instant dark helmet specs

[ron45]

I'm not really a welder I just have some of the stuff cuz I live in the boonies. Looking at helmets, the specs are all over the place and in different formats. I'm not much of a math guy. There is a spec of 0.1ms on a 3M Speedglass v100, I've seen 1/20,000th of a second, and 1/25.000. Isn't 0.1ms 1/100th of a milisecond which is.... I think one one thousandth of a second. Now this seems like the smaller number than the first two. Another important question is how fast is fast enough to protect your eyes? I have a dink welder that puts out 125 amps wide open. Someone told me I should use 1/16" rod and stay with steel 1/4 inch thick or less.

So should I stay with 1/16" rod? I usually use 6011. What about that math? It also says you get one darknss setting shade 10. Is that an ok spec for my welding needs? Thanks for your time.

Ron

 

[Soundguy]

.1 is 1/10

.01 is 1/100

 

[rswyan]

I think the UV (ultra-violet) and IR (infra-red) protection is present at all times (darkened or not) ... so the response time may be a moot issue in that regard. Obviously faster is better, in terms of getting flashed.

As far as as the darkness of the shade, most of the auto-darkening helmets are user adjustable via a dial ... I think my Hobart goes from 8 or 9 up to 13 or 14 ...

 

[Soundguy]

mine is the same. 9-14 or so

 

[CNC Dan]

as others have said, full IR and UV protection at all times, darkened or not. So just get one you can afford.
I like the ones from Harbor Freight.

 

[ron45]

Sound Guy, CNC Dan, RS Wyan I appreciate the help. I had no idea UV and IR protection were already there. I'm curious if it is assumed that just plain glass will do that. Or is there something to add to the heap of what I don't know about welding?

I live off grid in a passive/active solar adobe. We use bubble pac as roll up insulation on 30 of double pane and tempered patio door replacement glass. I can tell you there is something coming thru the glass the makes the bubble pac brittle after a year or so. I was pretty much discounting the 39.00 models mostly out of fear for my retinas. I'll have to give those another look. I guess it depends on what the 'already there protection is.

One last thing. When I came to check today to see if there were any replies, there was just this little green icon where the reply number would normally be. More stuff I don't know..... Thanks everyone.

Ron

 

[Soundguy]

i've been using a 35$ HF one for years and years. Beats the heck out of a head nodder.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

I'm not really a welder I just have some of the stuff cuz I live in the boonies. Looking at helmets, the specs are all over the place and in different formats. I'm not much of a math guy. There is a spec of 0.1ms on a 3M Speedglass v100, I've seen 1/20,000th of a second, and 1/25.000. Isn't 0.1ms 1/100th of a milisecond which is.... I think one one thousandth of a second. Now this seems like the smaller number than the first two. Another important question is how fast is fast enough to protect your eyes? I have a dink welder that puts out 125 amps wide open. Someone told me I should use 1/16" rod and stay with steel 1/4 inch thick or less.

So should I stay with 1/16" rod? I usually use 6011. What about that math? It also says you get one darknss setting shade 10. Is that an ok spec for my welding needs? Thanks for your time.

Ron

0.1ms = 1/10,000 = 0.0001 of a second

0.05ms = 1/20,000 = 0.00005 of a second

0.04ms 1/25,000 = 0.00004 of a second

 

[seymojo536]

Just for reference;

Blink of eye:

100 - 400ms = 1/10 - 4/10 = 0.1 - 0.4 seconds

 

[woodskiff]

Ron45, My son and I started taking a welding course. We both settled on the manual Jackson Shadow basic, because of the lens size. However, on a "let's try it, what the heck chance, we went to Northern Tool , Well-Bilt, for $35 bucks. All I'll say is AWESOME! Do yourself a favor, check it out , read the reviews. Good Luck

 

[roadhunter]

Nothing against the guys who do use cheap helmets but when it comes to protecting your vision I think that is an area where extra $ should be spent instead of trying to save $ by buying the cheapest hood available and expecting it to protect you eyes the same way a $200+ helmet does.

You only get 1 set of eyes, take good care of them.

 

[Silvic]

Nothing against the guys who do use cheap helmets but when it comes to protecting your vision I think that is an area where extra $ should be spent instead of trying to save $ by buying the cheapest hood available and expecting it to protect you eyes the same way a $200+ helmet does.

You only get 1 set of eyes, take good care of them.

I have to agree. I had a Longevity helmet, nice helmet but parts for it were a bear, their new ones supposedly better but parts still very expensive. I got a Striker Stealth CSV Welding Helmet from USA weld (sale price $159.95). Several review available on YouTube. Parts are more common sizes thus can get aftermarket cover lenses but the clarity of the lens versus the Longevity was night and day. Could not believe the difference. Longevity cover lenses were very expensive and the head gear was not available to replace. Had to modify the helmet to accept new replacement headgear. Not bad mouthing the one but I will never go back. You get what you pay for, don't go nuts and overboard ($400-600) but don't get the cheapest either. Seeing the puddle is what it is all about. The clarity of one helmet lens over the other other is eye popping. (pun intended)

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I tried 1 of the helmets that cost about $180, it doesn't hold a candle to a nice Miller that I have at work.

 

[Soundguy]

Nothing against the guys who do use cheap helmets but when it comes to protecting your vision I think that is an area where extra $ should be spent instead of trying to save $ by buying the cheapest hood available and expecting it to protect you eyes the same way a $200+ helmet does.

You only get 1 set of eyes, take good care of them.

i'd like to see scientific evidence on this.

because sheer money spent does not automatically equate quality.

for all you know the 200-400$ helmets may be made int he same plants with the 35$ helmets, and the seller just makes that much more $.

are there UL tags on the 35$ helmets? any independent testing to see if they DO in fact block IR and UV statically as said. if they do.. theen you are just dealing with shade speed.. and that can be gauged with eyes...

just sayin....

 

[woodskiff]

Without opening a lens debate...as a dad with a son in the same welding class...I purchased all my other equipment from my local Miller dealer including our Jackson helmets. I researched the auto helmets and decided on this helmet carefully and for saftey, the "Cheap Helmet" lens meets all the same AWS standards. The compromise is in such areas, headband, chin protection, solar panel...that's fact, not opinion. Settings, 10,11,13 = 10,11,13 on your helmet, but, will my helmet last 5 or 10 years like yours..probably not.

 

[roadhunter]

i'd like to see scientific evidence on this.

because sheer money spent does not automatically equate quality.

for all you know the 200-400$ helmets may be made int he same plants with the 35$ helmets, and the seller just makes that much more $.

are there UL tags on the 35$ helmets? any independent testing to see if they DO in fact block IR and UV statically as said. if they do.. theen you are just dealing with shade speed.. and that can be gauged with eyes...

just sayin....

This is the same argument a mechanic with a bunch of cheap chineese tools would make to the other mechanic who had more expensive snap on, matco, mac, cornwell, , craftsman, etc tools. Your chineese wrench might be the same size but there are differences between it and the others mentioned just like there is a difference is a $35 no name auto shade and a $350 name brand auto shade helmet. And no I don't' have any scientific proof.

That is a good question about the testing of auto shade helmets and if there are indeed laboratories that confirm which helmets protect your eyes better but you will need someone smarter than me as I don't know.

You are entitled to your opinion just like I am to mine. I don't trust my eyes on a $35 auto shade harbor freight type helmet. It's simply too much risk for too little reward IMO. Risking your only 2 eyes to try and save $100 is not a reasonable way of thinking IMO. There are much less risky ways to save $100 that dot' involve something as important as your eyes. If someone is truly on a budget a better choice is a simply fixed shade helmet.

Feel free to trust your eyes to your choice of helmet and tell us how good your experience was. I think we are all interested in what others use, why they chose it, and how well it has performed for them.

I've always been fascinated by the high end units like 3M and speedglas. I'm planning to upgrade to a miller titanium at some point in the near future. I have a miller pro hobby and have had good luck with it over the last 15+ years. I've replaced the auto dim unit once in that time so I average about 7-8 years out of one.

I would recommend it to anyone who does occasional welding jobs and wants a quality unit that will last many years. Consumables are pretty cheap and readily available as well.

 

[Soundguy]

have you noticed 'made in china' on craftsman tools? I have!

Did you know sensitive electronics like iphones and ipads are made in china.

just sayin..

as for difference in the tools.. .. I think I'd ask for scientific evidence on that as well.

sears wrench and hf wrench, both high polish, both lifetime warranty. both cost the same.. woops.. wrong... hf cost about 1/4.. though i bet they cost the same to make.. the engraved name on each of them probably takes the same amount of time to apply.

not arguing.. just sayin..

If I had high $ tools, i'd sure defend my purchases too.... so i completely understand.

 

[rswyan]

It's all about calculated risk ... as are most things ...

I started with a HF auto-dark unit ... and then after losing/misplacing a part from the head gear, I picked up a Hobart that was on sale at TSC which I'm using now ...

I still have the HF unit, have been meaning to fix it (need a round tuit) and if/when I do, I would use it again in a heartbeat.

 

[Soundguy]

i'm trying to decide if i like the headgear in my hobart better than the one in my HF or not. very very close. not a clear cut winner there

 

[RandyBell]

Growing up with a man that spent enough years welding that after I learned to weld he didn't want me working that profession, The expensive welding hoods are just that expensive. For the old buzz box stick welder you can't beat an old head knodder (as Sound Guy called it) The mig welder I like the automatics, I have used my sons high dollar snap-on hood and I can't see any difference in my 30 dollar Harbor Freight! As long as you remember you should have a 10 or higher shade. The big thing is to use a hood that is comfortable and keep your lenses clean.