Log Splitter problem

[CJBOTA]

I started having problems with the directional control valve on my log splitter. It has a feature that automatically releases the handle when the cylinder is retracted. This allows for hands free retraction after splitting a log. The splitter is about 12 years old. It is a 33 ton Troybuilt model. It has been a fantastic splitter. I figured it just needed a new valve. $200 and a oily mess later it was time to test the new valve. Guess what, the handle would still not release upon full retraction. The motor and pump start dead heading until you manually reverse the handle. It sounds like it is making a lot of pressure but the handle will not release. Can anyone tell me what might be wrong?
This is real frustrating after spending $200 and 3 hrs of hard labor. I am probably going to take it to the dealer tomorrow but I would rather solve this myself. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
CJ

 

[muddstopper]

Have you actually checked the pressure to see if its within specs. The control valves works by allowing a pressure buildup to automaticly center the valve. If your pump is not making enough pressure to center the control valve, then it would just set there and dead head without releasing automaticly. You can try adjusting the relief to a lower setting and see if that cures the control valve sticking. If it does, I would then suspect the pump is starting to see wear and not producing the pressure it once was. With a 33ton splitter, it probably has a 5in bore cylinder and at even a pressure setting of 1000psi, it would still have a splitting force of about 10 tons. More than enough to split just about everything but the nastiest of knarly logs. If the djusting of the detent relief stops the sticking control valve, check the system pressure to see what it is actually set at and then decide if you really need to fix the problem, or if its something you can live with.

 

[CJBOTA]

Muddstopper,
Thanks for replying. No, I have not checked the pressure. What you are saying makes sense to me. I think I'll take this somewhere to be checked. I don't have a pressure gage and I don't know how to adjust the relief valve. It sounds like I already wasted $200 on the new valve.
We split a lot of wood and I really need to get this fixed. Thanks again and I will report back on how things work out.
CJ

 

[murphy1244]

Where's that JJ when you need him?

 

[wdchyd]

two common things that happen is either your pump is worn or the piston seal in the hyd cyl is bypassing......if pressure doesn't get high enough to satisfy the detent valve it'll never jump back to neutral

to test the pump you'll need a flow/load meter to do it properly, but the piston seal in the cyl is the easiest to fix

 

[Leejohn]

What valve did you buy? Log splitter valves are under $100.00.

 

[CJBOTA]

I bought the valve from my dealer so it came from mtd (Troy bilt) I now realize I could have saved a bunch of money if I would have bought it thru northern hydraulics. The 16 gpm pump from mtd is $440 I bought the valve from my dealer because I wanted to make sure it fit up correctly.

 

[Tx Jim]

Pressure needs to be checked with a gauge. Will splitter split hard wood?

 

[muddstopper]

You can save a ton of money buying the pump from Northern tool as well. You can also find a 16gpm 2stage pump at tractor supply or surplus center for a fraction of the $440 price tag your dealer is quoteing. I bought a 28gpm pump from Spliteze for $195. Hydraulic log splitter 2 stage pump

 

[Leejohn]

There is 2 settings that have to be set, retract detent pressure relief and the main relief. The detent kickout pressure can be set to kickout when you want it to kickout, I would only ajust that after you get full psi.and set. But if it seems to be pumping good with little pressure I would check what wdchyd said about the piston and pump.

 

[Redneck in training]

When the pump is deadheaded check if the cylinder is getting hotter. Rise in temperature is sign of bypassing.

 

[CJBOTA]

My concern with buying a pump from Northern or tractor supply is will it mount up easily? If I get into messing with the mounting bracket, fittings, hoses, coupling, and / or god knows what else I will end up spending even more money. It really ticks me off that mtd rips me off on parts the way they do. But I think all the brands charge outrageous money for parts.
The splitter still spits wood but in doesn't seem to have as much power as it once had. I am hoping my dealer has the know how to to adjust the settings if necessary. I should know more in a couple of days.

 

[wdchyd]

.................... I am hoping my dealer has the know how to to adjust the settings if necessary. I should know more in a couple of days.

If the dealer doesn't have a flow/load meter to test it properly then find someone else.....it's not common for settings to just go out of whack, either the pump is good or bad.....if the pump tests out good (pressure AND flow) then move on to repack the cyl (more common)

 

[JerryK]

If you use your splitter much, and plan on keeping it long term.. you should consider adding a pressure gauge into the pump output circuit. I have had to adjust both my detent pressure [ the pressure it takes to return the valve to neutral on cyl return ] a couple times in my old splitter. Things wear, and springs change value over time with use and heat. You can have the gauge in the circuit all the time, or install a shut off valve just before the gauge to only stress it when you want to check pressure. That way you can monitor your pump output and also detent pressure.... Also note, you should usually use a pressure gauge that reads about twice the working pressure you are monitoring. If your pump puts out 2000#, then you want a 4000# gauge... Nothern, amongst other, sells the high pressure fittings/gauges to get what you need.

 

[CJBOTA]

First I want to thank everyone for all the helpful information. The dealer called and said the pump would only make 900 psi, it is supposed to make 2500 psi. I am not surprised, the splitter is atleast 12 years old and we have split atleast 10 cord of wood every year, maybe more.
Anyway, the bad news is the dealer told me Troy bilt (mtd) won't just sell me a pump, I have to buy a "service kit" which includes a bunch of other stuff I don't need. The kit is $900, I just about had a heart attack. I told the dealer I could buy just the pump on line at the Troy bilt website for $444 which I feel is about double what it should be, but I am willing to go that far.
I realize they don't want you to bash the brands or dealers but this seems ridiculous to me. I have been one to always support the dealers I buy from but things have really gotten out of hand in recent years. The dealer said he would call Monday and see if they will sell just the pump. If not I will buy a pump from northern hydraulics and do it myself. Thanks again for all the information, I really appreciate the help.

 

[J_J]

Just purchase this pump

From Surplus Hyd.11 GPM 2 STAGE HYD PUMP S21202-5292

If you have 8 HP purchase this pump.

16 GPM 2 STAGE HYD PUMP

Log splitter valve $80.


http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...RINCE-HCSVG0002-LS3000-LOG-SPLITTER-VALVE.axd

 

[muddstopper]

Changing the pump shouldnt be all that hard. Most of the wood splitter pumps all use either the 2bolt amount or the 4 bolt mount. Just see which one in on your pump and buy the one that matches. Shaft sizes are normally the same also. This a really simple do it yourself swap, nothing mysterious about it. If you can turn a wrench you can do the swap in about 30 min and be up and running. If fact, if you buy just the pump from your dealer, you will have to change it yourself or pay them extra to do it for you. If you are going to have to do the work anyways, why pay the dealer, or the manufacturer either for that matter, about twice what it would cost you to buy the pump from one of the venders already listed.

 

[wdchyd]

First I want to thank everyone for all the helpful information. The dealer called and said the pump would only make 900 psi, it is supposed to make 2500 psi..

How did they determine that...??

tee'd guage in the pressure line then stroke out the cyl.......dead head pump from the pressure line?...... or use a flow meter?

 

[muddstopper]

How did they determine that...??

tee'd guage in the pressure line then stroke out the cyl.......dead head pump from the pressure line?...... or use a flow meter?

I wonder the same thing. Something sounds fishy to me. The high flow low pressure side of the 2stage pump shouldnt make over 900psi. If they didnt fully extend or retract the cylinder and then hold the control valve long enough for the pump to kick into the low flow high pressure stage, it wouldnt show over 900psi. I would want to know a little more about how they tested the pump before I shelled out $444 for one of their new pumps, or $900 for a pump kit, what ever that is. If it is truely the pump that is bad, I would look here, http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...og-Splitter-Pumps/16-GPM-2-STAGE-HYD-PUMP.axd and do some soul searching, big difference in price) before letting the dealer install any pump.

 

[CJBOTA]

I think I understand what you are saying. Is this a correct way to explain how the system operates? The pump should make 900 psi with high flow until it sees a load the second stage kicks in and allows the pump to build to 2500 psi.if they didn't create a load the pump would only make 900 psi.
I am going to the dealer in the morning and try to find out how they tested the pump. The last thing I want to do is buy a pump and find that the cylinder needs seals.