Rotate the auger by hand until the hole in the shaft is facing you......
Shear bolt madness
- Thread starter rbarker
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Rotate the auger by hand until the hole in the shaft is facing you......
xerman
Member
By using these suggestions you should be able to get the broken bolt out.
I too have certainly broken my fair share of shear bolts. I have a suggestion that has worked for me for years now. The first time I purchased shear bolts from the dealer I was shocked at how expensive they were. I stopped at the local hardware store and purchased half a dozen #5 bolts (soft) of the correct length and diameter. When I got home I put the dealer bolt next to the hardware store bolt and marked the location where the grooves were located. I then took a dermel tool and cut a groove all the way around at the appropriate location. This has worked great for me and if the bolt breaks it breaks where the grooves are and typically just falls out of the shaft. These make shift bolts have worked just as good as the dealer bought shear bolts and are certainly a lot cheaper.
I too have certainly broken my fair share of shear bolts. I have a suggestion that has worked for me for years now. The first time I purchased shear bolts from the dealer I was shocked at how expensive they were. I stopped at the local hardware store and purchased half a dozen #5 bolts (soft) of the correct length and diameter. When I got home I put the dealer bolt next to the hardware store bolt and marked the location where the grooves were located. I then took a dermel tool and cut a groove all the way around at the appropriate location. This has worked great for me and if the bolt breaks it breaks where the grooves are and typically just falls out of the shaft. These make shift bolts have worked just as good as the dealer bought shear bolts and are certainly a lot cheaper.
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
just a thought, but with my old snowblower, in addition to the rotation factor there was also a side to side movement. This at times would trap the broken shear bolt inplace. Would drive me crazy.
At times id have to take the tractor into my shop and hit the area with the weed torch to melt off the snow and free up the rotation in order to get the old pin out
im sooo grateful that my new snowblower doesnt have any shear bolts.
At times id have to take the tractor into my shop and hit the area with the weed torch to melt off the snow and free up the rotation in order to get the old pin out
im sooo grateful that my new snowblower doesnt have any shear bolts.
dsmiley
Gold Member
I don't think you understand the situation. The BX2750D snow blower uses special shear bolts which have a reduced diameter at the shear points as seen in this photo. This is a 2750D auger shear bolt.
The reduced diameters prevents a bur from jamming up the shank, in theory anyway. I have sheared 8-10 bolts with mine, auger and fan wheel, and have always been able to easily push the shank out with a nail. I use a nail because I think it's easier to find the old shank "feeling" around with the pointed head as apposed to the flat head of a 3/16" or 1/4" punch. The fan wheel hole cannot be seen without a mirror; it's back inside the shroud, so a good "feel" is necessary to find the hole/shank. So while you would not normally think of a nail as being a better tool in a shear bolt situation, I like it better than a punch in this situation.
Dean
SeymourBota
Platinum Member
Move your PTO selector to 'rear' and this will free up the front PTO. You can then reach in and move the fan blade (which will rotate several turns for each turn of a front auger) around until you can get to the other side of the shear bolt.
I also use a smaller punch to remove the old bolt and both the trip around and the side to side motion must be perfect for the bolt to slide out.
Leave the punch in the hole until you are ready to install the new bolt.
I also use a smaller punch to remove the old bolt and both the trip around and the side to side motion must be perfect for the bolt to slide out.
Leave the punch in the hole until you are ready to install the new bolt.
pmhowe
Silver Member
"do you use a hair brush to brush your teeth?"
No, but I use a tooth brush to clean car and tractor parts.
Phil
No, but I use a tooth brush to clean car and tractor parts.
Phil
Soundguy
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i don't think YOU understand my post.
I sad to use a proper drift / pin punch to punch out the slug.. and not a nail or screwdriver.
diamater makes no difference. matcht he diamater of the punch just under the diameter of the shank.
Actually the diameter reduction forms the shear point and is done to reduce the force needed as compared to a standard bolt. I buy regular grade 3 bolts and grind the grooves in the bolts. Easier to do compared to setting up the lathe.The edge of the grinding wheel makes a nice "V" groove.
I usually bust 0 to 2 bolts on a good snow. Usually due to a random rock which somehow always ends up on my 1/2 mile driveway.
paul
sandyc
Veteran Member
Just a thought...make sure the motor is off....makes my fingers hurt just thinking about that!
dsmiley
Gold Member
The shear will always occur where the bolt intersects the driving and driven pieces whether there is a groove there or not. Assuming normal tolerances, it cannot do otherwise. A groove can be 1/8" to one side and it will still shear at this intersection and not the groove. So the groove itself does not dictate where the bolt will shear. However, if the groove should be at this intersection you can control 2 aspects. One, if there is a burr it will not interfere with shank removal. And two, you can control the shear strength of the bolt with a uniformly reduced cross-sectional area.
I worked in a mechanical repair shop for 41 years and never heard of a grade 3 bolt. I'm not saying they don't exist. Just saying I've never heard of that grade (couldn't find my Machinery's Handbook). Speaking of bolt grades, the fan and auger shear bolts are not the same grade so you should be careful what you use if it's not OEM.
