Ballast Roller - How much weight + any advice

[Wagtail]

G'day fellow TBN Members!

I attempted to search previous threads but there are a fair number of alternative names for this implement so I've provided a picture of what I've bought:



It's advertised as a FIBR1500 Ballast Roller.

My question is (what with your combined experience) how much ballast should I put into this? What type of ballast? And any tips you have on using it.

Background info: The JD 4105 with 300CX FEL + 4in1 bucket (for front ballast), iMatch QH on the back. I'm going to fertilize/seed first, then till, somewhat sandy soil mixed with previously spread horse manure. The roller is to pack it all down so that the roots will establish in a stronger base as horses will be grazing once its all good to go.

Ta Mates! :thumbsup:

 

[Sysop]

You want it 100% full. Most folk use water. As long as it is full with no air, oxidization (rusting) won't occur as it needs air to rust. You also want it 100% full so the water weight can't shift side to side inside the unit making the "downhill side" heavier and shifting the center of gravity of your tractor (weight shifting unpredictably and off-center loads have been the cause of more than one rollover). No worries, your JD can handle the weight fine totally full.

 

[LD1]

Yep, water or similar.

Doesnt look to be the heaviest of frames, so I would NOT fill it with sand or concrete or the like. I think that would be too much weight for the way its designed

 

[jimmysisson]

Agree with LD1, except not sure of size?? 1,000 to 1,300 lbs of water might stress the rear 3 pt strut? Is it made to be filled? The spikes make sure it rolls, not skids? Cool looking rig.
Jim

 

[Sysop]

His tractor is rated to 2200lbs at 24", I'd be more concerned about ensuring it is full if using fluid so it's not sloshing around. Generally you drag them in a straight line, and lift to turn at the end of the rows (otherwise the spikes either tear the turf or bend as you turn). While turning you don't want it half full and weight transferring from side to side due to the ballast sloshing around inside.

 

[LD1]

His tractor is rated to 2200lbs at 24", I'd be more concerned about ensuring it is full if using fluid so it's not sloshing around.

I think he was referring to the roller itself not handling the weight. As was I. I know his tractor is plenty big enough.

 

[Sysop]

I think he was referring to the roller itself not handling the weight. As was I. I know his tractor is plenty big enough.

Ahhh,, yea, gotcha :thumbsup: I agree that 3pt part of the unit is underbuilt for any substantial weight.

 

[Midniteoyl]

If water, put a gallon or two of this in there to help protect the metal.. I know they say 'if full its ok', but thats hogwash IMHO. Oxygen comes from the water

Sierra, Gallon, Antifreeze, Biodegradable, Non-Toxic Propylene Glycol,

 

[lostcreekranch]

Or this one for about $17/ gallon.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/afz/lowtox.jpg

 

[OldMcDonald]

Wagtail, I ask the same questions as jimmysisson about whether it is intended to be filled, or perhpas just a small amount of ballast added? You have not given the size, but if it is 6 feet long and 18" diameter it will take about threequarters of a ton/tonne of water to fill it. Is the frame designed to lift that weight? Having farmed in Oz through the '80s I know how helpful the dealers are there. What do they say? Are the spikes removable? It looks more like an aerator than a grassland roller.

 

[oosik]

Well,
Midniteoyl, you are 100% correct IYHO regarding the rusting. The "O" in H20 provides ample oxygen for rusting. So either do not fill it or put rust inhibitor in if you fill with water. The unit is designed to hold something - note the bung in the drum end or its just made from 55gal drums.

 

[LD1]

You have not given the size, but if it is 6 feet long and 18" diameter it will take about threequarters of a ton/tonne of water to fill it.

Not even close.

IF it is 18" x6', it will hold about 79 gallons of water. Which is a shade over 650lbs. Certainly nowhere near 1500#

As to the oxygen in the water......it is only a limited supply of free oxygen. The H2 needs to keep ahold of that oxygen to remain in water form. There will be very little rusting if filled full and air tight. Even if not full, it wont rust much cause once the little bit of oxygen is gone, no more rusting.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Or this one for about $17/ gallon.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/afz/lowtox.jpg

LOL.. I didnt pay attention to the price there

 

[Sysop]

The "O" in H20 provides ample oxygen for rusting.

ASAIK you need to bring the water to way beyond it's simple boiling temps and provide enough room for expansion before any of the H2 and O could begin to split. Otherwise even when boiled it is water vapor where the molecules are still bound together.

Not even close.

IF it is 18" x6', it will hold about 79 gallons of water. Which is a shade over 650lbs. Certainly nowhere near 1500#

As to the oxygen in the water......it is only a limited supply of free oxygen. The H2 needs to keep ahold of that oxygen to remain in water form. There will be very little rusting if filled full and air tight. Even if not full, it wont rust much cause once the little bit of oxygen is gone, no more rusting.

Your math lines up more with mine. That 3 pt frame on that roller still may not hold up under the total combined weight though...

Your science lines up with mine too, the oxidation process uses any oxygen and once there is no oxygen the oxidation process stops.

 

[Wagtail]

Doesnt look to be the heaviest of frames, so I would NOT fill it with sand or concrete or the like. I think that would be too much weight for the way its designed

G'day everyone & thank you very much for the advice (so far).

The seller sent me this advice after I asked him about the recommended filling... "had one customer break the bearing carriers driving it around full of water.
We rectified the problem by mounting them on the top of the frame so they were fully supported."

There's not a huge market for these rollers for a CUT or Cat1 here in Aus. The 3PH ones that I found whilst researching were all of a simillar design, including the frame/mounting arrangement. Due to the small sizes of my paddocks, the 3PH mounting is the most practical way for me to utilise the implement.

In Imperial measurement, the roller is 5'.

Thanks Sysop for your quick response & good advice... 'sloshing' would, indeed, add a danger factor that I should've considered. I may have fairly flat paddocks but it doesn't take much to cause a dangerous situation. 100% full it will be!

In my neck of the woods, an anti-freeze additive really isn't required. The lowest tempurature this winter was a couple of hours at -2c (just below freezing) for a frost. No snow. That being said, a rust inhibiter would be good... I'm on tank water so I wouldn't want to waste any by emptying/re-filling everytime I need to use it (which wouldn't be that often).

 

[Midniteoyl]

Water has oxygen dissolved in it...

Also, dont forget other degrading solutions are sulfur dioxide in water and carbon dioxide in water. Under these corrosive conditions, iron hydroxide species are formed. Unlike ferrous oxides, the hydroxides do not adhere to the bulk metal. As they form and flake off from the surface, fresh iron is exposed, and the corrosion process continues until either all of the iron is consumed or all of the oxygen, water, carbon dioxide, or sulfur dioxide in the system are removed or consumed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust

 

[Sysop]

Water has oxygen dissolved in it...

No, water is built from oxygen and hydrogen. One molecule of oxygen for every two molecules of hydrogen. They don't easily separate nor can you "dissolve" any extra oxygen into it without changing it from water to something else. Adding one extra molecule of oxygen, creates H2O2 which is pure hydrogen peroxide (which they generally dilute with water for sale to the public for use on cuts and scrapes).

 

[Wagtail]

Wagtail, I ask the same questions as jimmysisson about whether it is intended to be filled, or perhpas just a small amount of ballast added? You have not given the size, but if it is 6 feet long and 18" diameter it will take about threequarters of a ton/tonne of water to fill it. Is the frame designed to lift that weight? Having farmed in Oz through the '80s I know how helpful the dealers are there. What do they say? Are the spikes removable? It looks more like an aerator than a grassland roller.

G'day Mate. I haven't received the implement yet (advised it was shipped yesterday from the mainland. Tassie is an island with a big 'moat', so it should be ready for pick-up by Tuesday) so I've not seen any operator's manual. The 1500 is 5 feet wide. I do not know the diameter as of yet.

That being said, it is designed to be filled, hence the 'ballast' in the title. The spikes are designed to be removed if required... I can see shiny nut/bolts on the spike bands.

I appreciate your, and everyone elses responses. Ta.

 

[Midniteoyl]

No, water is built from oxygen and hydrogen. One molecule of oxygen for every two molecules of hydrogen. They don't easily separate nor can you "dissolve" any extra oxygen into it without changing it from water to something else. Adding one extra molecule of oxygen, creates H2O2 which is pure hydrogen peroxide (which they generally dilute with water for sale to the public for use on cuts and scrapes).

So fish gills are actually Fuel Cells???

There is oxygen dissolved in water... along with other things. Pure, deoxygenated water, no, but try to get SOME


4Fe(s) + 3O2(aq) + 6H2O(l) --> 4Fe(OH)3(s) ..... rust formed under water
4Fe(s) + 3O2(g) + 2H2O(l) --> 4FeO(OH)(s) .... the most common form of rust
2FeO(OH) ---> Fe2O3 + H2O .... the reaction for the dehydrate of rust

 

[Sysop]

G'day Mate. I haven't received the implement yet (advised it was shipped yesterday from the mainland. Tassie is an island with a big 'moat', so it should be ready for pick-up by Tuesday) so I've not seen any operator's manual. The 1500 is 5 feet wide. I do not know the diameter as of yet.

That being said, it is designed to be filled, hence the 'ballast' in the title. The spikes are designed to be removed if required... I can see shiny nut/bolts on the spike bands.

I appreciate your, and everyone elses responses. Ta.

Looks like a pretty good piece of hardware, just go easy on any bumps when you have it lifted and it should be fine. Once you know the diameter of the drum you can better figure what this thing will weigh. If you don't think that 3pt hookup is strong enough given your uses, reinforcing it while it is new and straight is always easier than bending it first. I might do as that dealer had said and swap the drum to the top of the frame since that was an issue they had seen previously.