

[CalG]

Square and scarf, Silver braze Clean up anything proud.

Just the same as making up a new one.

 

[Deleted member 216442]

I broke a Lenox blade for my Ellis 1800 saw. How would you make this repair?

I would cut or grind the ends straight and reweld it using a blade welder found on some quality bandsaws, which also have grinders and annealers to complete the job. If you don't anneal it it will crack again. The welders hold them coplanar and push them together while a pulse of welding current is applied. The bulging weld has to then be ground flat and annealed.

 

[Shield Arc]

Square and scarf, Silver braze Clean up anything proud.

Just the same as making up a new one.

Oh God, I'm the world's worst solderer / brazer! It all ends up on top of my feet!:laughing:

I would cut or grind the ends straight and reweld it using a blade welder found on some quality bandsaws, which also have grinders and annealers to complete the job. If you don't anneal it it will crack again. The welders hold them coplanar and push them together while a pulse of welding current is applied. The bulging weld has to then be ground flat and annealed.

How about this?

 

[Big Barn]

Here you go Shield Arc.



Aren't you the one who said 'you can never have too many welding machines'?


Terry

 

[Shield Arc]

WOW! That's almost as much as I paid for the saw.:laughing:

 

[Mysfyt]

Nice tig job! Did you use stainless filler rod? I've got the same saw you have and I'd encourage you to try a vari-tooth blade such as a 5-8 in a bimetal. It will eliminate a lot of vibration.

 

[Shield Arc]

Mysfyt where do you buy your blades at? I have the hardest time finding them. I just bought a dozen Lenox blades. So far I'm not impressed!:thumbdown: This blade broke about a month ago, it started cracking at the top of the blade, not at the teeth!

Yes I used ER 312 stainless steel.

 

[dstig1]

Have you ever checked tension on the BS blade? There are tension meters you can get for not too crazt money. Iturra has them (focused on WW applications, but tension is tension in a BS blade)... I'm just wondering if you are way over-stressing it by accident. Lennox is known for good blades. I have one of their sawzall blades and it is incredible compared to the usual Milwaukee or other stuff. But a defective batch is also a possibility.

Besides...a REAL MAN OA welds stuff like that, and doesn't leave all that ugly filler to grind away. A quick wipe with a scotchbrite pad should be all you need to get the weld flush with the blade...:laughing:

 

[Arc weld]

You should get warranty on the blade. A new Ideal blade welder only runs about $250,000 and then you just need the grinder and the blade shear for a few thousand more. Should be pocket change for Shield Arc. Then you can buy 250' bulk coils of blade. My last job sold M.K. Morse (USA) blades and a lot of shops preferred them over Lenox. I liked the sales rep. He said they have 5 Ideal blade welders. Lenox moved production to China and I think quality suffered a bit. Wikus (Germany) are also really good blades.

Saw blades, hole saws, circular saw blades, and recip blades: The M. K. Morse Company provides professional quality metal cutting blades and power tool accessories.

 

[Mysfyt]

Mysfyt where do you buy your blades at? I have the hardest time finding them. I just bought a dozen Lenox blades. So far I'm not impressed!:thumbdown: This blade broke about a month ago, it started cracking at the top of the blade, not at the teeth!

Yes I used ER 312 stainless steel.

Oh yes, the world of bandsaw blades! Find yourself a good blade and then wait for the manufacturer to turn them into junk. Ive got over 30 years of experience of purchasing them, and quality comes and goes! Lennox used to be good blades, but I won't buy them anymore. Wikus,if you can find them in your
area are good right now. McMaster Carr blades have been good to me, but they get a bit pricey. And speaking of price, you get what you pay for. I won't mess with cheap blades. I go for the vary-tooth bimetal in all my saws. They last longer and cut straight until they break like yours did or start losing teeth. Cheaper carbon blades will start cutting curves when worn(and sometimes when they're brand new) and you usually discover it during fit up-not good!
I currently buy my blades from a local supplier and the brand name escapes me. I'll check on this and get back to you. Others here will have recommendations I'm sure.

I've never used 312 filler rod, only 308 and 309. Curious as to what are the properties of this rod.

 

[square1]

Originally Posted by CalG View Post
Square and scarf, Silver braze Clean up anything proud.

Oh God, I'm the world's worst solderer / brazer! It all ends up on top of my feet!:laughing:

I'd really like to help you out, lord knows you've helped me often enough, but I can't braze either

 

[Shield Arc]

Have you ever checked tension on the BS blade? There are tension meters you can get for not too crazt money. Iturra has them (focused on WW applications, but tension is tension in a BS blade)... I'm just wondering if you are way over-stressing it by accident. Lennox is known for good blades. I have one of their sawzall blades and it is incredible compared to the usual Milwaukee or other stuff. But a defective batch is also a possibility.

Besides...a REAL MAN OA welds stuff like that, and doesn't leave all that ugly filler to grind away. A quick wipe with a scotchbrite pad should be all you need to get the weld flush with the blade...:laughing:

The amount of tension crossed my mind, especially when this blade broke at the top. When I replaced the broken blade I used a lot less tension. Trust me, I'm the kind of guy who can break a cannon ball!
I can't even remember the last time I O/A welded something!

I've never used 312 filler rod, only 308 and 309. Curious as to what are the properties of this rod.

Only reason I went with the 312 is. I use to drive piling for a living. Seemed as I was the one who got stuck staying late or coming in on the weekends to repair the cast steel pile driving equipment. The company started out buying Super Missile Weld. The outside welding supply salesman told me if we couldn't get Super Missile Weld to use 312 Stainless Steel.

312 has 109,500 PSI tensile strength. 78,000 PSI yield strength.
Super Missileweld | The Harris Products Group

 

[ericher69]

Try this site Lenox Bandsaw Blades, Custom Band Saw Blades - BandSawBladeDirect.com

Sent from my iPhone 5s 64Gb using TractorByNet

 

[Mysfyt]

Only reason I went with the 312 is. I use to drive piling for a living. Seemed as I was the one who got stuck staying late or coming in on the weekends to repair the cast steel pile driving equipment. The company started out buying Super Missile Weld. The outside welding supply salesman told me if we couldn't get Super Missile Weld to use 312 Stainless Steel.

312 has 109,500 PSI tensile strength. 78,000 PSI yield strength.
Super Missileweld | The Harris Products Group
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Thanks Shield Arc! Have to store this one in my memory bank. (Which doesn't work as good as it used to)

 

[Shield Arc]

Try this site Lenox Bandsaw Blades, Custom Band Saw Blades - BandSawBladeDirect.com

Thank you! I bookmarked that site. Playing around on it, their blades are a little cheaper than I just paid.

 

[yomax4]

I used to make Lenox saw blades in my early life at a LWS. You can take the blade in and they will re-weld it professionally for just a few bucks. You could tig or silver it but the bandsaw welder does it perfectly.

 

[Fawken]

Thank you! I bookmarked that site. Playing around on it, their blades are a little cheaper than I just paid.

Chiming in late, but I have used Bandsaw blades direct for many years and their blades are top notch, IMO.

 

[Fawken]

Thank you! I bookmarked that site. Playing around on it, their blades are a little cheaper than I just paid.

Chiming in late, but I have used Bandsaw blades direct for many years and their blades are top notch, IMO.

 

[CNC Dan]

The amount of tension crossed my mind, especially when this blade broke at the top. When I replaced the broken blade I used a lot less ......

Do you have metal wheels, or rubber? If metal, check for chip build up. The big DoAll saw at work has grooves that will get chips in them. That causes the blade to bend a little more at that spot. Also, if the top blade guard accumulates chips, they eventually get caught on the blade and and a bunch get pulled under the idler wheel. That can break a blade.