Oil

[succor]

I've switched over to using rotella 5w40 synthetic oil since about 100 hours on my foton 254. I've got about 424 hours on it and noticing a possible rear main seal leak, very very slow leak. I've switched the oil pan gasket thinking this might cause it but no. Would this oil cause the seals to fail? Up here, it's great oil for very cold winter starting as it will get down to -40C! I've checked the bolts around the bell housing again and are tight. One was a little loose at the bottom so I tightened it. I've read the work about changing the seal, ouch. Am I getting the right bolts for this.

Cory

 

[farmerben8]

yeah, you need to eliminate all other possibilities first, but it seems from numerous accounts on here that the clutch housing bolts are notoriously not torqued correctly at the factory, which eventually leads to them loosening further and then the seal starts leaking. Better to deal with it soon, as it could lead to catastrophic engine failure if you don't keep on top of the oil level.
I'm waiting on a clutch alignment tool from Affordable Tractor, then I'm going to be splitting mine open to address this exact issue in the next few weeks. Good luck!!!
- Ben

 

[Bob Rooks]

FWIW, I tried using a premium synthetic hydraulic oil in my then new LW-06 backhoe. Turned all the cup seals to mush and blew them out in short order. I had previously been using standard hydraulic oil with no problems. I subsequently changed the cup seals to urethane, instead of OEM rubber or whatever they were, and had no more problems with the hydraulics.

 

[succor]

So it's the housing bolts that hold the engine on or is it something else cause they all seemed tight.

Cory

 

[farmerben8]

Its my understanding that the flywheel housing bolts to the engine block, holding the main seal in place. These improperly installed or torqued bolts tend to loosen over time causing oil to leak from between the engine and transmission. There is no way to know if these are tight or not without splitting the tractor in half and removing the clutch and flywheel assembly.
Again, this is why you want to be absolutely certain this is where the leak seems to be originating, before going through the whole trouble of taking it all apart. It sounds like a very common problem from what ive read on this site.

 

[farmerben8]

read this : Major Tractor Woes in Paradise | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS, by about page 5 he gets into the tractor and finds the culprit. I guess its actually the gasket that gets chewed up and maybe not the rear main seal. Regardless, its a job to get it done, and a shame to have to do it. It would be nice if we didn't have to repair mistakes made at the factory!

 

[Keno Tractors]

All of our Tractors use H46 Hydraulic fluid-it seems to work very well

 

[succor]

I'm more specifically referring to engine oil but thanks for the input for hydraulics!

 

[Keno Tractors]

Oh ok, well in that area we use Chevron Delo 400 15/40 non synthetic. The Mechanics say it works the best on these Tractors.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Oh ok, well in that area we use Chevron Delo 400 15/40 non synthetic. The Mechanics say it works the best on these Tractors.

It's what I use in all my equipment.

 

[succor]

What about -40C? Not being a smartass, just curious if 15w40 is all I need but plugged in or is that too heavy for this cold of a climate?

 

[Bob Rooks]

What about -40C? Not being a smartass, just curious if 15w40 is all I need but plugged in or is that too heavy for this cold of a climate?

If you're operating in consistantly -40° (F / C) ambient temperature (all day long) then I would recommend SAE 5W-30 engine oil.

 

[greg_g]

But make sure it's a diesel-formulated 5W30. For 2010 and newer, get API rating CJ-4. See this document for specifics.

//greg//

 

[succor]

SO I guess 15w40 non synthetic is OK because I just use the tractor to clear snow; maybe 2 hours when we get snow and not always is it -40C. I of course look for diesel oil not gas. Am I getting this right?

Cory

 

[WilliamBos]

SO I guess 15w40 non synthetic is OK because I just use the tractor to clear snow; maybe 2 hours when we get snow and not always is it -40C. I of course look for diesel oil not gas. Am I getting this right?

Cory

Run a 5W40 full synthetic, Rotella T6, or Valvoline Premium blue full syn, or Petro Canada 5W40 full syn.

 

[greg_g]

SO I guess 15w40 non synthetic is OK because I just use the tractor to clear snow; maybe 2 hours when we get snow and not always is it -40C. I of course look for diesel oil not gas. Am I getting this right?

Cory

Yup. As I'm sure you know, it has to warm up to snow. If that's all you use the tractor for in the winter, you're likely working in temps above -20C

//greg//

 

[WilliamBos]

Yup. As I'm sure you know, it has to warm up to snow. If that's all you use the tractor for in the winter, you're likely working in temps above -20C

//greg//

Chances are it will be colder than that, he is out on the cold open praries.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Chances are it will be colder than that, he is out on the cold open praries.

In the Alaskan Panhandle it can and does get too cold to snow. If you are clearing snow and if it's only 0°C you still have to consider wind chill. Not the ambient wind chill, but the wind chill factor across the radiator and the wind chill across the engine surfaces from the fan. These all count. So the OP described his conditions vaguely, and led me down the garden path. If he had said he just wanted to play Ice Trucker in moderately cold temps. for a few hours, that would have been fine.

 

[succor]

Anyway, I use rotella 5w40 synthetic diesel oil. If you look at my first post, I asked if this would cause engine leaks, gasket failures etc. Or do I go to a conventional diesel oil. In Saskatchewan, 2 years ago, no snow, warmest winter. Last year, getting stuck and cold! This year so far bit of snow and chilly right now. Oh and yes it's nice when you get the wind blowin up your *** as well clearing the driveway.

 

[WilliamBos]

Anyway, I use rotella 5w40 synthetic diesel oil. If you look at my first post, I asked if this would cause engine leaks, gasket failures etc. Or do I go to a conventional diesel oil. In Saskatchewan, 2 years ago, no snow, warmest winter. Last year, getting stuck and cold! This year so far bit of snow and chilly right now. Oh and yes it's nice when you get the wind blowin up your *** as well clearing the driveway.

Synthetic oils do not cause leaks, they have seal swellers. If you have maintained your tractor with regular changes, you will be fine. If you have neglected it, the synthetics ability clean the sludge out may find a leak, but will not cause it.