How to disconnect a box blade....

[danisiri]

So I have a noob question :ashamed::

How does one disconnect a box blade from the 3PH? I lower the implement onto the ground and I can disconnect the toplink, but the sidelinks are tight against the implement. I could hammer the pins out, but I don't know if that is normal to do or not, lol. I don't want to break something.

Any hints? Thank you!

 

[dusty3030]

Try blocking up the ends towards the edge closest to the tractor with some 4x4 or 6x6 scraps or some such. Lower the box blade so they support it in the front and gets it out of a bind. As you slowly lower your rockshaft lever watch your pins "relax" when you are lowering it down onto the blocks then stop. Your blade should be out of a bind at that point.

Also what is know as a handyman jack or farm jack is handy to have too - most popular brand is Hi Lift but you don't have to get that just so you can google and get an idea of what I am talking about. We used them a lot when I was a kid on the farm trying to hook up or unhook larger implements from big tractors.

 

[farmer2009]

It's set so that its in a bind when it's lowered. Adjusting the top link as you set it down to relieve the binding will make everything come apart a lot easier. Depending on how tight the pins fit it could take a few light taps from a hammer to drive them off. But it shouldn't be forceful.

 

[jenkinsph]

You need to figure out what is causing the hitch arms to be in a bind. Work with the tractor and implement to get slack in the pins, up, down, forward and reverse. If you think it is hard to unhitch expect the hitching up to be a lot harder to do. You can use a hammer but you need to remove the binding as much as possible first. Generally you can lower the 3ph arms down as they will float but you may have to raise them up by hand. If you have telescopic lower links it can make the process much easier. They allow for movement on the ends of the lower links to solve the hitching problems.

I use quick hitches to make things easier to hook and unhook, saves me a lot of grief.

 

[jenkinsph]

Dang, three responses in 6 minutes, where are all you guys when I have questions.

 

[danisiri]

Connecting the box blade was no problem as I do have telescoping side links. I will try messing with it a bit more to see if I can get some relief off the side links. I was going to wait to get the quick hitch, but I think I may get that sooner than later.

Thank you!

 

[JSanders10]

Do you have a stabilizer chain or arm that's too tight?

 

[nybirdman]

If you have the telescoping end links it sure is a lot easier.They should move up and down a bit as well as in and out.It will get easier with a little practice and a 2lb.hammer.

 

[JSanders10]

Quite honestly, I use a hammer quite often to loosen or remove the side arm, but there's always some 'give' to the arm anyway.

 

[Threepoint]

All good advice here. After a little experimentation with your particular setup, you'll have a pretty good idea of how to position each of your implements as you lower them for easier removal. With a box blade, it usually depends a lot on the "rake" of the end plates. The more worn they are on the bottom, towards the front, the more the BB will angle down at the front as it settles on the ground. That (and of course the level of the surface it's on) determines how much of a shim or shims you'll need under each end plate to minimize binding.

Quick-attach style hitches are great, but even then the implement needs to be oriented correctly to prevent binding and insure easy reattachment. If you'd like to investigate that option, I've found that the Harbor Freight quick-attach hitch is a good value for Cat 1 up to 45 hp. Around $80 on sale with 20% coupon.

 

[ustmd]

I found having a digging bar to help pry and adjust the implement helps a lot.

Ludell 50030 Heavy Duty San Angelo Bar Enamel Finish, 17lb, 72" Length: Precision Measurement Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Remember, some days you get the 3 pt attachment and some days the 3 pt attachment gets you.....

 

[k0ua]

Step 1. While implement is still raised, pull the pin on your telescoping stabilizers. You may need to "hip check" the implement to gain a little side to side slack to pull those pins out.
Step 2, lower the implement on the ground until you see slack in the top link. You may need to turn the top link jackscrew.
Step 3, pull out hitch pin keeper pins (clip pins?)
Step 4, step on telescoping lower link release levers. This will allow the lower links to extend if they need to as you slide the balls off of the draw pins on the implement.

There is very rarely any hammering or tapping or cursing necessary. The trick is, if it won't slide/fall off by itself, it is in a bind. Make it so it is not in a bind. The rear 3pt. Control on the Kioti's make this quicker, but other brands just require a trip around the tire to reach the 3 point handle.

 

[C4Ranch]

Wow, never had any problem taking it off and pins slide out by hand (I've got the type with handles on the end)

Drop box. Turn off tractor. Release all remote and 3pt pressure. Pull out.

 

[danisiri]

I should post some pics, lol, if I can't get it off.

 

[nybirdman]

Remember to take out the lower sway bar pins.............

 

[Leejohn]

This is the reason the pins are locking up, center line of the front pins on the lower link arms and the adjuster pins are not the same. It could keep the 3pt from going all the way up or all the way down, it could maybe brake the adjuster arms. As you go up and down you should be able to find the sweet spot that the pins are loose.

 

[chim]

I found having a digging bar to help pry and adjust the implement helps a lot.

Ludell 50030 Heavy Duty San Angelo Bar Enamel Finish, 17lb, 72" Length: Precision Measurement Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Remember, some days you get the 3 pt attachment and some days the 3 pt attachment gets you.....

Digging iron or SA bar is what I use for persuasion. I have what I'd call a "regular" digging iron with the long chisel on one end and tamper on the other. Last year I had a fair amount of digging that had to be done by hand. After reading about someone's experience with a San Angelo bar I bought one. It worked far better than my old digging iron. I painted it with some 'Bota orange paint to make it easier to keep track of and getting away from the black color I could pick it up and not burn my bare hands after it spent time in the sun.

 

[powerscol]

Step 1. While implement is still raised, pull the pin on your telescoping stabilizers. You may need to "hip check" the implement to gain a little side to side slack to pull those pins out.
Step 2, lower the implement on the ground until you see slack in the top link. You may need to turn the top link jackscrew.
Step 3, pull out hitch pin keeper pins (clip pins?)
Step 4, step on telescoping lower link release levers. This will allow the lower links to extend if they need to as you slide the balls off of the draw pins on the implement.

There is very rarely any hammering or tapping or cursing necessary. The trick is, if it won't slide/fall off by itself, it is in a bind. Make it so it is not in a bind. The rear 3pt. Control on the Kioti's make this quicker, but other brands just require a trip around the tire to reach the 3 point handle.

Great instructions, but if I could add one item. I find that at times I need to slack off on one of the lift arms (mine has an adjustable crank on one side) to take the bind off. Also be sure to grease up the ball joints and pins in the future - this helps in the binding too.

 

[powerscol]

Step 1. While implement is still raised, pull the pin on your telescoping stabilizers. You may need to "hip check" the implement to gain a little side to side slack to pull those pins out.
Step 2, lower the implement on the ground until you see slack in the top link. You may need to turn the top link jackscrew.
Step 3, pull out hitch pin keeper pins (clip pins?)
Step 4, step on telescoping lower link release levers. This will allow the lower links to extend if they need to as you slide the balls off of the draw pins on the implement.

There is very rarely any hammering or tapping or cursing necessary. The trick is, if it won't slide/fall off by itself, it is in a bind. Make it so it is not in a bind. The rear 3pt. Control on the Kioti's make this quicker, but other brands just require a trip around the tire to reach the 3 point handle.

Great instructions, but if I could add one item. I find that at times I need to slack off on one of the lift arms (mine has an adjustable crank on one side) to take the bind off. Also be sure to grease up the ball joints and pins in the future - this helps in the binding too.

 

[k0ua]

Great instructions, but if I could add one item. I find that at times I need to slack off on one of the lift arms (mine has an adjustable crank on one side) to take the bind off. Also be sure to grease up the ball joints and pins in the future - this helps in the binding too.

Good points.. Also need to mention, take off and put on implements on the hardest flattest ground you can find. If you can find concrete, that is best!. If you can put on implements on a dolly with wheels on a concrete floor that is better yet.