Ty 295 parts breakdown

[Tdog50]

Hi folks

Well I started noticing antifreeze in my oil. A little bit at first but now after sitting for a couple of weeks,alot. Would like to get my hands on a parts manual or some form of engine breakdown so I can start investigating my problem and order parts. Any help would be appreciated.



Tdog

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I would think Tommy at Affordable Tractor.

These engines are prone to blowing head gaskets and oil in the coolant is a classic symptom. I replaced mine without a manual, just started taking pieces off until the head came off. As I recall I took off the valve cover, valve train and loosened the head bolts. The water pump had to come off to get the head off, which necessitated taking off the radiator. I undid the hood supports to get it out of the way. I left the intake and exhaust manifolds on the head, just hoisted it in place, removed the old gasket and put the new one in.

The only parts needed were a new head gasket and gasket for the water pump. The gasket I got didn't fit my water pump so I ended up using gasket compound. I also replaced the thermostat while I had it apart, which meant a new gasket. And the little rubber donuts that hold the radiator were pretty distorted so I replaced them too, they were a buck apiece.

The only tricky part of reassembly was torquing the head bolts properly. They have to be torqued initially, and then run the engine to operating temperature, let it cool, and torque them again. Then do it again after 50 hours. Each time you torque them the valves have to be adjusted. My recollection is that the valves moved significantly when I retorqued, which indicates that the head gasket compressed substantially.

 

[td1howard]

What are the torque specs on the head? And what are the valve clearance specs? I am about to get into one.

 

[Tdog50]

I would think Tommy at Affordable Tractor.

These engines are prone to blowing head gaskets and oil in the coolant is a classic symptom. I replaced mine without a manual, just started taking pieces off until the head came off. As I recall I took off the valve cover, valve train and loosened the head bolts. The water pump had to come off to get the head off, which necessitated taking off the radiator. I undid the hood supports to get it out of the way. I left the intake and exhaust manifolds on the head, just hoisted it in place, removed the old gasket and put the new one in.

The only parts needed were a new head gasket and gasket for the water pump. The gasket I got didn't fit my water pump so I ended up using gasket compound. I also replaced the thermostat while I had it apart, which meant a new gasket. And the little rubber donuts that hold the radiator were pretty distorted so I replaced them too, they were a buck apiece.

The only tricky part of reassembly was torquing the head bolts properly. They have to be torqued initially, and then run the engine to operating temperature, let it cool, and torque them again. Then do it again after 50 hours. Each time you torque them the valves have to be adjusted. My recollection is that the valves moved significantly when I retorqued, which indicates that the head gasket compressed substantially.

Thanks Quicksandfarmer. Pulled the tractor home today Tommy didn't have a gasket or a breakdown but pointed me in the right direction. Just waiting for the gasket and the weather to cooperate. -20 celcius here right now.


Tdog50

 

[Tdog50]

What are the torque specs on the head? And what are the valve clearance specs? I am about to get into one.

Ok, so the weather has finally warmed up enough and the tractor is on firm ground , in a neighbours unheated garage but on a good cement slab. Will start pulling pieces of tomorrow. got a head gasket guess I will know as I go if I need to dig deeper. Maybe I will try to take the oil pan off first and pressurize the cooling system. Not sure if I can pull the pan off without splitting the tractor but its worth a try. Just the fact that there was quite a bit of antifreeze in the oil after sitting for awhile has got me thinking cracked block so a mechanic friend of mine suggested the coolant pressure test. Any one have any toughts on this. I am mechanically inclined but not a mechanic.

Tdog50

 

[zonta223]

Ok, so the weather has finally warmed up enough and the tractor is on firm ground , in a neighbours unheated garage but on a good cement slab. Will start pulling pieces of tomorrow. got a head gasket guess I will know as I go if I need to dig deeper. Maybe I will try to take the oil pan off first and pressurize the cooling system. Not sure if I can pull the pan off without splitting the tractor but its worth a try. Just the fact that there was quite a bit of antifreeze in the oil after sitting for awhile has got me thinking cracked block so a mechanic friend of mine suggested the coolant pressure test. Any one have any toughts on this. I am mechanically inclined but not a mechanic.

Tdog50

I would check with Tommy from Affordable Tractors. Some of the Chinese engines have bolts into the sump from inside the bell housing which means you have to split the tractor to remove it. A simple phone call could save you a lot of trouble. He provides great service.

 

[Tdog50]

Thanks for the reply Zonta223. Got the engine stripped down this morning should be able to pull the head off tomorrow. Will go from there. Can't use it this way anyways so might as well get to the bottom of it. Will call for parts as soon as I'm sure . Any input you guys may have is greatly appreciated.

Tdog 50

 

[quicksandfarmer]

On my Jinma removing the oil pan is just about the biggest job you can do. You basically have to remove the engine. The oil pan is bolted to the bell housing and the front axle. You have to split the tractor, then you have to lift the engine and disconnect the front axle.

Some Jinmas have an inspection port in the bottom of the oil pan, which is good if you want to replace the oil pump.

A blown head gasket can put plenty of coolant in the oil. I would replace the head gasket and then pressure test before taking anything else apart.

 

[Tdog50]

Did the head need much convincing to come off ?. Can't get mine to budge. Will have another look to see if I forgot something.


Tdog50

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Did the head need much convincing to come off ?. Can't get mine to budge. Will have another look to see if I forgot something.


Tdog50

I put a lag eye into a rafter and lifted it off with a come-along. So it wasn't nothing, but I didn't feel like I was about to pull the building down or even pull the lag out.

 

[Tdog50]

I put a lag eye into a rafter and lifted it off with a come-along. So it wasn't nothing, but I didn't feel like I was about to pull the building down or even pull the lag out.

Like I said I am mechanically inclined but not a mechanic lol. This one probably never been off. Got one side going by tapping a flat screwdriver along the edge of the gasket but the other side(valve side ) won't budge. I took the valve cover off, then the rocker arm then the head bolts . Took the rods out also. The valves and springs should remain with the head from what I see. Tried tying to the rafters but was pulling the whole front up.



Tdog50

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Like I said I am mechanically inclined but not a mechanic lol. This one probably never been off. Got one side going by tapping a flat screwdriver along the edge of the gasket but the other side(valve side ) won't budge. I took the valve cover off, then the rocker arm then the head bolts . Took the rods out also. The valves and springs should remain with the head from what I see. Tried tying to the rafters but was pulling the whole front up.



Tdog50

If you're lifting the tractor that's too much. Did you get all the head bolts? Half of them are outside the valve cover. On mine the water pump housing had to come off too.

 

[Tdog50]

Yes I'm pretty sure all the head bolts are off . three outside and five inside. Will look again this morning the thermostat housing is still on the engine so that maybe the problem.

Tdog50

 

[Tdog50]

Yes I'm pretty sure all the head bolts are off . three outside and five inside. Will look again this morning the thermostat housing is still on the engine so that maybe the problem.

Tdog50

Ok so the bolts weren't all off . There was two under the injector brackets that I did not see initially. Had to pull out the injector assemblies to get to the. Now the heads are off. The gasket I ordered seems to be a match. Will be away for the weekend and back to the tractor early Monday morning. Thanks for the help Quicksandfarmer.Also taking pics as I'm going along so it may help someone else down the road.

Tdog50

 

[Tdog50]

Ok so the head is back on. Do I need to torque the rocker arm bolts and adjust valve lash and what are the specs?



Tdog

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Ok so the head is back on. Do I need to torque the rocker arm bolts and adjust valve lash and what are the specs?



Tdog

You need to torque the head bolts, the rocker arm bolts and adjust the valves. For the head bolts and valves you have to find the specs for your engine. When reassembling an engine I use a torque wrench on every nut and bolt. If I don't have a spec I use this chart based on the size and grade of the fastener:
US & Metric Bolt Torque by Grade

Note that the sizes given are not the wrench size but the diameter of the shaft. My recollection is those rocker arm bolts took a 13mm wrench which would make them 8mm. If they're ungraded that's no more than 12 ft-lbs and 17 if they're grade 8.8. That's not a lot at all, it's easy to shear them off.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Here's info on torquing the head bolts:
JMretorque

You have to torque the head bolts before setting the valve lash. Then run the tractor for a few minutes until it gets to operating temperature, let it cool down, and do both steps again. At 50 hours, repeat both steps again.

 

[Tdog50]

Well can't find specs for the valve lash so will put the rest together for now and keep looking tonight. Thanks for all the info quicksandfarmer you've been very helpful.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I would call Tommy at Affordable and ask him what the valve lash is. Then scratch it in your valve cover.

Failing that, I would use the setting for the TY 395:
Chinese Tractor Maintenance/TY395 - Wikibooks, open books for an open world

These Chinese engines are all the same, except when they're not...

 

[Tdog50]

Well everything is back up and running. Thank you for your help Quicksandfarmer . Looks like it did the trick. Will re-torque at 50 hrs . While I was at it I put in new filters everywhere and purged my hydraulic system.

Tdog