welding high grade chain for security?

[oldboyscout]

I've been looking for a way to secure my log splitter against theft. I'd like to weld a grade 80 chain to the rail because there's nowhere to wrap it around the splitter. It needs to be grade 80 (or maybe 100) so it can't be easily cut. Is this feasible?
thanks for any advice.

 

[Shield Arc]

When I worked as a rigger, I had to weld chain links together to make endless chains to handle wire rope. I used 309 stainless steel rod.

 

[Scooby074]

 

[gwdixon]

^^^Yeah, those battery powered grinders are security nightmares.

Anyway, a 3/8" grade 80 or 100 chain is going to deter bolt cutters and hack saws. If they are smart (can that be?) they would likely cut at the weld where the metal has softened.

That's about all you can do if your going to leave a piece of equipment where it can be accessed. Just slow them down.

I have fenced and locked access with three "junkyard" dogs. Actually, they are wimps but will raise a ruckus.

 

[Arc weld]

If somebody wanted your log splitter bad enough, they'd take it no matter what you did. If you want to make it hard to cut or grind, put some chromium carbide hard facing on cheaper chain. It takes a long, long time to grind it.

 

[mikehaugen]

Grinders are noisy and very conspicuous especially at night so they are far less common than bolt cutters for thieves. I have heard that square chain is much harder or impossible to cut with bolt cutters, but I don't have first hand experience with it. There is not much you are going to do to prevent a cordless cut-off tool, so at least do what you can against bolt cutters. You could also drill a hole somewhere and use a good cable type bicycle lock. They are almost impossible without a torch or cut-off wheel.

 

[Coyote machine]

Here's an off the wall thought: how about a round bar going from one wheel across to the other with a flat flange on one side and a hole on the other so you could use a security type padlock with a protected hardened shackle? On one end you would weld a flange that would be flat faced and would make it impossible to get to the rod, and on the other end would be the padlock going through the hole? On the padlock end of the rod possibly another flange with an oversized hollow rod section with a hole drilled through it so it could slip on and protect the padlock from being accessed with anything but the key or combo?

 

[oldboyscout]

I know this will just be a deterrent. I figure bolt cutters are so cheap now that everyone has them, so if the chain can't be snipped easily that would be good. Sucks about the grinders though.
I am worried about losing the hardness of the link that gets welded to the splitter.
I did think about trying to secure through the wheels somehow, but of course the wheels can be removed easily.

 

[CNC Dan]

leave a few cheap tools, and some oily engine parts on in and they may think it's broken and not worth stealing.

 

[Shield Arc]

I am worried about losing the hardness of the link that gets welded to the splitter.

Once the welding is done, and cooled down to the touch. Use a torch to heat the link to a cherry red in dim light and then pour some used motor oil on the link. Polish the link to reveal clean metal and reheat slowly until you see the bright steel area turn to a light straw color. This will surface harden the link. Might help some, if someone tries to use bolt cutters.

 

[CNC Dan]

I am worried about losing the hardness of the link that gets welded to the splitter.

weld a short piece of pipe over where the chain is welded. That will limit access to the welded chain. Then they would have to cut through the pipe first, then the chain.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

I don't know what's faster cutting chain, a battery powered grinder, or an oxyacetylene torch. Torch may take a couple secs to heat up the metal, but then it's like slicing butter with a hot knife.

 

[Coyote machine]

Q: If they have to remove both wheels that are attached with a steel rod through their spokes how do they move the splitter? AND, if both wheels are pulled tight to the lug nutz with the steel bar with padlock, how do they get the wheels off the wheel studs in the first place? A: they don't!

 

[bcp]

Doesn't matter how hard is is to get to the ends of a steel bar between the wheels. The bar is fully exposed between the wheels.

Bruce

 

[Coyote machine]

Doesn't matter how hard is is to get to the ends of a steel bar between the wheels. The bar is fully exposed between the wheels.

Bruce

Yeah, fully exposed, not unlike a chain, BUT how determined are the thieves to want to crawl around on the ground in the dark to try to cut a steel bar- at some point if they're really determined whether a chain or bar they could just winch it onto a trailer and cut it free elsewhere.
The idea is deterrent, not a solves theft under any conditions, yes?

 

[weldermike]

Unbolt the tongue when your not towing it.

 

[Shield Arc]

I like the bar through the wheel idea. Big enough piece of round stock would take some time to cut. I would try to incorporate a piece of pipe to protect the pad lock. We always did this on our tool vans / shipping containers.
Here is one I built years ago for my dad's barn.

 

[Coyote machine]

Shield Arc and OP: Protecting the padlock is described as best as I could by the following:..." On the padlock end of the rod possibly another flange with an oversized hollow rod section with a hole drilled through it so it could slip on and protect the padlock from being accessed with anything but the key or combo"

I could 'draw' a rudimentary sketch if push comes to shove?!

 

[Shield Arc]

I think I can visualize what you're trying to say Coyote machine. I'm a big believer in protecting pad locks. I use to carry a 24-inch crescent wrench in the tool box of my company pickup. I can't tell you how many pad locks I've twisted off with that wrench with no effort at all.

 

[weldermike]

Cough cough! Take the tongue off until you have to tow it.