Vermeer

[Tx Jim]

I agree JD rd baler cost a lot when one buys them new but they will bring a ""lot when sold used"". There's a reason because they're good,easy to operate balers that make a good bale of hay. One has to consider the cost of ownership per bale.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I've never seen a starter roll on a JD rd baler wear out enough to require replacement. I do weld extra rods on each end of my 467 balers starter rolls to stop dry coastal from running up belts in the frt of baler and collecting between belts. Last time I talked to JD employees in Ottumwa they didn't advise welding on starter roll with spirals but I've done it on several with great success.

Jim, wasn't suggesting that the starter roller was worn out, just talking off the top of my head. My point was, no repairs/maintenance that I could dream of would cost more than a fraction of what a new baler would be. If it's a "good baler," as he said, then just fix it up a little and keep using it.

Could you please post a picture of what you did to the starter roller on your baler? I have the same problem in my Coastal field.

 

[Tx Jim]

I will post a photo the next time I get my baler out of the shed. I had round rods about a foot long welded on each end of starter roll in between the existing curved rods welded to roll. I also have a weld bead welded on the leading edge of each existing rod. This makes the starter roll more aggressive and slows down the overly dry hay running up & bridging in the front of the belts. I started welding on JD rd baler starter rolls back in the 90's as advised by a JD territorial manager.

 

[Grateful11]

We looked at the Vermeer Rebel balers and they have an electronic monitor but they lack one thing that's important to some but not everyone, no bale shape indicators. We were at a hay demo and I even asked the Rep. about it and he said you have to move up to the 504N to get shape monitors. He's answer was make your windrows correctly and you don't need it. Well not all windrows are going to come out exactly as you wish. The rake operator and the condition of the hay may have something to say about that. We really liked the looks and price of the Rebel but the shape indicators stopped us. You can get a 504N for a lot less than a 459 with netwrap. We'll stick with the JD 448 for now.

 

[Zscoop33]

Not sure what the bale shaper is but set your rake for 46 in and let it rip have had no problems Baling 2000 bales so far. If you are going to bale 4x5 bales which is as wide as a 504n can bale so why do you need a bale shaper.

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree correct windrow width lessens the need for bale shape indicators. With my H&S 14 wheel Hi-cap with the windrow width set a 4.5 ft on my Mega-wide PU baler I have to do very few bale shape corrections.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I will post a photo the next time I get my baler out of the shed. I had round rods about a foot long welded on each end of starter roll in between the existing curved rods welded to roll. I also have a weld bead welded on the leading edge of each existing rod. This makes the starter roll more aggressive and slows down the overly dry hay running up & bridging in the front of the belts. I started welding on JD rd baler starter rolls back in the 90's as advised by a JD territorial manager.

Jim, Please do. I'm really interested in doing this mod to my baler. THanks.

 

[Tx Jim]

Bigfoot62
I should get my rd baler out of the shed on in a couple of days. I ran an experimental starter roll for JD long before they were introduced. After I had baled several 1000 bales I started having minor core starting problems and hay running up the front belts. I asked the JD representative from Ottumwa factory about welding on new style roller similar to how I was accustomed to doing on older style. He said he didn't know but he'd rather exchange my exp roller another exp roller so they could measure the wear on the 1st exp roller. He sent a tech from Iowa to exchange the rollers. After the experiment was over and I had starting problems I thought was starter roll related I started my own experiments of welding. I usually bale @ 15% or below moisture baling 3 nine foot swaths raked together and very rarely have to clean Coastal out of frt belts.

 

[Grateful11]

Not sure what the bale shaper is but set your rake for 46 in and let it rip have had no problems Baling 2000 bales so far. If you are going to bale 4x5 bales which is as wide as a 504n can bale so why do you need a bale shaper.

It's not a bale shaper, it's indicators that show you where you need hay for the bale to come out in the correct shape, either one side or the other. Have you ever had a bale come out slightly cone shaped? Have you ever had one come out barrel shaped? If you have a 504N, those bars on your screen are the bale shape indicators.

 

[F3506]

I got a new Vermeer baler last year. I'm still undecided. I came from an older Case (Hesston) baler that just seemed simpler. Wish I hadn't sold it now, but I wanted to get down to a 4' wide bale instead of the 5' bales.

The Vermeer seems to net wrap just fine. Full side to side coverage. I don't have a bale shape indicator, but after baling with the 5x6 for so many years, I kind of got the feel for if I need to run side to side to keep it level. Bales seem pretty consistent with no issues. The twine tie sucks compared to the older model. The Vermeer has the auto start, but the twin doesn't always pick up till it comes back 12" or so into the bale, so I end up hitting the button and restarting the arm to get twine closer to the edge of the bale.

I should probably just stick to net wrap, but I'm stubborn and want to figure out how to get the twine to work right. It's doing better, but still not perfect. Price and dealer support were the deciding factors for me.