Loose frame bolts

[jacob59]

Howdy, has anyone encountered any bolts loose on there new LS tractors. I came across one on my new 2030. I had a real slow leak of hydraulic oil dripping down from the left rearend. On inspection I found a loose ( improperly torqued ) bolt. The oil was slowly seeping from it. I tightened it up and leak fixed.
Jack

 

[ozley]

Howdy, has anyone encountered any bolts loose on there new LS tractors. I came across one on my new 2030. I had a real slow leak of hydraulic oil dripping down from the left rearend. On inspection I found a loose ( improperly torqued ) bolt. The oil was slowly seeping from it. I tightened it up and leak fixed. Jack

All I can say is check all bolts for correct torque. Frame, loader and ect when new and at a set time like every 100 hours.

 

[windcatcher]

All I can say is check all bolts for correct torque. Frame, loader and ect when new and at a set time like every 100 hours.

That is pretty much what my operator's/owner's manual is saying for my XR3032H.

Don't leave home without it. :cool2:

 

[vabiker23518]

This issue is not unique to LS tractors...my TYM T233 had several loose bolts when I changed the oil last fall (about 100 hours total on it). Didn't have any leaks but will make sure to recheck all at least once/year. (Average about 50 hours/year).

 

[antlers125]

Had an exhaust bolt loose which made the tractor a little loud. This is not uncommon - a lot of vibrating going on w/a tractor.

 

[PILOON]

All I can say is check all bolts for correct torque. Frame, loader and ect when new and at a set time like every 100 hours.

Better still, a quick walk around c/w push poke along with every greasing !
You do grease every 10 hours, don't you?
Generally torque wrench is not really needed. Simply strong arm tight in most cases will do.
Critical torque values are really necessary for engine components and close tolerance machined items such as heads tranny and differentials.
Torquing could be defined as real tight without stripping threads, so strong arm in many if not most cases will be just fine.Certainly wherever you have easy access to both bolt head and the nut strong arm is OK as a stripped bolt is easily replaced.
Unless you have a really educated wrist I would for sure use a torque wrench whenever a bolt is screwed into a casting.
On the other hand up tight with flattened washer is better than with loose and rattling.

 

[jacob59]

Yeah, I'm clear on all that. I've been an aircraft mechanic for over 25 years. My point is this tractor has only 6hrs on it. This means it came of the production line like this. Than past their quality control. In my business this wouldn't fly. Litillary.
I do like the tractor.
Jack

 

[Gary Fowler]

Remember that some of the items on the tractor were installed by the dealer who does not have an inspection program to come behind their mechanic.
The only place I have seen a second inspection done was oddly enough at Sam's Club. I had a leaking valve stem on a new set of tires and I took it in for repair. The tech finally got a valve stem to hold and put the tire back on the truck. I thought I was ready to go, but he said their policy is for another tech to come and double check the torque of the lug nuts before it could move. A different tech finally came, checked all the lug nuts with a calibrated torque wrench (calibrated every 6 months according to the tech I asked) I have never seen a mechanic shop that had another mechanic check each others work.

 

[GManBart]

Litillary.

What in the world is that?

 

[jacob59]

What in the world is that?

They call it a typo. Here, I hope this makes you feel more secure. "LITERALLY".