Building a "Log Horse?"

[Garandman]

Lots of ideas here: [GIS]

Yeah, I figured someone would say "LMGTFY" but as you can see from the results, most of them are for sale, not home made.

6x6 pressure treated is what I'm hearing.

 

[Garandman]

..I recently cut down a pine tree that was about 20" in diameter. I walked down both sides with my chainsaw and cut a broad V-shaped piece out of the length of it. Now, I just set the logs I want to buck onto that. If they're very heavy, I can put them there with the forks. Otherwise, it's pretty easy to lift one end on and then the other.

Very clever, sounds like it might work for me.

Turns out searching for "sawbuck" works better.

What I had in my head to make was something like these.

 

[arrow]

To me the key would not have to transition to anything and have the log remaining on the forks. To mitigate whacking the chainsaw against the metal forks and supporting the log for that last middle cut would be to dress the fork with 2x4's. As you only need the back part of the forks, you could "ramp' the 2 bys so the log rolls over onto the wooden dressed part while still maintaining the metal "slide under" part for the fork. Basically I'm saying you already have your "saw buck" Just do what is needed to safe guard the saw.

 

[Parkanzky]

To me the key would not have to transition to anything and have the log remaining on the forks. To mitigate whacking the chainsaw against the metal forks and supporting the log for that last middle cut would be to dress the fork with 2x4's. As you only need the back part of the forks, you could "ramp' the 2 bys so the log rolls over onto the wooden dressed part while still maintaining the metal "slide under" part for the fork. Basically I'm saying you already have your "saw buck" Just do what is needed to safe guard the saw.

I tried using my forks for a couple days, but found it annoying to have to walk back and forth while I cut to keep the log balanced. If I cut from one end, the log would tip off. When the log gets too short, it gets harder to keep on the forks and get the cut done. And there are inevitably times when you want to cut the log right where a fork is.

 

[s219]

Don't know why the forum messed up my photos earlier, but here they are again. Could not be a simpler thing to nail together from scrap lumber, and very beefy.

 

[Garandman]

S219, that should work for me, about how wide is it?

To me the key would not have to transition to anything and have the log remaining on the forks.

Doesn't really work, you wind up with rounds all over the place and the tractor in the way. And if you have help you tie up the tractor rather than getting another log.

 

[kirkawilson]

I use a forest master log tree horse mounted to the edge pole of my pole barn.

 

[bcp]

Had to look it up. Some interesting ideas there.

Saw horses and log holders for domestic and commercial use

Bruce

 

[arrow]

I tried using my forks for a couple days, but found it annoying to have to walk back and forth while I cut to keep the log balanced. If I cut from one end, the log would tip off. When the log gets too short, it gets harder to keep on the forks and get the cut done. And there are inevitably times when you want to cut the log right where a fork is.

That's where dressing the metal part with a 2 by comes in. The aspect of moving back and forth is mitigated with a "support" on the long side so you can stay where you are and finish one side and move to the next. I use a 4x4 for the support. It's where the "comfort" factor of the operator comes in. Whether you design a log horse or create things on the forks to use them, it's about the same amount of work energy to get where you want to be. Just a matter of personal preference rather than unsolvable circumstances and then being happy with the solutions which I guess is the most important part.

 

[arrow]

S219, that should work for me, about how wide is it?

Doesn't really work, you wind up with rounds all over the place and the tractor in the way. And if you have help you tie up the tractor rather than getting another log.

"Doesn't really work?" I'll tell myself that the next time I use the method with pretty good success. You have rounds spread out the length of the stem but the tractor gathers them up in seconds to one point near the splitter with no log horse in the way to gather them up..

 

[s219]

S219, that should work for me, about how wide is it?

Mine is about 4' wide, but mainly because I was using up scrap 8 footers of lumber and being cheap. It will hold a 7-8' log OK if balanced right, but you might want to go wider if you cut a lot of long logs and depending on your workflow. At the time, I had a B2920 and cut many of my logs at 4' so they'd fit in the front bucket. I'd skid a bigger 8-12' log behind the tractor and put 2-3 smaller 4' logs in the bucket on every trip out of the woods. At the end of my clearing work, I had a pile of about 50 4' sections and 15-20 8-12' sections. The 4' sawbuck made sense for that.

The only issue I remember is that sometimes it's hard to squeeze in between the uprights to make a cut if I have a short bar on my big saw. So think about access and spacing of the uprights.

Might almost make sense to only have tall uprights on the ends and provide shorter uprights in the middle, or some other means to cradle the cut rounds so they don't fall off the middle sections.

 

[Garandman]

Right now I'm planning on something like this one, four feet wide, out of pressure treated 2x4's.

 

[Parkanzky]

I think I'd add some ties at the bottom of that to keep it from trying to spread when you put heavy logs in it.

 

[s219]

I think I'd add some ties at the bottom of that to keep it from trying to spread when you put heavy logs in it.

Could, but the horizontals near the hinge line do that surprisingly well on mine. With one on each side, it doesn't budge, and I just have a few nail gun nails holding mine together. I guess a side benefit to this design is that if you bolt through the hinge line, it can fold up if needed.

 

[tcreeley]

There is always this: - 35 dollars before shipping
View attachment 406590
Ironton Wooden Handle Timberjack — 48in.L | Logging Hand Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Garandman]

OK, knocked it together pretty quickly. Used three 2x4x8 and two 1x4x8 pressure treated lumber and some 5/16ths by 4" bolts. Total cost was $22. I made the legs 42" instead of 36" and the width 48". Offset the center section slightly so I could cut pieces in the middle. Also marked the cross pieces with a marker for 15" pieces I use for the stove and 18" for the fireplace.

I think I'd add some ties at the bottom of that to keep it from trying to spread when you put heavy logs in it.

I drilled some holes at the bottom of the legs so I can put lines through if necessary. I think I'm going to want to add diagonal braces to make it stronger.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I think I'd put a piece of chain (like on a cheap kids swing) on the bottom of each end leg to keep the legs from spreading. That way it would still fold easily.

I think the diagonals are a good idea.

 

[beeforty]

Lots of these cheap in thrift stores. Take off the swinging foot pieces, drop your log in, and saw. You could have several in line for long logs.

View attachment 406303

Bruce

Exactly what I have, only mine was free setting on the side of the road. Plastic foot holder was broke and someone didn't want it anymore. Plus the handles slip right over the pipe handles on my wheel barrow giving me more leverage when I have to use it instead of the loader on the tractor. A real twofer!:thumbsup:

 

[Garandman]

Never seen one before, but I'm all set now, anyway.

 

[Rio_Grande]

There is always this: - 35 dollars before shipping <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/406590-building-log-horse-38676_700x700-jpg"/> Ironton Wooden Handle Timberjack &#151; 48in.L | Logging Hand Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

We have one of these, it absolutely wrecks my back to cut using it. Love it for rolling logs though.