Repair/Replace Trailer Floor

[lakngulf]

The floor in my 16 ft trailer has begun to rot. Today the first little 12 inch section fell thru. That board and a few next to it will give way soon. What are the secrets to repairing or replacing these boards? I see channel iron at each end and the boards seem to be inside the iron at both ends. How'd they do that? No bolts that I can find.

 

[bandaidmd]

mine is the same way looks like they weld the one strap on after the boards are already mounted. I only replaced one board so i bottomed it out under one end and cut it to be able to drop down and then scooted it under the steel strap. Instead of now having a full 1 1/2" under each end I only have 3/4". If i was going to replace all the boards i would take the cutting wheel or torch and take the hold down strap off one end (the front one on mine looks like the easiest).

 

[Egon]

Do a search as there have been threads on decking that explain what you have to do.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Easy job. Look under the trailer for hoses in wires first. Now take your chainsaw or a sawzall and cut each board from left to right somewhere near the center of the trailer. Remove the boards.

Now cut the new board to length and start by installing the first few at an angle and tapping into place with a small sledgehammer. The last two or three boards should be the ones in the center to go in. You will need a 15 inch piece of 2x4, a sledgehammer, and a fat buddy. Place each board in the front channel and stand the 2x4 on end off of the rear axle. Now have your buddy stand on the backside of the deck board with the end near the cap made out of the steel channel. This will bow the deck board. With you swinging a sledge hammer knock the 2x4 out in one motion and it will snap into place.

I do them by myself all the time by hitching the trailer to the truck and using my FEL to do the bowing versus a fat buddy using its down pressure.

Chris

 

[newbury]

I thought you did like Chris said for side pieces and then selected the special "pre bent" pieces at Lowes or Home Depot and then after fitting them in soaked them and put weight on them to straighten them out.

Isn't that why all the Lowes and Home Depot I go to have those precurved boards? Or are they for boat builders?

 

[bandaidmd]

After all that beating and banging you usually need new lightbulbs.

 

[Diamondpilot]

After all that beating and banging you usually need new lightbulbs.

I have never had a issue.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

I have never had a issue.

Chris

me either.. I don't hit the trailer.. just the boards..

 

[deepNdirt]

The way Diamonpilot has suggest sounds like a game plan, I've replaced boards before but only after already having cut the frame at the rear to drop a dove-tail into the trailers, then the boards are miter together and bolted down, I'm wondering if on the last 2 or 3 boards could they not be cut a bit short? to allow easier bowing into place, and then divide the difference, Perhaps bolting these boards down in the middle to keep from moving

 

[Diamondpilot]

The way Diamonpilot has suggest sounds like a game plan, I've replaced boards before but only after already having cut the frame at the rear to drop a dove-tail into the trailers, then the boards are miter together and bolted down, I'm wondering if on the last 2 or 3 boards could they not be cut a bit short? to allow easier bowing into place, and then divide the difference, Perhaps bolting these boards down in the middle to keep from moving

I would not cut the center ones shorter. Boards shrink over time.

It's a easy job. I can do a trailer in 30 minutes. You guys are over thinking this.

Chris

 

[lakngulf]

I would not cut the center ones shorter. Boards shrink over time.

It's a easy job. I can do a trailer in 30 minutes. You guys are over thinking this.

Chris

So the complete job in 20 1/2 hours:
10 hour drive up
30 minute fix
10 hour drive back

 

[Diamondpilot]

So the complete job in 20 1/2 hours:
10 hour drive up
30 minute fix
10 hour drive back

Bring the beer. I am a Coors Light Man.

Chris

 

[TedBell]

OK, we are talking about a 16' trailer here. Would the 'fat buddy'\bowing method work on a 10' trailer? There would be more stress on the lumber during bowing due to the shorter length.

 

[lakngulf]

OK, we are talking about a 16' trailer here. Would the 'fat buddy'\bowing method work on a 10' trailer? There would be more stress on the lumber during bowing due to the shorter length.

I hauled in another load of top soil from the farm and shoveled it off this morning. The board that has broken is less than three inches wide and the others are a good 8 inches. I thought about the fat buddy method as I looked at it this morning. Put the narrow board in last and it will be easier to bow.

 

[Diamondpilot]

OK, we are talking about a 16' trailer here. Would the 'fat buddy'\bowing method work on a 10' trailer? There would be more stress on the lumber during bowing due to the shorter length.

No problem. I have done 8' trailers this way. Just get wet lumber.

Chris

 

[schmism]

if your short a fat buddy and only have a skinny buddy or wife or kid for a helper

- start the board in the pocket in the front
- rest the end of the board ontop of the angle iron in the back its supposed to fit into.
- find a couple of scrap 2x4 and a section of angle iron (2x2 works well)
- clamp angle iron to rear of trailer (about an inch in) with 2x4 spacer between the top angle iron and the angle iron of the trailer (this should give you about a 1/4" clearance so your not clamping tight on the board your going to put in place).
- take bottle jack or floor jack and jack up the middle of the board your working on.
- youll watch the end of the board at the back get shorter.
- when board gets short enough to fit under the rear angle of the trailer wedge down with crow bar (that 1/4 inch gap or so)
- let jack down watch board go into place.

TLDR: if you dont have a "fat buddy" a jack and clamp system can be used

 

[yelbike]

Now how do you do the 24" section of beaver tail?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Now how do you do the 24" section of beaver tail?

I have only done one. What I did was cut out a chunk of the top rail on the far right side big enough to pull a board out. Then lift the first board out, slide each other board over and out. Do the opposite to re install and weld or bolt back in a piece if steel to replace. I drilled and tapped the rail where I took out a 12" section. I then cut a 15" piece of flat stock with holes in it it match the threaded holes and bolted it over as a cap. Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

if your short a fat buddy and only have a skinny buddy or wife or kid for a helper - start the board in the pocket in the front - rest the end of the board ontop of the angle iron in the back its supposed to fit into. - find a couple of scrap 2x4 and a section of angle iron (2x2 works well) - clamp angle iron to rear of trailer (about an inch in) with 2x4 spacer between the top angle iron and the angle iron of the trailer (this should give you about a 1/4" clearance so your not clamping tight on the board your going to put in place). - take bottle jack or floor jack and jack up the middle of the board your working on. - youll watch the end of the board at the back get shorter. - when board gets short enough to fit under the rear angle of the trailer wedge down with crow bar (that 1/4 inch gap or so) - let jack down watch board go into place. TLDR: if you dont have a "fat buddy" a jack and clamp system can be used

This is why I use my FEL for down pressure. Much quicker and on short boards the jack method lifts the entire trailer before bowing the board sufficiently.

Chris

 

[daveinnh]

My wife bought a used Miley with rubber over aluminum. But we saw some trailers with Rumber floor that looked durable.