Easy outs

[jcummins]

I've used them several times before....but I've got a really stubborn one now.

Bought a used flagpole...pretty decent one....and the ball on the top has broken off. I need to get the stud left out. I'm thinking I'll be forced to drill this to size and retap, but before I do.

I've used vise grips, pipe wrench, and a large crescent wrench, which has worked best, but I cannot get anything to hold to the easyout tight enough. I'm wanting to put an air wrench to it, but what to use. This has a square end on it, and I can get a 6 sided socket to fit, but not right, and it slips. Anyone with a solution?

 

[gundog10]

First, I would use a small wrench of appropriate size then I would heat the area around the stud with either a heat gun or carefully with a propane torch. The heat will expand the metal and make it easier to remove. Good luck.

 

[jcummins]

An 8mm fits. That wrench is so small, without a doubt I'd destroy the wrench. Need a square hole sized wrench that has enough beef to put some leverage on this. Heat....I will try that. BTW the broken stud is aluminum, and I think the top is also, I suspect this is galled together.

 

[tcartwri]

Anything more than a hand wrench and you will break the easy out. Which then becomes a will not come out. I suggest you drill and tap for a new stud.

 

[bcp]

You can get sockets for square nuts and bolts. They are usually 8 point.

I have never had success with extreme force on an easy-out. It either breaks or reams out the hole.

Bruce

 

[Dishpointer]

What size is the easy out? Couldn't you use the ratchet side of a socket that will fit the square hole of the easy out and use a hex heat bolt with double nuts tightened together and a corresponding wrench to turn it? Applying heat would help.

 

[doxford jim]

I would remove the easy out and re-drill and tap for a new screw. Turn the easy out clockwise and it should come out easy as it has a LH thread. This will save you a lot of headaches

 

[DFB]

8 point socket!

 

[jcummins]

It's a 3/8. I simply don't have anything that will fit that square easy out.

I can back out the easy out without issue. I may try a little heat, but thinking retap is my solution.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

I think you've found the reason your used flag pole was such a good deal

I wouldn't use anything larger than a 6" adjustable wrench on the EO. Every time I've tried to use brute force on an easy out it ends up broken off in the hole. Drilling hardened steel is a lot harder than drilling aluminum, and can put a whole new color into your day. I'd also make sure I was using a straight flute easy out, as the spiral ones tend to expand the stud as they draw themselves into the hole. That's the last thing you want.

But before I even tried to use the EO, I'd heat the assembly, apply a good penetrating oil such as Kroil or Liquid Wrench, and let it cool, repeating several times over several days. I'd try the EO every day, but never with enough force to strip the hole or break the EO. I might use a TIG welder to heat the stud and try to build up enough material to grab with a pair of vise grips. But knowing my luck I'd probably end up welding the stud into the hole

If I was in a hurry, I'd forget about using the EO and just drill and tap a larger hole in the original part. I'd take the time to make up a little drill guide to keep the hole from going crooked, though.

What ever you end up doing, good luck.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Maybe I am unlucky or clumsy but in my experience the easy out is more likely to become the problem than solve the problem.

 

[jcummins]

Heck this is minor, relative speaking. I could just leave it like it is. This is a $1200+ flagpole from a school for $200. I do consider it a good deal. I've been looking for 3 years for a used flagpole. Ones like this very hard to find.

Guys...I'm going to retap, not even going to try heat or anything. Think I'll be better off. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[SPIKER]

I have had best luck using the LEFT HAND DRILL BITS then drill them and most times the stud that si broken off unscrews as you drill it... The combination of heating and unscrewing direction works like a champ.

Otherwise as others said drill & re-tap or install a heli-coil.


Mark

 

[Sawyer Rob]

IF it was me, I'd take the easyout out, put a big enough nut over the bolt that the hole in the nut almost covers the broken off bolt, hold it in place, and use my welder to weld my way out, welding the nut to the end of the bolt.

Let it cool and use a wrench to turn the bolt out...

SR

 

[like2wheel]

IF it was me, I'd take the easyout out, put a big enough nut over the bolt that the hole in the nut almost covers the broken off bolt, hold it in place, and use my welder to weld my way out, welding the nut to the end of the bolt.

Let it cool and use a wrench to turn the bolt out...

SR

You read the part about the stud being aluminum right?

 

[pmsmechanic]

I would drill out the hole as straight as I can using a jig if possible. Then buy a heli-coil kit in the right size and install a heli- coil into the hole. Once the heli-coil is in you can install a bolt that's the same size only the hole is a lot stronger. Heli-coil kits are available at places like NAPA and Acklands.

 

[SandburRanch]

Aluminum is sticky but for the best easy out success two adjustable wrenches 180° apart works about 99 % better than one wrench. Grind flats on the EO to accommodate the second wrench. That just may be why the T handle tap wrench was developed.

For heat to be successful, the whole end of the pole needs to be heated on the outer periphery while there is pressure on the easy out, allowing the expansion to draw the pole from the bolt. If the small area where the bolt is only gets hot , it can't expand because the larger diameter hasn't expanded. This is true from small sheaves to 4 ft. diameter bull wheels.

 

[JRobyn]

What Striker said. A big left-hand-twist drill bit ain't cheap but is a VERY good thing to have around from time-to-time.

- Jay

 

[bcp]

I agree on the left-hand drill bits. I bought a set 6-8 years ago and haven't broken a bolt in a hole since then.



Bruce

 

[RedNeckGeek]

For heat to be successful, the whole end of the pole needs to be heated on the outer periphery while there is pressure on the easy out, allowing the expansion to draw the pole from the bolt. If the small area where the bolt is only gets hot , it can't expand because the larger diameter hasn't expanded. This is true from small sheaves to 4 ft. diameter bull wheels.

What you say is true, SandburRanch, but there are other factors at work. Just heating the parts enough may disrupt the oxidation that was causing them to seize, allowing them to separate after they cool. Spraying with a good penetrating oil while warm will draw the oil in as the part cools. Also, if you can heat the stud really vigorously, say with an oxy/acetylene or better yet a TIG torch, it'll try to expand but because it's restrained by the surrounding cold material, it'll plasticly deform and get smaller when it cools. Heating makes the material softer so it deforms more easily as it expands. Sometimes that's enough to break things loose. While you've got the welding outfit there, you might as well build up the stud enough to grab it with a pair of vise grips.