Well that wasn't any fun!

[gwstang]

There has to be some kind of a secret to adjusting the turnbuckles on the lower arms!

On the L2501, I removed the finishing mower as I am done with it for now and put the bush hog on...or tried too. I adjusted some on the turnbuckle on the right side as it was rubbing on the inside of the right tire. Almost impossible to do when the implement is on and in somewhat of a bind. I slid the right side arm off the pin and adjusted the turnbuckle and could not get the arm back on the hog. I fought with that thing for about an hour adjusting and pushing the hog around with a pry bar. I finally just removed the vertical adjusting rod on that side and then could do the turnbuckle. Re-adjust the vertical rod and then it was ok. Is there an easier way to adjust the turnbuckle with the implement attached? Not much room to do anything with one of those. btw, it is adjusted for now so there is no bind, but I do not wish to go through that again with the next implement change. I am use to the old Ford 8N that I have and it uses stabilizer bars to hold the implement where it won't hit the tires. Much easier to use. I am not in love with the turnbuckle type right now. ugh! :confused2:

 

[tman1020]

Get your self a quick hitch and adjust it one time and your done. One step up from that is a hydraulic top link with that quick hitch.
I spent a little time setting up all my attachments to be compatible now I can change implements in 20 seconds and they are perfectly adjusted. Pto shafts are the only added work.

 

[gwstang]

I have one of those harbor freight quick hitches and have used it on the Ford. I had to modify the top hook up on some of my older implements such as two bottom plow, bush hog and a few others. I guess I need to try it out with the Kubota to see if it's any help. Thanks.

 

[tman1020]

I also had a little trouble with the hook at first. I shaved some off the inside. This helped but the hydro top link makes it very easy. Good luck once you get it setup right it's infinitely easier. Can't believe it took me so long.

 

[Xfaxman]

There has to be some kind of a secret to adjusting the turnbuckles on the lower arms!

On the L2501, I removed the finishing mower as I am done with it for now and put the bush hog on...or tried too. I adjusted some on the turnbuckle on the right side as it was rubbing on the inside of the right tire. --------------- Is there an easier way to adjust the turnbuckle with the implement attached? Not much room to do anything with one of those. -----

I always put the hydraulic top link on, raised it up and adjusted both sides to center it.

With the hydraulic top link on first and my pvc pipe extender on the remote lever, I could move the brush hog forward or back, to get the lower kinks on.

 

[Sysop]

I generally back in close enough to extend and connect the PTO shaft first. Doing this leaves more room to operate, I see no need to connect links only to have a battle with the driveline... Then I keep the 3pt all the way down and back in towards the pins. I go to my right side adjustable side/tilt link and adjust it way down out of the way, then go to the left side and lift it up onto the pin, using the telescoping link end to complete lining it up. Having the right side extended down prevents it from catching on the right side pin so it is no hassle to lift the left into place. I go around to the right side and hold the link over while cranking the side/tilt link back up level where I can slip it onto the pin, also using the telescoping end as needed. After both lower links are connected I go to the controls and bump reverse to lock the lower links, then I attach and adjust the top link. Once it is on I raise the implement so it can swing side to side and I lean on it to find the center position and lock it into place...

I've found these types of alignment bars to be the go-to tool for rotating implement drivelines, lining up pin or bolt holes, and would probably work wonders getting OP's turnbuckles moving under load:
30" Alignment Pry Bar

Mine is painted bright red to match my tractor





(actually it was the only color of paint I had handy that wasn't a color easily lost in my field)

 

[kubotacres]

There has to be some kind of a secret to adjusting the turnbuckles on the lower arms!

On the L2501, I removed the finishing mower as I am done with it for now and put the bush hog on...or tried too. I adjusted some on the turnbuckle on the right side as it was rubbing on the inside of the right tire. Almost impossible to do when the implement is on and in somewhat of a bind. I slid the right side arm off the pin and adjusted the turnbuckle and could not get the arm back on the hog. I fought with that thing for about an hour adjusting and pushing the hog around with a pry bar. I finally just removed the vertical adjusting rod on that side and then could do the turnbuckle. Re-adjust the vertical rod and then it was ok. Is there an easier way to adjust the turnbuckle with the implement attached? Not much room to do anything with one of those. btw, it is adjusted for now so there is no bind, but I do not wish to go through that again with the next implement change. I am use to the old Ford 8N that I have and it uses stabilizer bars to hold the implement where it won't hit the tires. Much easier to use. I am not in love with the turnbuckle type right now. ugh! :confused2:

Spend another $175 and add these.... It was the best accessory I installed after purchasing my tractor.

 

[s219]

Spend another $175 and add these.... It was the best accessory I installed after purchasing my tractor.

I agree, I bought them for my L3200 and they are great. Wholegoods part # L8430. Messicks can order them if you want to purchase online.

 

[Leejohn]

I can't recall ever useing a pry bar to hook up anything. I let the tractor move the attachment after I hook up one pin. If you have your loader on it can also help you. Turn the bucket down and have it stright up and down, put some weight on it. Now you can use the loader to move the tractor fwd and back. It sure works great when hooking something on the draw bar. You can move the draw bar up and down and fwd or back.
I set and watch the guy across from me alot. It takes him 1 1/2 hrs to take his hay spear off and put a bush hog on and some times he doesn't get the bush hog on. He is not new to this it's been this way for18 years and he well not let you tell him how to do it. He just tell everyone that has tried to help " you guy think you know everything". So I let him keep working his a## off and watch.

 

[gwstang]

No more turnbuckles with the stabilizer kit?

 

[gwstang]

You have hit on one of the problems I am having. I am use to using the old 8N tractor and I can roll it back or forth a little quite easily for hookup. The Kubota doesn't roll so easily for hooking up.

 

[2458n]

Leejohn is doing it the easy way. If you have a front loader the spud bar can stay in the garage. My bottom links stay adjusted where they are. Everything is cat 1 so measurements do not change much. Let the tractor do the work.

 

[gwstang]

Thanks, I'll give your method a try when I have to change out again. I have rebuilt the engine on the old 8N and it has great power now, but I was having a problem with the "rebuilt" oil pump holding a prime between usages. I sent it to a good fellow who can rebuild this correctly for me, it is down until he can return it to me. Then I won't be having to swap out so much.

 

[k0ua]

What I don't understand is why you would have trouble adjusting the turnbuckles with the implement raised off of the ground. You can easily push any heavy implement a bit sideways with one hand to get the bind off of the turnbuckles, you can adjust with one hand. You weren't trying to adjust them while the implement was on the ground and in a bind were you? Yes turnbuckles are slow to adjust, and the telescoping stabilizers are much superior, but turnbuckles are not hard to adjust. If you have a hydrostatic transmission tractor you can leave it running at idle, and put your bucket down flat to keep it from drifting off, and if you need to pull up or back up a hair, just put your hand on the proper pedal to move it a tad.


Don't run over your foot though. With a gear drive tractor, you can use LeeJohn's method to curl/dump your bucket to move the tractor a bit.. I used to use that method when I ran gear drive tractors. I have never used or needed a prybar.

 

[tman1020]

Yes those pin type adjusters are way better than turn buckles, worth every penny.

 

[gwstang]

I'll give the loader bucket method a try too. Sounds too easy to be true...lol
I forgot to add that one of the reasons that I was having so much trouble was that I took the arm off of that side of the hog and had put a 4x4 block under it to keep it level, until I adjusted the turnbuckle, and had to use the cheater bar to push it back in a little and the side slipped off the block so the hog was now sitting quite un-level and of course the arm won't go down low enough to hookup. That is why I finally removed the leveling rod and could then could hookup. Generally just a cluster *#*#.

 

[gwstang]

I will certainly look into a pair. Thanks.

 

[k0ua]

You can move the tractor several inches forward and backward with just one finger pushing the joystick on the loader. Of course that wont move it sideways any. but if you back up correctly you don't need to move it sideways. but sometimes you do need to move the tractor fwd or rev. a bit. If you get one pin on, and the other side is still further back Just curl the loader bucket and it will move the tractor backward which will usually skew the implement towards the other lower link.

 

[oosik]

I have had hard times connecting implements. 99 times out of 100 this is because the implement was left in a non-level condition. If I would just take the time to ensure the location where I "drop" an implement is level - reconnection becomes much easier. I have a hydraulic top link and telescoping stabilizers which do help a lot. I always drop the link pin on the stabilizer anti-sway arms so the stabilizers are completely free swinging during hook up. Every little bit helps.

 

[gwstang]

"What I don't understand is why you would have trouble adjusting the turnbuckles with the implement raised off of the ground. You can easily push any heavy implement a bit sideways with one hand to get the bind off of the turnbuckles, you can adjust with one hand. You weren't trying to adjust them while the implement was on the ground and in a bind were you?"


The implement was on the ground. :ashamed: I'm going to have to adjust how I hook up to things, I guess.
Old tractors and new tractors and old tractor operators are just a bad mix. :confused2: