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It's square stock.
50 inch brush fork build (with quick-release lever)
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It's square stock.
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Sodo
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Hi Arrow, tx for the notes. I am trying to get a handle on what's the necessary strength for fork tines. I used 1x2x.120 which has a modulus of .321. By my experience with these forks, .321 is about at the limit for 3 feet extending beyond the bucket for a 1,000lb lift. Mine have a light bow and I've had heavy logs on them (too heavy!). I son't think I'm going to change my fork strength, but will probably not lift such heavy logs in the future. :thumbsup:
In your case square 1" solid steel has a modulus of .167. How far does it extend beyond the bucket edge?
Of course how long the tines are, and how many of them are carrying the load all have effects? And if the tines are hooked together too.
(Section modulus from Engineering Section Properties: Rectangle Tube Calculator - Engineers Edge Engineering Calculators )
Thx for your input! Interested to hear what MossRoad dimensions are.
In your case square 1" solid steel has a modulus of .167. How far does it extend beyond the bucket edge?
Of course how long the tines are, and how many of them are carrying the load all have effects? And if the tines are hooked together too.
(Section modulus from Engineering Section Properties: Rectangle Tube Calculator - Engineers Edge Engineering Calculators )
Thx for your input! Interested to hear what MossRoad dimensions are.
MossRoad
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Not off the top of my head, but here's a picture of the same forks from the factory. They are 30" long.
MossRoad
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And here's a picture of a friend of mine's PT with the forks bent nearly the same way.
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Sodo
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Thx for pix! You weren't kidding! But the engineer MUST have numbers. Is there any way you can get the material dimensions (and length?)
MossRoad
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Power Trac.... Engineers? Numbers? HAHAHAHHAAaa that's a good one. HAHAHAHAahHaaaa..... ohh, my stomach hurts! :laughing:
I can measure them up the next time I get them out. I just mowed yesterday, so they're nested inside of two buckets and under my mower deck, which I probably won't move until next week.
I'm pretty sure they are 30" long, about 5" wide, probably 7/8" thick. But that's off the top of my head.
I can measure them up the next time I get them out. I just mowed yesterday, so they're nested inside of two buckets and under my mower deck, which I probably won't move until next week.
I'm pretty sure they are 30" long, about 5" wide, probably 7/8" thick. But that's off the top of my head.
MossRoad
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Also, as I recall, they are mild steel. Not hardened like "normal" forks on a forklift.
Colonel Monk
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What was mentioned about the section modulus is the key..... But forget the term modulus if it's too geeked for you....
In bending, a solid section member often bends way before one with a complicated section, like tubing, C Channel, I beam.... It's been so long since that part of my training, I can't remember exactly why and I'm too lazy to look it up just now....
But, you should expect a brush fork of square solid bar and of mild steel to bend much easier than a square tubing with heavy wall thickness.
What was said about the distance between the load and the attachment part of the fork is also true. Lift near the bucket, no problem. Lift at the end of the tines, bent forks. That all depends on the material and how long the forks are.
Looking at Moss's forks, they look "abruptly" welded to the frame. Forks for lifting HEAVY weight like fork trucks, are made as they are so that there's no "joint" at the attachment point. Not sure how they are made, but they are a tough steel definitely tempered in ways we can't reproduce in our garages.
Using a mild steel which is solid probably is less that optimal.
I want to build a set for our tractor, I was kinda planning on doing them on the short side so that they'd be tough to bend. Main reason would be lifting logs and moving waste to burn piles.... What's the reason for wanting them so long?
In bending, a solid section member often bends way before one with a complicated section, like tubing, C Channel, I beam.... It's been so long since that part of my training, I can't remember exactly why and I'm too lazy to look it up just now....
But, you should expect a brush fork of square solid bar and of mild steel to bend much easier than a square tubing with heavy wall thickness.
What was said about the distance between the load and the attachment part of the fork is also true. Lift near the bucket, no problem. Lift at the end of the tines, bent forks. That all depends on the material and how long the forks are.
Looking at Moss's forks, they look "abruptly" welded to the frame. Forks for lifting HEAVY weight like fork trucks, are made as they are so that there's no "joint" at the attachment point. Not sure how they are made, but they are a tough steel definitely tempered in ways we can't reproduce in our garages.
Using a mild steel which is solid probably is less that optimal.
I want to build a set for our tractor, I was kinda planning on doing them on the short side so that they'd be tough to bend. Main reason would be lifting logs and moving waste to burn piles.... What's the reason for wanting them so long?
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MossRoad
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Can't tell from that picture I posted, but these forks tend to BEND in an arc several inches in front of where they are attached to the mounting plate, not at the joint.
They were only $250 from the factory and have been one of my most used tools, and I'll be the first to admit I abused them for things they are not intended to do.
If I were to build my own forks.... I wouldn't! I'd go to one of several used forklift dealers near here and pick up a set of used forks and adapt mounting to my machine. Unless I got the steel for real cheap, it would be much cheaper and a better use of my time than reinventing the wheel.
They were only $250 from the factory and have been one of my most used tools, and I'll be the first to admit I abused them for things they are not intended to do.
If I were to build my own forks.... I wouldn't! I'd go to one of several used forklift dealers near here and pick up a set of used forks and adapt mounting to my machine. Unless I got the steel for real cheap, it would be much cheaper and a better use of my time than reinventing the wheel.
