tractor with no thermostat?!

[Old Virginia Joe]

on the run on. are you bringing it down to idle for a few secondfs before cutting it off?

and have you checked timing.. or advanced it any?

what plugs are you using?

No, I have not idled it when it is reaching the red line. I cut it off, because the needle is progressing steadily to red, and after I cut it off, I see the gauge continue to rise into the redzone. Instead of idling, I do take it out of PTO and slowly drive it a few yards to where it will sit to cool off.

Timing? No, I have done nothing to the timing. The tractor starts and runs smooth, to my untrained but 52 y.o. ears.


Autolite 216 plugs that came with it--they look good.

 

[94BULLITT]

If you don't trust the gauge you could buy another gauge from the auto parts store to test it. I use a IR gun and it works good.

You need to figure out if it is overheating or not before you do anything else.

Fact: Leaving a battery on a concrete floor, the battery WILL discharge overtime.

Fact: Leaving a battery on ANY floor, or even a workbench, it WILL discharge overtime.

Sorry, couldnt help it...

A battery used to discharge over time if it was on concrete but now the cases are made out of a better plastic and are insulated better.

Storing Batteries on Concrete

 

[94BULLITT]

Update?

 

[Old Virginia Joe]

Update?

OK, we're ready now. I have now obtained an infra-red temp gun, and am ready to run a test as several of you have suggested. When it gets to where I and the temp gauge perceive as too hot, where on the engine should I take the temps to determine if it in fact it is really overheating? Remember, this type temp gun only reads surface heat temps. And, what temp at each of these engine surface locations is acceptable? Remember, this is a 1963 F-4000, 174 cid gas 4 cyl, pulling a JD 509 five foot bushog in thick weeds, dry, at mid 80s temp outside. Running a 160 t-stat with a 4 lb radiator cap. Thanks for your input. I'm ready to settle this issue!

 

[94BULLITT]

OK, we're ready now. I have now obtained an infra-red temp gun, and am ready to run a test as several of you have suggested. When it gets to where I and the temp gauge perceive as too hot, where on the engine should I take the temps to determine if it in fact it is really overheating? Remember, this type temp gun only reads surface heat temps. And, what temp at each of these engine surface locations is acceptable? Remember, this is a 1963 F-4000, 174 cid gas 4 cyl, pulling a JD 509 five foot bushog in thick weeds, dry, at mid 80s temp outside. Running a 160 t-stat with a 4 lb radiator cap. Thanks for your input. I'm ready to settle this issue!

You should probably see around 170-175*, if you get it on a long hard pull it may heat up a bit more. The surface temp should match the coolant gauge.

 

[SPYDERLK]

OK, we're ready now. I have now obtained an infra-red temp gun, and am ready to run a test as several of you have suggested. When it gets to where I and the temp gauge perceive as too hot, where on the engine should I take the temps to determine if it in fact it is really overheating? Remember, this type temp gun only reads surface heat temps. And, what temp at each of these engine surface locations is acceptable? Remember, this is a 1963 F-4000, 174 cid gas 4 cyl, pulling a JD 509 five foot bushog in thick weeds, dry, at mid 80s temp outside. Running a 160 t-stat with a 4 lb radiator cap. Thanks for your input. I'm ready to settle this issue!

Measure the top tank of the radiator. Should be 160+ normal ... up to ~ 220 hot on heat gauge indication. ... might want to boil some water on the stove and check IR sensor calibration on the pot surface - not the water itself.
larry

 

[Old Virginia Joe]

Measure the top tank of the radiator. Should be 160+ normal ... up to ~ 220 hot on heat gauge indication. ... might want to boil some water on the stove and check IR sensor calibration on the pot surface - not the water itself.
larry

OK, here it is. I did "calibrate" on the pot boiling on the stove, and surprisingly on the outside of the pot of boiling water got only 99-100 degrees. Touching the pot there with my finger would burn you, so I cannot understand that. Inside the pot, in the water, I got 180s. Shooting the tractor, I got as high as 180s at top of radiator, lower at the mid to bottom of radiator, and 203 hottest in the block iron itself.
This thermometer is new, and is for my use at work regulating the food businesses. I believe it is accurate, but there may be some limitations on taking "surface" temps like this, which is why we don't really rely on this type of unit---we use a probe thermometer for foods much more than this IR gun.
So, what do y'all say about my temps? Don't worry about it, or what?

 

[SPYDERLK]

OK, here it is. I did "calibrate" on the pot boiling on the stove, and surprisingly on the outside of the pot of boiling water got only 99-100 degrees. Touching the pot there with my finger would burn you, so I cannot understand that. Inside the pot, in the water, I got 180s. Shooting the tractor, I got as high as 180s at top of radiator, lower at the mid to bottom of radiator, and 203 hottest in the block iron itself.
This thermometer is new, and is for my use at work regulating the food businesses. I believe it is accurate, but there may be some limitations on taking "surface" temps like this, which is why we don't really rely on this type of unit---we use a probe thermometer for foods much more than this IR gun.
So, what do y'all say about my temps? Don't worry about it, or what?

Weird on the pot surface reading ... maybe due a shiny curved surface. Flat paint will help in a case like that.
,,,,,I am concerned because you got 180 from boiling water and the same T at top of your radiator. Was the gauge reading HOT? ... IF 180 is correct you can relax - a little.

Could you feel pressure in the top hose while running? Did pressure maintain for a while after turn off?
Do you know if the sending unit for the gauge was replaced?

 

[The Fred]

It's running hot obviously. Next step is to verify ignition timing; not that this IS the only issue but spark lead timing is a direct input to proper engine operation. IF in fact it is retarded (and it most likely is as evidenced by the running on after shutdown) once remedied your machine will have a new found power that will make it more enjoyable for you to operate and use less fuel.

Fred

Ford N-Series Tractor Ignition System

 

[CircleRat]

I agree with Spiderlk that it's running on the hot side. I also agree with The Fred that you should check the timing, but respectfully disagree that it would be retarded... usually high temps, dieseling (run-on) and pinging is caused by the timing being too far advanced. Have you noticed any pinging at all? It would sound like chains rattling in the engine, especially under load.