Oil & Fuel Front axle draining

[Lieber]

Was draining the front axle,center bolt,decided to check the small bolts on each end one came gushing out,the other just dripped real slow as if it was empty,so I opened the top big plug and it came gushing out the top.I ran a wire thinking the bottom plug must be restricted,but nothing?I gave it a shot of air and it all came out the center plug on the axle,never did come out the bottom plug on that side.I decided to drain the axle because the site gauge was reading empty.I dont have a manual,but It seemed to have almost 2'gal in the axle.When you fill the axle thru the top plug,I'm assuming it all eventually goes where it should if on level ground??? This is a dk40 se 2013 with 110 hours. Anybody have any ideas??

 

[murphy1244]

It will take 1.9 gal. Let it drain for a awhile then add your oil. The axle won't take all of the fluid at first, add then drive and check again.

 

[Amvcane]

I might be mistaken, but I recall reading a thread where someone had a similar issue with no fluid coming out of the outer axle drain plug. I believe the cause was an O ring or seal, installed at the factory that was restricting the flow of fluid to the drain plug. Hopefully someone else will chime in and direct you to the thread if it exists.

 

[tooln]

I had this problem. When looking into the drian hole I could see something real shinny. I called my dealer and spoke to the service rep. I explained what happened and what I saw. He figures the bearing race was put in wrong.

 

[CJONE]

No, it is not the bearing race. It is the plug in the bottom that seals the assembly. Look in there and you can see the top of the o-ring [at least you could on mine] where it seals the bottom section. I believe the housing was just machined a little deep. I pulled mine apart just to be sure. CJ

 

[tooln]

No, it is not the bearing race. It is the plug in the bottom that seals the assembly. Look in there and you can see the top of the o-ring [at least you could on mine] where it seals the bottom section. I believe the housing was just machined a little deep. I pulled mine apart just to be sure. CJ

So what was the fix? Mines going back once it slows down and before the warranty is up.

 

[CJONE]

So what was the fix? Mines going back once it slows down and before the warranty is up.

Fix for what? If your concerned about it not draining out all the way, you can take it apart and grind a slot by the drain plug to allow it to drain faster. But to me it was not a big issue after cleaning out the little bit of metal that was in there from the new gears wearing in, I just reassembled it. Would not be a problem to leave it as is. CJ

 

[CJONE]

Also just a thought, I don't trust too many people working on my stuff. If the person you spoke to believes it is a race? why has it not fell apart? A race is not something that can be put in wrong that will last any amount of time. I have seen them not seated and even put in backwards and none of them lasted without being loose and in the case of the backwards ones fell apart almost immediately. So be careful on someone tearing something apart that they are not sure about. CJ

 

[tooln]

I doubt it's a bearing race as you say it would have failed by now. I spoke to the service rep not the mechanic. Once it goes in for repair I'll find out for sure. Mine would drain a drop at a time, it is not correct and needs to be fixed.

 

[xcgreene]

Here are a couple exploded views of the axle that may help everyone talk about it.

 

[Coyote machine]

When it is completely drained and refilled, and as Murphy said, driven then rechecked, the white ball in the site glass should be in the center of the red circle, indicating full, but not overfull.
I don't see any bearing races in those diagrams, just sealed roller bearings.
Some use UTF in the axle, some use 80/90 gear oil. Book says either is good. I choose UTF. YMMV.

 

[XCAT]

HI,
I had this issue with my EX50, the fault is the lower bearing cir clip can rotate and block the drain hole. see previous post http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/247252-2010-dk45se-front-axle-issue.html

I have just this week done the major 500 hour service, and again cant drain the lh final drive, so I removed the lower cir clip and removed the large rubber/ steel lower plug and drained both sides,
this is how I will change the oil from now on as the drain plug is above this level - so any wear metal will be sitting below or in the lower bearing and will not drain out.
I removed the plugs and found quite a bit of wear metal ( nothing to suggest there is a problem ) , cleaned the plug and refitted it and the cir clip - very easy, just need large cir clip pillars.
much better in my opinion.

I just tried to load photo but I will not work !!
cheers

 

[XCAT]

here you go, arrow points to the drain hole, in this case the cir clip is in correct location and oil will drain, but if cir clip rotates the hole will be blocked and oil can not be drained.
I hope this helps.
cheers

 

[cat fever]

I have a question about front end lube.
Bought my RX6620 new. When I checked the level in the front end - - no oil on the dip stick. I did the service yesterday and drained the oil. Did not measure it, but it was close to 2 gals. The book says 2.2 gals is needed to change it out. So I added 2 gals and just a little more, less than a quart. Checked it and now it's half inch over the full mark. So, is being overfilled a problem? If it was the engine oil I would drain some out, but do I need to bother with it for the front axle?

 

[Coyote machine]

You want it full, but not over filled. Overfill can lead to pressure build up while operating, and result in blown seals. This is NOT something you want to happen. Not familiar with the specifics of the 6620 axle setup, but there ought to be a sight glass on the center left side of the axle's backside, with a white ball that centers in a red circle when the axle is full, when on level surface. You will have to allow a small amount out at a time until the ball is centered, to be at correct fluid level.

 

[cat fever]

You want it full, but not over filled. Overfill can lead to pressure build up while operating, and result in blown seals. This is NOT something you want to happen. Not familiar with the specifics of the 6620 axle setup, but there ought to be a sight glass on the center left side of the axle's backside, with a white ball that centers in a red circle when the axle is full, when on level surface. You will have to allow a small amount out at a time until the ball is centered, to be at correct fluid level.

Thanks.
I do not think mine has a sight glass. It has a dip stick similar to the crank case dip stick. I will drain a little out, it's not hard. I just have a problem doing things twice.

 

[ritcheyvs]

In fact, drive it a bit, let it rest for a half hour or so, and then check the level. The oil is thick enough that when you refill it air can get trapped in the lower gears and make the level look higher than it actually is. Likewise enough oil can be entained in the upper gears to make the level look lower than it really is.

 

[Coyote machine]

Thanks.
I do not think mine has a sight glass. It has a dip stick similar to the crank case dip stick. I will drain a little out, it's not hard. I just have a problem doing things twice.

You're welcome. BTW, you won't be doing it twice, just finishing doing it right the first time. Dipstick, eh? Fancy front end!?:drool:

 

[cat fever]

In fact, drive it a bit, let it rest for a half hour or so, and then check the level. The oil is thick enough that when you refill it air can get trapped in the lower gears and make the level look higher than it actually is. Likewise enough oil can be entained in the upper gears to make the level look lower than it really is.

I changed it yesterday, and have not checked it today. (I'm at work) When I get home I will check it out. I know I had all the old oil drained, it was barely dripping when I put the plugs back in. I did not add more than the 2.2 gals. So one would think it was just right. But, like Coyote machine said. I'm just "finishing doing it right the first time."

 

[Coyote machine]

And, even though the spec shows 2.2 gallons, it will likely vary from that amount. It's virtually impossible to get all the oil out of any axle, oil or trans. They spec it for what it takes to fill it from empty, before ever having filled it prior. Some fluid will get trapped in the nooks and crannies just like in an English muffin.
Full is when, if lucky enough to have a dipstick, it reads full, after sitting long enough for every bit of oil to settle, then read the stick mark.