Power Steering Hose Failure

[jim442]

Also, make sure the shop-or you clean the hoses out before re-installing.

 

[Mackinaw]

The BX is 8 years old now (516 hours) and just started leaking. I got a price of about $30.00 per hose from my local dealer. I did a little calling around and no one could make a custom hose from better material for the same price. So, I'm spending $120.00 for all four hoses, OEM. Hope I get at least 8 years from the new ones....

 

[kbota]

My BX2200 is 10 years old with 509 hours. The front pwr steering hoses started leaking, and I decided to tackle it myself. So, dropped the mmm, dropped the steering cylinder, pulled the old hoses, and had new Parker hoses made. Installed them, and put it back together. Topped off the sudt2, and mowed some grass.
STILL LEAKING! Now it's the rear hoses. Dropped the mmm back off. Wow, they built this tractor around the hoses. Got'em out, and had two aeroquip hoses made up. ($$) The rear two are really fun to replace by the way. All four hoses cost $160. Lots cheaper than the dealer though.

But, finally got'er done.

Tips
1. Pull the battery before you begin. It pro'ly needs cleaning up anyway.
2. Pull the floor pan. Makes getting to that center splice connection easier.
3. Pull right rear tire. No brainer
4. If possible, pressure wash as much of the underside as possible the day before you start to work.
5. Good time to do routine maintenance such as fuel filters.

Hope this helps someone.

K

 

[dz1966]

Hello,

I just joined here mainly because I am trying to find help with the same problem on my BX2200. I came across this thread so here I am. Anyway, my issue is the front hose is leaking, but I cannot figure out how how to get to the fitting on the steering cylinder to get the hose disconnected; there seems to be no room to do so. For those of you that have successfully done the job, am I missing something? Does something have to be removed from the tractor to get it off? Thanks in advance for your replies.

D

 

[nc redneck]

My BX2200 is 10 years old with 509 hours. The front pwr steering hoses started leaking, and I decided to tackle it myself. So, dropped the mmm, dropped the steering cylinder, pulled the old hoses, and had new Parker hoses made. Installed them, and put it back together. Topped off the sudt2, and mowed some grass.
STILL LEAKING! Now it's the rear hoses. Dropped the mmm back off. Wow, they built this tractor around the hoses. Got'em out, and had two aeroquip hoses made up. ($$) The rear two are really fun to replace by the way. All four hoses cost $160. Lots cheaper than the dealer though.

But, finally got'er done.

Tips
1. Pull the battery before you begin. It pro'ly needs cleaning up anyway.
2. Pull the floor pan. Makes getting to that center splice connection easier.
3. Pull right rear tire. No brainer
4. If possible, pressure wash as much of the underside as possible the day before you start to work.
5. Good time to do routine maintenance such as fuel filters.

Hope this helps someone.

K

Good advice above just did mine at 570 hours. Replaced all 4 with quality hoses from local hydraulic shop cost $ 190.00. I had them made one inch longer than OEM after reading other posts. Expect a not so fun of a job and possible problems with getting new thicker hoses routed and interference with battery cover. Try jacking up center of front end so you can tilt axle and drop steering cylinder .
Good Luck
Scott

 

[MFIHCAT]

Use an angle head wrench and you don't have to drop steer cyl.

 

[dz1966]

Use an angle head wrench and you don't have to drop steer cyl.

Any ideas where to get an angle head wrench? I can find them online but no luck in stores.

 

[MFIHCAT]

Snap On. Or make one.

 

[Stargazer]

I see you can get angle head wrenches in 60 or 80 deg bend on 1 end and 15 on the other. which in your opinion works better? 80 is about $20 more for sae size. Or does it really matter on angle. Thanx

 

[dz1966]

Wow - this was an adventure for me. After I jacked up the front end I was able to see the fittings on both sides. A standard line wrench worked on the left side, but due to the direction of the fitting as well as the very limited amount of room, the right side needed a special wrench - angle wrench. As I could not find one in any local stores, I ended up ordering one online - 60 degree. Even with this I could get any leverage to loosen the fitting. I ended up heated the wrench with a torch and bending it to increase the angle (80 degree would have worked better. Even so, the limited space the metal in the area restricts the amount of movement you can have with the wrench. This fitting took a painstakingly long time to get off. I know I saved a lot of cash doing it myself, but it took a lot longer then expected and was very frustrating at times.

 

[techman]

I just unbolted the brackets holding the cylinder to the front end. This let the cylinder drop down, and allowed the fittings to be attacked with standard wrenches.

paul

 

[dz1966]

Paul,

Thanks for info. Would be able to take a pic of the bolts in I ever need to do this again?

Thanks

Dale

 

[techman]

Paul,

Thanks for info. Would be able to take a pic of the bolts in I ever need to do this again?

Thanks

Dale

Look at the attached. I removed the ball joints (80) from the wheel hubs. I then undid the bolts (030) from one end. Once removed, the entire cylinder can detach and be lowered and/or moved out a bit. This enables you to get on the tube fittings.

paul