Mostly scrap built (but still awesome) land plane

[NS Gearhead]

Ok, so it's still a toss up if I'll do that or not.

Yup, I'll tow it with the Jeep as long as I have it... but the Tracker, fourwheeler, momma's SUV she's getting in the next year or two, the Polaris Ranger I want to get next fall.... whatever. LOL

I only have a 110 mig welder. The hard plate I mentioned is just hardened steel. From what I understand it welds just like normal. A guy I know who works at an asphalt plant made some diff covers out of it... but he has it kicking around. I'd have to buy some.

 

[jwmorris]

My Grandfather would spank both the puller and the rider of the implement without explanation at first sight, regardless of age.

From your very first photo it looks like Colin would have some colon Problems if a stick were to hit your angle iron below his seat.

How about dead weight on top instead?

 

[NS Gearhead]

From your very first photo it looks like Colin would have some colon Problems if a stick were to hit your angle iron below his seat.

How about dead weight on top instead?

Not many sticks on my driveway, and dead weight can't turn the jack handles. LOL

I don't plan to be doing 50 with Colin holding on for deal life... that's what the GT snow racer's for.

 

[walker450]

Looking forward to seeing the final product! I just bought some land at the end of a 1000' ft private gravel road... I will be building one of these once we build the house and get settled in.

 

[NS Gearhead]

I cut the zamboni blade. Make no mistake, it was in the "Dull" pile, but it's still sharp enough that you wouldn't know you'd cut yourself until you saw blood


Here's what it looks like with some end pieces


Got Colin's chair from work!

 

[CNC Dan]

You might want to make a bench seat if those jacks are top-wind.

Side-wind jacks might be reached from a center seat, but the top-wind are going to be hard to operate from one place.

Keep the posts and pics comming.

 

[NS Gearhead]

You might want to make a bench seat if those jacks are top-wind.

Side-wind jacks might be reached from a center seat, but the top-wind are going to be hard to operate from one place.

Keep the posts and pics comming.

I gave it a "test drive". LOL I put the jacks on the floor, because basicly the seat will sit 1' higher, and so will they from the floor. It wasn't bad at all. They're probably 6" out each in the last pic then where they'll be in the finished product.

So two questions;
1 Sould I make the tongue be able to pivot at the front of the plane, then rigid with a pin? In order to raise the plane with the jacks it needs to be rigid, but i'm worried it won't be able to follow the countours of the ground being rigid. I guess a mostly level surface wouldn't matter, but once I hit the trail it may not work as well.
2 I planned to have bolt slots on the angle iron to allow adjustment for the blade... but I see alot use plate at the end of the angle with different bolt holes on the runners. What should I go with and why?

 

[Xfaxman]

Have you seen this thread? Adjustablility of Landscape Plane question

 

[CNC Dan]

So two questions;
1 Sould I make the tongue be able to pivot at the front of the plane, then rigid with a pin? In order to raise the plane with the jacks it needs to be rigid, but i'm worried it won't be able to follow the countours of the ground being rigid. I guess a mostly level surface wouldn't matter, but once I hit the trail it may not work as well.

I guess you mean pivot up/down or front/back, not left/right.
I would say you could keep it ridgid if your skid surface is short. It may help it work more like a motor grader. If the skids are long, then let it pivot.

2 I planned to have bolt slots on the angle iron to allow adjustment for the blade... but I see alot use plate at the end of the angle with different bolt holes on the runners. What should I go with and why?

If the slots are strait up and down, hitting a rock is unlikly to make the bolts slip. So slots on the skids would prevent that.

But to adjust for blade wear, slots on the angled mounting surface would be better. That way the hardened blade could be moved down/forward by itself.

 

[jwmorris]

If you are serious about someone really riding on it at least put a deck on it and something in the front to hold onto and keep from falling into the path. That way it would be a bit more difficult to be hurt or killed.

Why did you decide to run the blade straight across when most are at an angle?

 

[NS Gearhead]

If you are serious about someone really riding on it at least put a deck on it and something in the front to hold onto and keep from falling into the path. That way it would be a bit more difficult to be hurt or killed.

Why did you decide to run the blade straight across when most are at an angle?

He'll be going backwards, so in the extremely unlikely event he does fall off, he wouldn't get run over by anything.

I don't think more are at an angle... I decided to run mine straight for simplicity, and as far as I can tell it will work just as well as angled.

 

[NS Gearhead]

If you are serious about someone really riding on it at least put a deck on it and something in the front to hold onto and keep from falling into the path.

After some thought; yes if for whatever reason he did fall off his leg(s) could get caught under the rear pipe... so I scored some free expanded steel from work the other day. I'll cover the rear half... basicly from the rear legs of the seat to the back of the rig.

Just wrapping up the Tracker build, and bought a tarp so it can get out of the garage while I get back on this. Stay tuned!

 

[ovrszd]

He'll be going backwards, so in the extremely unlikely event he does fall off, he wouldn't get run over by anything.

I don't think more are at an angle... I decided to run mine straight for simplicity, and as far as I can tell it will work just as well as angled.

A friend of mine built one. He angled the front cutter one direction and the rear cutter the other direction. He primarily uses it to fill holes in a graveled truck parking lot. It works very well. Although all the boughten ones I've saw were angled the same direction.

 

[CNC Dan]

A friend of mine built one. He angled the front cutter one direction and the rear cutter the other direction. He primarily uses it to fill holes in a graveled truck parking lot. It works very well. Although all the boughten ones I've saw were angled the same direction.

Boughten? Haven't heard that word in a while. I think it's from Maine.

 

[ovrszd]

Boughten? Haven't heard that word in a while. I think it's from Maine.

Us Missourians talk kinda weird....

 

[Kioti Tom]

Us Missourians talk kinda weird....

Youse kins says dat agin. :thumbsup: :laughing:

 

[ovrszd]

Youse kins says dat agin. :thumbsup: :laughing:

And very proud of it, right Tom??

 

[Lloyd_E]

The angled blades allow for better control when cutting, levelling or planing. Try pushing a wood plane straight when planning wood and then at a slight angle... the difference is subtle but makes planning easier. The material in a box blade will build at the sides leaving a line of gravel depending on the depth setting. The angled plane will feather the gravel more...

Nice build.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Nice build.

Thanks! If I end up using this on my trail, it'll see alot of steep ups and downs, so in that sence I figgure straight across will work better as an angled blade would lift one end as the other was still cuttting... this is also the reason I kept it rather short... so it didn't fill in valleys and cut off the peaks as the trail rolls.

I'm firmiliar with the term "boughten". Alot of the mud truck guys around here use it to refer to parts that are store bought as opposed to home made.; "that truck's got a boughten lift".

 

[Kioti Tom]

And very proud of it, right Tom??

You can hear what I said in Pittsburgh...Pittsburgheese..LOL