Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard

   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #21  
You will be disappointed. I mow for a guy, and use his cheap mower. I hate it, if I had a lawn mower trailer I would take my mower. I also have a Dixie chopper. On smooth flat ground it does good, but on hills I like my 4WD BX better My favorite mower is the F2560. My BX is an old one without power steering. I would like it better with power steering.
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #22  
image-1387222456.jpg I wish the F2560 was 4WD. It turns super sharp, and mows smooth.
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #23  
Unless you have a flat smooth yard, I think you will be wasting your money. I mow about 1 acre, maybe a little more that has some hills and also some weeds too. I started out with a cheap rider, tore it up in 4 years. I then bought a cheaper John Deere (a Scotts) at Lowes. It did OK but the yard had to be almost 100% dry or it slipped around a lot on the wet grass. I then bought my BX. I hung on to the Scotts thinking I would mow with it if it was dry out. I never touched it, I always used the BX. I finally sold the Scotts mower cheap to a co-worker.

If you have a rough a weedy yard, which most people that have bigger yards do, a cheaper mower probably won't do any better than a BX. If you got into a zero turn it would probably do a better job but you won't get into a good one for $2100.

One bad thing about a BX is they are pretty heavy. The front wheels smash down the grass. You can try mowing in different directions to help that some. I put a mulch kit on mine not long after I got it and that helps a little bit. For that $2100 you are looking at I'd spend it on weed killer or fetlizer instead, that will do more for your yard.
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #24  
A zero turn mower has tiny wheels, and rides rough. I use my BX for steep rough yards. I use the F2560 for large flat yards. I use the zero turn for small ( less than 1 acre ) yards. I also use the zero turn in the cemetery.
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #25  
Unless you have a flat smooth yard, I think you will be wasting your money. I mow about 1 acre, maybe a little more that has some hills and also some weeds too. I started out with a cheap rider, tore it up in 4 years. I then bought a cheaper John Deere (a Scotts) at Lowes. It did OK but the yard had to be almost 100% dry or it slipped around a lot on the wet grass. I then bought my BX. I hung on to the Scotts thinking I would mow with it if it was dry out. I never touched it, I always used the BX. I finally sold the Scotts mower cheap to a co-worker.

If you have a rough a weedy yard, which most people that have bigger yards do, a cheaper mower probably won't do any better than a BX. If you got into a zero turn it would probably do a better job but you won't get into a good one for $2100.

One bad thing about a BX is they are pretty heavy. The front wheels smash down the grass. You can try mowing in different directions to help that some. I put a mulch kit on mine not long after I got it and that helps a little bit. For that $2100 you are looking at I'd spend it on weed killer or fetlizer instead, that will do more for your yard.

Dodgeman you might have the exact experience I need to hear because although I have a BX2660 (2008) I never got the mid mount mower, because the hobby farm I bought in 2007 came with a 1993 17 hp Husqvarna , to cut the 2 or more acres of grass every ten days. The areas are mostly flat but a bit bumpy (moles and tough winters with red clay base) so that Ride mower takes a beating, I have welded the deck a few times and it is now on its last legs, I now need to decide between spending $2000 on a John Deere D105 or 110 ridng mower, (from JD dealer) Home Depot sells the same model D105 and D110 and they sell for cheaper , but I trust dealer more if I went that route.
Or I can spend $2000 on a rear mount finish mower and use the BX2660 , or last choice but still feasible is to buy the mid mount mower for my BX2660 . But that is last choice because I would have to take the mid mount mower off all the time because I use the FEL and the rottotiller or the woodchipper or Bushhog quite often

My wife prefers I buy a new riding mower so she can do it (twice a year maybe for the thrill).....but I worry it will shake the crap out of a new cheaper built machine like John Deere, also extra storage space needed for riding mower and extra maintenance..............and I suspect the new cheap model from John Deere do not have the traction to get up the odd hill I have if slightly wet dew on it. Only their $5000 models have posi track option.

So is it that much a pain in the neck to wrestle the midmount mower ? I assume it has to be on flat garage concrete floor to wrestle it on and off? I worry about leaving it on when in the bush using the FEL making ATV trails etc. Is taking FEl on and off as easy as pictures suggest...............I am leaning towards rear mount finish mower, but could be talked out of it. From budget persepctive they are all the same hit though I expect the rear mount finish mower would outlive any riding mower for same price. But weight of using BX on lawn with MMM or with rear mount might leave lots of mud tracks unless I wait for perfect dry conditions and that is rare until August.

your thoughts ?
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #26  
You guys are underestimating the weight of a good riding mower. Your BX weighs about 1,500 pounds, my F2560 weighs 1,500 pounds, and my Dixie chopper weighs 1,200 pounds. I have two Kubota B7100's one has a MMM mower. The other has a finish mower. The MMM is easier to mow with, and cuts a little cleaner. The finish mower can handle taller grass, and rougher terrain.
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #27  
Have used the loader, rototiller, and a brush hog on my BX without ever taking the mid mount mower off.

Did end up getting a second mower, the G2160 turns tighter than the BX and gets under trees easier as there is no ROPS but has the exact same 60 inch deck as the BX does.

The neighbor has 2 BXs with ROPS removed on both and mows with very good results.


David Kb7uns
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #28  
bump.........hoping Dodgeman and his BX experiences will jump in
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #29  
bump.........hoping Dodgeman and his BX experiences will jump in


Sorry, just saw your post.

The FEL removal, you get good at it, which I have, its a 3 minute job, 5 minutes if it doesn't go well. It took me 25 minutes the first time but it goes quicker each time.

My yard is pretty much similar to yours, moles make it rough and bumpy. I like the MMM. If you have a very open yard, a rear mount would work fine but I would hate to mow near stuff with one, the rear swings out when you turn sharp.

Taking it off and on. I don't like to do it but it only takes about 10 minutes, but its one of those jobs that seems to take longer than it does. Its not difficult, just awkward.

I usually leave my MMM on. It helps protect the fan and unless you get really crazy or get it stuck, it always works fine for me to leave it on.

I kept my Scotts mower for a couple of years after I got my BX, used it a couple of times but always went back to the BX.
 
   / Have BX2350, considering smaller riding mower for yard #30  
Thanks Dave ..........I would be taking the MMM off and probably whatever that week I have attached to the 3 point too and maybe the FEL, and doing that every ten days might get to be a hassle. I do presently have a homemade belly pan to protect the fan, and I am quite a bit on narrow ATV trails for bucket use, (firewood etc) and with a handicapped hand I don't like to hear that taking the MMM off is awkward because that is the kind of hassle my handicap hand gets trouble with. I think everyone has helped me realize I should go with the rear mount finish mower , in most cases I can leave the FEL on and I can make the shape of my lawn based on the swingout of the 60 inch rear mower. No matter what my lawn/weeds, will have to get used to the R4 tires in 2wd wearing them and the clay a bit, but having the ability to cut all three lawn areas with a 60 inch mower in one night instead of two or three , will allow me to pick and chose the right weather and dryness of lawn and just switch the 3 point implement at times (I got "Stabilizer" pin type now instead of the awkward turn buckles).So I think in May I will see what the dealer has for 60 inch rear finish mowers . (i think he said it was AgriEase) I can get one of those for less than $2400 and I doubt $2400 CDN gets me a decent riding JD mower that will last more than five years. In my parts a JD D110 runs $2400 and that is the same model the big box stores carry (so low end)
 

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