Worst factory headlight design

GolfAddict · Mar 3, 2015

Sodo said:
Sorry for off-topic but it can help the issue at hand.

I think this was determined to be an urban legend. All you need is clean hands. I wonder if MFRs leave it on their instructions hoping the consumer might accept responsibility for the case where bulb life was very short. Or cuz they can't trust the installer to have clean hands.

Off topic or not, now I have to ask why you can't touch a headlight, or maybe you can but only with clean hands???

3930dave · Mar 3, 2015

Sodo said:
Sorry for off-topic but it can help the issue at hand.

I think this was determined to be an urban legend. All you need is clean hands. I wonder if MFRs leave it on their instructions hoping the consumer might accept responsibility for the case where bulb life was very short. Or cuz they can't trust the installer to have clean hands.

Sylvania is pretty good about warranty, 1 year here.

Got in the habit of avoiding the bulb glass years ago (stage-lighting). If the bulb runs hot enough (H7s seem to self-destruct fast, even when handled immaculately), a bit of skin-oil contamination can do it in.

Halogen lamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I usually put on new nitrile gloves when doing bulbs. If the glass is contaminated, just clean it well with pure rubbing alcohol.

Can't wait for LEDs to come down in price, that is the best solution for these "optimized" headlight pods.

Rgds, D.

dodge man · Mar 3, 2015

I have a 2004 2500 Ram and also had a older Concord, similar to an Intrepid. Yep, very poor design. On the Ram I did switch in some of the high dollar Silverstar light bulbs and re aimed them and that helped a lot.

DFB · Mar 3, 2015

Even my old Durango is way more work than necessary to change a bulb. If your contortionist you can get at the drivers side from inside the engine compartment but the battery is definitely in the way.

My lenses are all yellowed now should I just replace them like in the video or try to clean them in someway?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MntXOWA-fR8

3930dave · Mar 3, 2015

DFB said:
Even my old Durango is way more work than necessary to change a bulb. If your contortionist you can get at the drivers side from inside the engine compartment but the battery is definitely in the way.

My lenses are all yellowed now should I just replace them like in the video or try to clean them in someway?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MntXOWA-fR8

Grey tube Flitz will work. The guys at my buddy's shop have found one or 2 products that work even better for cleaning yellow head light lenses, just can't remember the names at the moment.

I've seen 3M lens cleaning kits on the retail shelf. Haven't tried them, but have never been disappointed with other 3m products I've used.

Rgds, D.

DFB · Mar 3, 2015

3930dave said:
Grey tube Flitz will work. The guys at my buddy's shop have found one or 2 products that work even better for cleaning yellow head light lenses, just can't remember the names at the moment.

I've seen 3M lens cleaning kits on the retail shelf. Haven't tried them, but have never been disappointed with other 3m products I've used.

Rgds, D.

Flitz now that's one I don't have.. darn I do have several Turtle Wax buffing compounds plus some Simi Chrome, and Mother's metal cleaners Novus plastic cleaners, and Harley Davidson and Meguiars liquid polishes. That HD stuff works great on my fiberglass shower

Thanks for the tip.

New lens covers aren't cheap

Stimw · Mar 3, 2015

It's a 10 minute job to change the headlight bulb on my 04 Silverado!
You remove a pin and the whole assembly comes out. Then you can even get to the running/turn/marker bulbs.

JJZ 109 · Mar 4, 2015

3930dave said:
I remember that setup.

Might just be me, but I find metal parts (even with Canadian rust on 'em) typically less irritating than many all-plastic assemblies - I hate going hunting for replacement plastic fasteners.

Rgds, D.

I'm not far across the border from you, we've got the same rust. I can drive 12 miles or less, take a ferry to Wolfe Island, drive across and take another into Kingston. (In season, of course. The ferry on this side doesn't operate in winter.)

Sodo said:
Sorry for off-topic but it can help the issue at hand.

I think the "never touch a halogen bulb with finger oils etc" was determined to be an urban legend. It has something to do with uneven temperatures due to the glass can cause the tungsten to re-deposit in the wrong place, causing thinner sections of filament then burning out there (sooner). It was determined that halogen bulbs always redeposits unevenly, that lifetime difference between touched and untouched bulbs were not measurable. Wikipedia doesn't mention the re-depositing theory but says that contaminants on a quartz bulb can cause the bulb to explode. I've never seen that, they only burn out.

All you need is clean hands - wash hands before handling the bulb. I wonder if MFRs leave it on their instructions hoping the consumer might accept responsibility for the case where bulb life was very short. Or cuz they can't trust the installer to have clean hands.

I don't know about urban legend, but the bulbs I just upgraded in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor beater contained instructions specifically stating not to touch the glass with fingers.

LD1 · Mar 4, 2015

I guess I sould consider myself fortunate that I have never had a difficult bulb to change. My saturn, and 05 dodge truck are pretty easy to get to.

Not sure on my wifes car. Never had to change one. But the spark plugs.......Half a day job that requires removing the intake manifold and lots of other crap. 2008 nissan sentra with 2.0L.

I elected not to change them when recommended. Instead I will change them if there is ever an issue.

Mace Canute · Mar 4, 2015

Sodo said:
Sorry for off-topic but it can help the issue at hand.

I think the "never touch a halogen bulb with finger oils etc" was determined to be an urban legend. It has something to do with uneven temperatures due to the glass can cause the tungsten to re-deposit in the wrong place, causing thinner sections of filament then burning out there (sooner). It was determined that halogen bulbs always redeposits unevenly, that lifetime difference between touched and untouched bulbs were not measurable. Wikipedia doesn't mention the re-depositing theory but says that contaminants on a quartz bulb can cause the bulb to explode. I've never seen that, they only burn out.

All you need is clean hands - wash hands before handling the bulb. I wonder if MFRs leave it on their instructions hoping the consumer might accept responsibility for the case where bulb life was very short. Or cuz they can't trust the installer to have clean hands.

Reminds me of National Lampoon's 1964 High School Yearbook parody in which Maria Teressa Spermatzoa was credited with a similar saying..."Did you wash your hands?"

DavesTractor · Mar 4, 2015

Stimw said:
It's a 10 minute job to change the headlight bulb on my 04 Silverado!
You remove a pin and the whole assembly comes out. Then you can even get to the running/turn/marker bulbs.

Same on our 2006 GMC 2500HD. Open hood, pull two pins and the headlight assembly lifts out.

GLyford · Mar 4, 2015

'85 Ranger...entire grille had to be removed because headlight openings were too small for the sealed bulbs. Not difficult, just annoying.
2000 Jetta needed the battery cover, radiator support cover, and the gasketted and double-clamped headlight access panel removed before you could get to the actual lamp holder (and for whatever reason, it always seemed to be the driver side with the battery that went) all in a very tight space. It also ate taillight bulbs.
'96 Ranger was easy, just reach in and grab it, from above or below.
Haven't had to do one yet in my '03 F-150, so I just looked that up...two pull tabs, pull assembly forward to access bulb holder. Cool.

Winmac · Mar 4, 2015

05 vw golf is a pile of misery

GolfAddict · Mar 4, 2015

Winmac said:
05 vw golf is a pile of misery

I know I shouldn't laugh, but the way you put that just cracks me up.

Winmac · Mar 4, 2015

What should have been five minutes to change a single high beam bulb turned into 30-40 mins in the baking sun.
Your working blind to begin with I somehow managed to knock the bulb retainer clip off and it fell down inside that headlight bucket, I had to finish the job with haemostats.

3930dave · Mar 4, 2015

LD1 said:
I guess I sould consider myself fortunate that I have never had a difficult bulb to change. My saturn, and 05 dodge truck are pretty easy to get to.

Not sure on my wifes car. Never had to change one. But the spark plugs.......Half a day job that requires removing the intake manifold and lots of other crap. 2008 nissan sentra with 2.0L.

I elected not to change them when recommended. Instead I will change them if there is ever an issue.

Yep, another boffo design trend, worthy of a thread itself. (Not complaining

).

Design engines allegedly for economy, then make it enough of a PITA that many DIYers won't attempt it, and most drivers won't voluntarily pay a shop to do it........... End result, you end with plugs in so long that a modern hi tek engine ends up getting about the same mpg as an old 4 banger, running a carb.

Progress ? :confused3:

As good as modern plugs are, IMO, this scenario plays a big role in taking out (killing) COP coils early.

Not like the factory engineers didn't know how this would play out....

Rgds, D.

3930dave · Mar 5, 2015

Winmac said:
What should have been five minutes to change a single high beam bulb turned into 30-40 mins in the baking sun.
Your working blind to begin with I somehow managed to knock the bulb retainer clip off and it fell down inside that headlight bucket, I had to finish the job with haemostats.

Here's hoping the hemostats were for part retrieval, not for clamping off leaks in your hide !

Rgds, D.

3930dave · Mar 5, 2015

DavesTractor said:
Same on our 2006 GMC 2500HD. Open hood, pull two pins and the headlight assembly lifts out.

That is how I'd expect any competent ME to design....... though, as somebody (real-world) told me lately "Your expectations are seriously out of control".

Seems that era of GM engineers either got fired for doing too good a job, or where made to drink the bean-counters Koolaid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oKyanoXa70

Billable shop-time seems to be the priority now.

That vid reminded me of another reason I hate plastic assemblies. Around here, we lose more bulbs when it's cold...... just the kind of weather plastic fasteners love.

Rgds, D.

3930dave · Mar 5, 2015

GLyford said:
'85 Ranger...entire grille had to be removed because headlight openings were too small for the sealed bulbs. Not difficult, just annoying.
2000 Jetta needed the battery cover, radiator support cover, and the gasketted and double-clamped headlight access panel removed before you could get to the actual lamp holder (and for whatever reason, it always seemed to be the driver side with the battery that went) all in a very tight space. It also ate taillight bulbs.
'96 Ranger was easy, just reach in and grab it, from above or below.
Haven't had to do one yet in my '03 F-150, so I just looked that up...two pull tabs, pull assembly forward to access bulb holder. Cool.

Some companies today will put 1,000's of engineering hours into the infotainment systems on vehicles.

A second year Engineering student should be able to prototype a workable headlight retainer in about a day.

Priorities.

Rgds, D.