Chain Hooks

/ Chain Hooks #1  

ice12585

New member
Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Messages
23
Location
port orchard, wa
Tractor
Kubota L3200
So chain hooks!!!! Before I weld a bunch of hooks all over my tractor, Im hoping to get a few
pics from anyone out there that has put them on their tractor. What im really after is the best
placement for them. I realize that there are some common places to put them, but has anyone
found any really useful location ones they use more than others.?

photo 8.JPG

photo 1.JPG My new bumper for the trailer, made it removable as to make the trailer more functional

photo 3.JPG

photo 5.JPG I have seen a few of these on tractors every once in a while any thoughts

photo 7.JPG
 
/ Chain Hooks #2  
You do not want to load bucket more on one side then the other. The center of the bucket is the weakest section.

Weld or bolt two chain grab hooks approximately in line with FEL lift arms.

I used to have a center hook but found I rarely used it.

The bucket on my B3300SU is about like the bucket on your L3200.

You may find Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks more satisfactory than welding grab hooks on your relatively light bucket.

Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Home>>
 

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/ Chain Hooks #3  
Doesn't have to be a hook, a chain slot works also. Plus you can run the chain either direction! :D

Think about putting a thick angle iron across the top of the bucket, with slots near each end and one in the middle.

Chain slots in the channel iron fork frame.
PC040005.JPG PC040007.JPG P8181941.JPG

Chain slots in the brush fork frame.
P8110011.JPG P8110016.JPG P9050003.JPG
 
/ Chain Hooks #4  
Weld a chain that stretches across. Then you could hook anywhere??

The slotted bar is probable the better of all suggestions!
 
/ Chain Hooks #5  
There are THOUSANDS of posts and pictures on this subject, and most agree that having the hooks inline with the loader arms is the best location.
 
/ Chain Hooks #6  
For my tractor tie down points I welded D-rings to the bottom of the loader support bracket. That way I can pass chains through the D-rings on the tractor and the ones on the trailer and tighten the chain with a ratchet binder. At the rear I added clevis pin hooks for the chains.
 

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/ Chain Hooks #8  
How did you collect all those bucket hook photos?
 
/ Chain Hooks #9  
Here's what I did,

I welded one hook onto a mounting plate that I bought from Ken's on the lower portion of the rear of the bucket. I also welded a shackle mount to one of Ken's plates and welded it to the underside of the bucket lip inside the bucket. Combined with a clevis shackle I can use that for a single point lift using straps for lighter items.

I got a length of 3/16X3X3 angle to set on top of the bucket lip which would then be welded to the lip and to the back of the bucket. 1 hook in the center and the other 2 centered on the FEL arms. I added 2 small shackle mounts that I got from Ken's outboard of the hooks, again just for lighter lifts with nylon straps.

IMG_5320_zps90d3bd60.jpg


IMG_5319_zps33900b8c.jpg


IMG_5314_zps4f02dd56.jpg
 
/ Chain Hooks #10  
Heck, you even got some of my Tigged up copper crush washers and my welder in there, as well as some of my bucket hooks, and a broken hook I Tig welded back together.:shocked:

James K0UA
 
/ Chain Hooks #11  
Here is a picture from TBN of the chain slot that I described in my earlier post.

268900-53-138636-Apr14_09.jpg
The advantage is you can run the chain behind the bucket for maximum lifting power, or you can run it forward like most hooks are set. :thumbsup:
 
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/ Chain Hooks #12  
How did you collect all those bucket hook photos?

Heck, you even got some of my Tigged up copper crush washers and my welder in there, as well as some of my bucket hooks, and a broken hook I Tig welded back together.

Click on the link and look in the search term field to see how I did it. :)

Bruce
 
/ Chain Hooks #14  
I have two bolted with 4 links of chain to the inside of the bucket sides. I like them wide as possible but not outside. The little bit of chain on the hooks seems to help keep the load chain from coming out of the hook as things move around. It also allows the hook to follow as you tilt up or down.

I also have a similar one dead center on the bottom of the bucket inside. Note- the short chains do rattle a bit when not being used.
 
/ Chain Hooks #15  
Xfaxman, how did you cut your slots? And typically, what is the thickness of the slot metal, it looks mostly 1/4". How does that hold up to normal use?

Thanks!
 
/ Chain Hooks #16  
Xfaxman, how did you cut your slots? And typically, what is the thickness of the slot metal, it looks mostly 1/4". How does that hold up to normal use?

Thanks!
I used my drill press and a 3/8 drill bit to make the bottom of the slot and a metal cutting band saw to cut the sides. A reciprocating saw will also work.

1/4" is right on the thickness. I made the fork frame about 28 years ago, I don't think normal use would ever wear it down to be unuseable.
 
/ Chain Hooks #17  
Excellent! Thank you!
 
/ Chain Hooks
  • Thread Starter
#18  
that is a great idea for moving three point stuff around thanks, im going to build one this weekend!!!!
 
/ Chain Hooks
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Your Quick attach look different did you build that??? also the chain hook on the bottom back of the bucket do you find that you us it very much???
 
/ Chain Hooks #20  
I started out by running a piece of 3" channel accross the top of my bucket and welding hook loops to both ends. I like the width for better stability when tying large loads( Fridge, stove) in the bucket. I also have one large hook dead center for straight lifts or pulls.
A piece of 3-5" channel is great to cut chain slots in for heavy loads.( Even for storing chain on the 3pth.)
 

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