1952 8n 12volt, front mount distributor starting issues

[JKS68]

Howdy all! So I bought tractor about 6 months ago, ran pretty good. I am a serious novice at this but trying to learn. Was moving brush one day and tractor died. Started right back up, parked it and has only moved twice since then. Changed plugs, wires, condenser, points, coil, cap. Tractor started and ran for 30 minuets then cut off. Had a slight overflow from radiator after I pulled it to safety. Took distributor housing back off and points were closed, no gap, gap was set at .015. Reset and cleaned points, put back together and tractor started and ran for about 15-30 minuets. Cut it off and it won't start again. Checked fire at plugs by removing one and grounding on engine? I am way beyond stumped. All and any help greatly appreciated!

 

[Dave M7040]

The first challenge is to identify if you have an ignition problem or a fuel problem.
I find a small amount of quick start (ether) will clarify if you have ignition or not.
If the engine fires right away focus on the fuel system and carb.
If it does not then you likely have ignition issues. In this area the condenser is often over looked when trouble shooting.
Also, most 12 volt ignition systems only run on 12 volts when starting and then switch to approx 6 volts using a ballast resistor (usually a white porcelain thing about 4" long and and 1" wide and thick. Whoever converted your tractor to 12 volts may not have done it properly and the result is usually overheated coil, blown condenser and burnt points.
The change from power to the coil being supplied with battery voltage (12 volts) or lower voltage takes place with the starter solenoid. In the start position of the key full 12 volts goes to the coil to aid starting. Once you release the key to the run position, coil power is now through the ballast resistor at lower voltage which greatly extends the life of the components and does not adversely affect a running engine.
Just because a plug will fire laying on the engine block does not mean it will fire when cylinder compression builds up.
Dave M7040

 

[Soundguy]

well.. lets start off.

if it is indeed a front mount, then it is NOT a 52.

IF it is a front mount .015 breaker gap is correct.

plug gap on all is .025

when it won't ruin, always check spark first. if it has good spark.. check fuel.

ether can be used to check fuel.

odd issues between fuel and spark can be pinned down with a compression test.

the rad overflow may just be an over-fill issue. just over core is enough.

lastly. what coil and resistors are you running?

have you bypassed ignition wireing and hotwired it straight from bat to coil to test?

 

[Stimw]

They make 12V coils for the N's so you don't need a resistor.
If it is the 6V coil without resistor it might have gotten points arm hot so it closed??
If you haven't figured it out yet, there are 2 bolts that hold the distributor on and you can remove the whole assembly to make setting points easy. The dist. drive is offset so it will only go back on one way. Just line it back up.
These tractors will have problems with the fuel tank fitting stopping up and it also has the reserve in the fitting.
Updraft carburetors just about need to be flooding to start, they need a lot of choking.

 

[Soundguy]

They make 12V coils for the N's so you don't need a resistor.
.

sorry.. that's 100% incorrect info for a front mount ford.

There is a square coil listed for 12v usage for front mounts.. but they test between 2 and commonly, 2.5 ohms . that's simply not enough primary resistance. you STILL need the OEM ballast resistor in line with those 2.5 ohm square coils.

 

[JKS68]

hey guys I appreciate all the information. I bought a 12 volt coil and there is no ballast resistor. I was wondering about that because everything I have read says I need one but I have checked and there is not one anywhere. Does anyone have a good part number for resistor? as for the coil, the original one broke while taking little top bolt off so had to get a new one. the one I have now is a BWD E58, bought all parts at O,Riley s the first time. The new points are Echlin from Napa, have a coil coming in from same place, neither are in the machine yet.
Now I never saw a set of points before this adventure but the original ones in the tractor looked rough, I pulled from my limited knowledge dealing with burnt plugs. the ones in there now look rougher and the spring on the coil is completely black after running it twice, (big oops) i did not put lubricant on point contacts? As for it being a 52, that's what i was told, it is definitely a front mount. plan on looking up number to confirm. testing ignition has me sort of lost, i read something about it but was unclear on procedure. do i disconnect the wire on the coil and then replace with jumper from battery positive?
I rebuilt the carburetor(I briefly impressed myself), found that the screen in the carb elbow had literally fell apart, into the carb i suspect. I am pretty sure I have the fuel going, but would like to know more about the test with ether? sounds like i need to install resistor and test ignition before i do anything else? does that sound like a good second beginning? I am removing housing and doing this work, have had it off three or four times and back on so I am getting lots of practice lining that back up. Thanks guys for your help! I find myself adding this stuff to the list of things I should have listened to pops about but didn't have time!

 

[Soundguy]

The resistor that you can use is for a 1960 to 1971 chev or dodge cars you also need to install a bypass wire from the starter solenoid I termal to the coil side of the resistor. This will feed 12 volts to the coil in crank mode. and for the points closing up did you lube the dist. shaft with point lube. If not it will wear out the rubbing block on the points. I did run in a problem with my 8n 1948 the water pump was seeping a little and i found that the dist cap didn't fit down tight to the gasket. and allowed coolant into my dist. Mine is not fun to get it out with a front end loader on it. hope this helps

please stick to posting what you know, and not posting what you don't know.

the 8n does not use a bypass solenoid. it is 3 terminal.

no bypass is needed.. you simply use the correct ballast resistor with a thermal resistance coeficient. cold, it's low ohms, warm, it's higher.

to the OP, post the engine serial number on the 1x4 flat boss on the left side of the block, aft of the oil filter just under the head, i will give you the engine date anyway. then you can check other casting codes to see if the tractor is complete or a put together.