cdaigle430
Veteran Member
Sorry, I only have dishonest suggestions so I cant help you.
Sorry, I only have dishonest suggestions so I cant help you.
I was in the same situation 2 years ago, except i was shopping for a dually for my new 4000 lbs pin wirht toy hauler. Back then, it came down to a dmax ( lbz, mid 06 to mid 07) or a dodge mega ( specially for the mega cab). A 5.9 would have been prefered in the cummins , but it would have required a transmission upgrade for the 14 000 lbs rv.
Finally got a sweer deal on a 06 dmx dually, LBZ, 6 speed allison with 95 000 km. Been trouble free. Averaging 15 mpg local drivng. My wife got 19 mpg on a few long trip unloaded, I never did. The only thinh to consider with these years GM. Is to eventually do a transfer case pump rubbing issue before it hit 150 000 miles.
I have 340,000 miles on my 94' 12 valve. With stock tires and topper I actually got 26mpg hand calculated. Now with no topper and 285s I get around 21mpg. I can stretch that a bit if I keep my foot out of it but maybe only 1 or 2 mpgs. I'm trying to give you real world numbers, so I'll just say an avg of 21 now.
When it comes to towing I can speak from a lot of experience. BUY A DIESEL! If youre a Powerstroke guy, a Duramax guy or a Cummins guy, I don't care. They each have their ups and downs (except for 12 valves cummins)
I currently own (that I tow with) a gas Chevy 1500 HD with 6.0 liter and 4L80E tranny. It's a 3/4 ton truck with 3,000lb payload and towing capacity of 10,000lb. It has "tow mode" which is a glorified way of letting the computer change the shift points and lockup on the torque converter. It's about 300hp and 360lb/ft torque. Sounds good right? NO! That truck couldn't tow it's way out of a wet paper bag! Sure, if I wanna burn up my tranny and break stuff it "COULD" haul my tractor on the hills of KY, but I know it's limits and it mostly hauls groceries, kids and lawn mowers.
I've also got the 94' 12valve Cummins. Stock HP is only about 160hp but FOR FREE you can get that up to about 360 at the crank. I advanced my timing 16*, got rid of the fuel plate, and put some 4,000rpm governer springs on it. Of course I beefed up the tranny and TC or it would just chew em up now. It's a beast! There is NO comparison to ANY gasser I've ever used and that includes the Ford V10.
Something to remember...AGAIN...get an upgraded valve body transmission. If you cant lock out at low speeds you will burn up almost any transmission. Theres a lot of misguided folks out there bad mouthing transmissions that were never designed to do what they did to em. If your tranny is not locked out and you are pushing high RPMs/torque your fluid will heat up quick fast and in a hurry. Nothing is gonna snap or "blow" at that moment usually, but what youve done is DRASTICALLY shorten the life of your TC and tranny. These kids do this, then 6 months later run down the road and the tranny starts acting up when theyre not even hauling something and they trash talk the tranny that they treated like a borrowed mule 6 months before. Of course it's gonna give out. You can't run 300 degree temps in a tranny...ANY tranny and expect it to last.
Can you explain this a little bit. I used to work at a trannie shop so I know the jargon, I thought, but lock out what? The TC, or lock into lower gear? Maybe a short course on diesel driving is in order. I know when the gasser down shifts I try to keep it from "hunting" for a gear, as in, revving to 4K and up shifting only to start bogging down an down shifting again. That's what mine was trying to do when I just held it down to 35 mph and lived with the slow crawl.
Is there a danger of overpowering the TC with all that torque? Seems I've read of guys getting special TC's with multi disks to overcome that. Or is that only necessary when really upping the HP numbers?
Is there a danger of overpowering the TC with all that torque? Seems I've read of guys getting special TC's with multi disks to overcome that. Or is that only necessary when really upping the HP numbers?