Hydrostic transmission power?

/ Hydrostic transmission power? #1  

windcatcher

Gold Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2014
Messages
281
Location
North Carolina
Tractor
Farmall Cub, John Deere 322 w/ scrape blade & 48" mower, JB JR bucket, Simplicity LandLord DLX, Haban 3 pt hitch Sickle bar Mower, Lemon LS XR3032H
Hey folks,

I have a new LS XR3032H. I have about 42+/- hours on the tractor. So far, I'm liking it a lot.

Mine has the FEL and backhoe options.

About a month and a half after purchasing the tractor, I was starting to so some digging with the backhoe. Mainly digging up old clothes line steel "T" posts that had been cemented into the ground.

It had been fairly dry, then rained some before the digging. When I started to dig, my tractor strained to even begin to break the ground. I was puzzled, but I've never had a hydrostatic tractor before and certainly a backhoe.

As it turned out, there was hydraulic fluid spraying my backside from under the driver's seat. The dealer came by, checked it and took my tractor in for repairs. He returned it in a few days, and I thought everything was ok.

Several weeks went by, and because I couldn't find time to use the tractor, it sat. Then, I cut some crepe myrtle trees down - the largest in diameter being less than four inches. I started to haul them off behind the old pond dam, and due to this past winter's damage from the ice storm, my pile of branches, etc grew.

At one point in time when I was off loading some of the branches, I started to back out from behind the pond dam. The tractor stopped dead in its tracks. I had it in four wheel drive, and in the "M" range. I pulled forward and noticed a branch about three maybe four inches in diameter getting stuck under the driver's right side tire. The branch was about four feet long, but not near long enough to get under more than one tire. It also wasn't getting hung up on anything under the tractor.

Try as I might, this tractor would start to back up and stop dead in its tracks. Finally, I pulled forward enough to get off the branch, left the tractor with the parking brake on, and pulled the branch out from under the tractor. Remounted the tractor, and the tractor backed right out of that spot. Strange?

About a week went by, and I tried to dig the crepe myrtle stumps out of the ground. This time it was fairly wet because of recent rains. It took me about 5 hours to dig 6 crepe myrtles and 1 forsythia bush out of the ground. Again, because I'm new to this, I had nothing else to compare it to.

Two weeks later, I had a tandem truck load of double ground leaf mulch delivered to cover up the holes from the crepe myrtles. As I was driving forward with the bucket (FEL) slightly tilted, I would get maybe 3/4's a bucket full, and the tractor would stall out and die. This happened over and over. It's like the tractor doesn't have enough ummmmmmh in the hydraulics to do the job.

As I said, I'm new to this, and this tractor is brand new. Is anyone else with a hydraulic drive tractor experiencing what I am?

I had the dealer pick up the tractor again and it has been returned. He hasn't called, sent me an e-mail or anything about what the diagnosis was. Plus, he's sold his business and is retiring, so I'm wondering if I'm not getting left out in the cold.

Opinions? Suggestions? I'm all open right now for suggestions. This is a very expensive piece of equipment and I don't want to get stuck.

Thanks in advance.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #2  
Any HST tranny sized correctly should spin the tires on a CUT. Not familiar with LS but possible in "M" mid-range you don't have enough power available to the drive wheels to spin them. Have you tried shifting into into low range to see how the tractor performs.

I know on my Kubota BX and my current Branson 2400H they would not spin the wheels in high range with decent traction.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Any HST tranny sized correctly should spin the tires on a CUT. Not familiar with LS but possible in "M" mid-range you don't have enough power available to the drive wheels to spin them. Have you tried shifting into into low range to see how the tractor performs.

I know on my Kubota BX and my current Branson 2400H they would not spin the wheels in high range with decent traction.

Good point. No, I haven't tried in the low position yet. I'll try it tomorrow and see what happens. Because of work, I'm only able to play on weekends. Sometimes the weekends have to span several weeks before I get to use the tractor. Sometimes good, sometimes not so good.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #4  
Do you have the engine PRMs up to PTO speed? Contrary to what some folks will tell you, you need higher engine RPMS on a hydrostatic tractor. Consult your owner's manual for the proper speed to run your engine. My old IH2500b from the late 70s specifically said to run the engine at PTO speed for maximum power, braking and cooling.

So, I'd say run the engine RPMs up to PTO speed, put it in low range and give it a test on the same things you were doing when you had a lack of power and see if that makes a difference. If not, there's probably something wrong with the tractor. Whatever you do, get the tests done while its still in warranty. Don't wait. Especially with a dealer that is quitting the business.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #5  
What RPM's are you running at?
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
What RPM's are you running at?

Just checked the tach. I was running between 1500 and maybe 1700 rpms. I wanted to break the tractor in gently.

MossRoad, I hear you. That's why I'm asking the questions like I am. This is too expensive a toy/tool for there to be something wrong with it.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #7  
First, check your hydro unit fluid level. You had a leak that the dealer fixed. Make sure he returned the unit to you with proper oil level.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
First, check your hydro unit fluid level. You had a leak that the dealer fixed. Make sure he returned the unit to you with proper oil level.

Good point. I keep it checked. I even power washed the entire tractor to remove as much fluid and gunk as I could so I should be able to see if there is another leak or the prior one persisted.

I try to check all the fluids before starting the tractor or any of my equipment for that matter. I've seen too many people start OPE up without checking the oil, and then it was, "uh, oh!" Too late now.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #9  
I am surprised that dealer didn't cleanup tractor prior to returning to you? Time to find a new dealer?

Good luck!

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #10  
Sounds like you are mashing the pedals to hard, ease them down and back off when engine starts to pull down.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I am surprised that dealer didn't cleanup tractor prior to returning to you? Time to find a new dealer?

Good luck!

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

This last time the tractor was returned dirty and with a partial FEL bucket of cow manure in it. I think you're right, time to get another dealer.

I had planned on working with the tractor some this past weekend, but other things managed to get in the way. Pre-turkey day stuff, you know how that goes. Five minutes turns into three hours, etc.

I'm really hoping to get some time on the tractor during the holidays. I need to get the trees trimmed up we dropped.

Whis, I'm pressing down on the pedals just a little bit at a time. I think it may be a deal of having the tractor in the "M" drive and not the "L" drive. If so, plowing is not going to be fun at all. "L" is really, really slow. It that rate, I'd be better off just plowing with my Farmall Cub.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #12  
I had the G3033H before I moved up to the XR4046HC and with the 3033H it would stall out at idle (1500rpm) when I tried to work it or even just trying to go up hills in Medium or High Range. I found I had to be up around 2000-2200 for doing most jobs and up around 2300-2400 for heavy work. Even my 4046HC will stall out if your not giving it enough power or in the wrong range. Try bumping up the throttle and putting it in Low range and see if that helps.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #13  
I agree with PDL14. More rpms. Then you'll still probably hafta go to L range when trying to fill the bucket with hard material or dig a hole with the FEL.

My Brother had a Kubota L3240HST. When he sold it the new buyer tried to drive it up on a deckover GN trailer with ramps in M range. It wouldn't climb the ramps. It was wayyyyy under powered to do any heavy work in M or H range. I think manufacturers try to fill every market niche. A 32HP tractor, with HST, Backhoe and sufficient FEL to offset the hoe was a poor idea on their part in my opinion. IN your case you need an additional 15HP. Or as "The Fred" did, add a turbo.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power?
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Ok, here's the update. Dealer picked up my tractor and worked it really hard. Apparently there was a fair amount of air in the system after the initial hydraulic leak under the driver's seat due to a poorly seated banjo bolt. Previous dealer has since then sold his business and retired lock, stock and barrel.

The new dealer was at my place yesterday performing my first 50 hour service. He told me about the air in the system and that he wanted to keep a close watch on the tractor. He seems to be an upfront and honest person. He didn't charge me for the labor, just for the parts. I figured that was fair enough.

I have not had enough time to mess with the tractor since it was picked up the last time. I work a regular job and I'm on the road most of the day during the week. By the time I get home, the weather has socked us in again with rain, and that makes the ground soft. About any tractor should be able to dig soft soil, but it takes some power to dig hard, red clay.

"IN your case you need an additional 15HP. Or as "The Fred" did, add a turbo. " My tractor came with a turbo on it from the factory, so I think I should be in good shape there. I hope so at least.

Sorry to be late in responding, but trying to drive and type on a computer page just isn't my forte. Thanks for the information guys. This is my first hydrostatic tractor of this size, and it's taking some getting used to.

On the bright side of things, there are a bunch of saplings out behind the pond dam that don't reside there anymore. The tractor had no problem ripping them up out of the ground when it was wet. :laughing::thumbsup::cool2:

Happy Saturnalia everyone!
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #15  
Is it possible that you are using the forward and backward peddles as a gas pedal? In other words is there any chance that you press the pedal down harder if you are in a bind or as the tractor bogs down? On a hydrostatic tractor pushing down on the pedal is sort of like going into a higher gear and exactly backwards of what you want when you are trying to get more power out of it. Just a thought. Good luck.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #16  
"IN your case you need an additional 15HP. Or as "The Fred" did, add a turbo. " My tractor came with a turbo on it from the factory, so I think I should be in good shape there. I hope so at least.

Evidently not.... :(
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power?
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Is it possible that you are using the forward and backward peddles as a gas pedal? In other words is there any chance that you press the pedal down harder if you are in a bind or as the tractor bogs down? On a hydrostatic tractor pushing down on the pedal is sort of like going into a higher gear and exactly backwards of what you want when you are trying to get more power out of it. Just a thought. Good luck.


Hadn't thought about that part. I have tingling sensations in the toes of my right foot, and I don't always notice how far I'm pressing the pedals. I'll try to pay attention the next time I'm able to work the tractor.

BTW Prof. Marvel, I lived just outside Culpeper back in 1983. Worked for Delmonte Frozen Foods near UVA back then. Great area!. And, no. Don't pay attention to the man behind the curtain.

Pay attention to what's in front of you instead. :laughing:

On the RPMs someone else suggested. I'll try that now that I've passed my initial 50 hr break in period. I'm sure I kept the RPMs below 2000 because of what I read in the book. Oh yeah. First 50 hr oil change and oil filter change didn't show any perceptible silver shavings in the oil. I'm happy about that part!

Ovrszd: There's one in every peanut gallery. Cheers!
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power? #18  
That's pretty cool. We just missed you. We moved here at the end of 1984 and have owned a small country store for 30 years.
You wouldn't recognize the place.
I don't know how well I explained myself. The motor is running the same speed but the fluid is flowing faster. This effectively causes the wheels to cover more distance with the motor at the same speed which to me is the same as changing to a higher gear and dragging down the power. When I am dragging my grader blade up hill I can sometimes feel it bogging down my motor and I have to ease back on the pedal to regain power. likewise on some long hills on the road I need to back off on the pedal if I don't want to shift to a lower gear.
 
/ Hydrostic transmission power?
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Bit of an update: I've had a little more time to work with the tractor. It was down for a little while getting the 50 hour first maintenance done. It really takes some time to get the 1st servicing done. I dread the 250 hr as that's when the hydro fluid has to be changed too. I did learn a lot from my new dealer doing my 50 hr maintenance. He bought the dealership the other dealer retired from, so things are getting better.

It does appear there was a good bit of air still in the system after the original hydro leak appeared. The backhoe continued to display weaknesses as well as the tractor seeming sluggish when under power. The more it was driven and worked the stronger each part seemed to become.

We had plenty of rain during the holidays so this gave me time to get the maintenance done. When finished, I had a few smallish stumps to dig up. Yes the ground was mush, but the stumps had good sized lateral roots to dig through. This time the tractor seemed to dig well enough. I popped four stumps up in all. One of them had four trees in that one cluster. It didn't want to come out at first, but the LS won that battle.

I've learned to use a chain on the welded hooks to the upper bucket lip to move the stumps to a dumping area on the back side of the pond dam. I'm amazed at how much work I'm getting done with this tractor. I really feel like I've made a good business decision in buying this tractor. I hope it continues to deliver as it already has. The back side of the pond dam is now a nice place to walk and we hope to have a couple of small vegetable gardens back there this year.

Thanks for the suggestions folks. They've helped a lot.
 

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