Think I just tore my clutch out. ford 1520
JC-jetro
Elite Member
So You had a tired clutch? The price is not bad specially if it is dual clutch? Take a pic of the old clutch disk and pressure plate so we can tell what it is. If you have single clutch for sure I'd suggest all new throwout bearing, pilot bearing , disk and pressure plate. Last weekend I changed my son's Mitsubishi eclipse clutch for $100 combined with 16 hrs of pure agonizing pain in the neck sweat equity labor.
JC,
No, I was just checking prices. I didn't want to tear the tractor apart, and not be able to afford a new clutch right away. I can still move the machine right now. Once I tear into it, it won't go back together until it is fixed, and I really don't see anyway around it. I do not see an inspection cover/hole. So the way it appears I'm going to have to split the tractor to see even what was wrong.
I can't even start on it until I get my Moms Honda Accord back together. pulled motor and trans, putting back a new rebuilt short block. So I've still got a ways to go on that yet. Working full time, family duties doesn't allow for alot of extra time during the week. I'll get it though, I'll be sure to post my findings.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
I understand, one thing at a time. If you can put in a short block and do the a valve job on the old head then you're more than capable to do a clutch job on a smallish tractor. Even without inspection hole you can check and adjust throwout bearing to the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. I'd suggest you'd put a clear " witness mark" exactly where it is on on the adjustment clevis for your clutch. Study the mechanism and press the clutch as many time as you need to understand the linkage mechanism. You can adjust it forward and backward knowing where your original witness mark was. if you make it too lose then you can disengage clutch, make to tight and you're riding the finger (don't want to keep it there). A bit of trial and error and you might find the sweet spot where you can disengage the clutch fully without riding the fingers on pressure plate. You might get a few more years used of clutch disk left. All of this would not need a lot of time , expense and tractor split. Those prices are probably for parts only as find it difficult including the labor. You can do fine on buying clutch parts from Fleabay.
JC,
Thanks for that bit of advice, I am having difficulty finding any real info on the web. Like everything with this tractor is a secret. Unless I buy the service manual.
I'll play around with it some more before I actually tear it apart. Yeah I've been wrenching pretty much ever since I was old enough to hold a screw driver. Its just this is my first tractor I've had to work on, other than my riding mower.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
JC-jetro
Elite Member
What I meant was , what did you find looking thru the inspection hole ? how about your clutch components. ?
JC,
Yeah sorry I haven't got that far yet. once I seen I need a coupler, I left it as is until I can fully remove the loader. I have to take off the bracket that the loader sets into in order to get to the inspection hole. I ordered one so Its a slow process for me, but I'll get it.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Yep, It's like me . I always have more targets that I have bullets for. One thing at a time and eventuality you gain on it. You have committed to change the clutch and looking inside the bell housing is just to verify your choice.
Jc,
Jc,
OK, here's an update. I finally got my new hydro coupler. removed front end loader. Heres whats boggles my mind. Now everything seems to be working normally.other than a more than normal pedal movement. I mean I can let the clutch pedal out and when it catches it will almost pull the front end off the ground. Crazy. I removed the inspection plug. about 1 1/4 size hole, from what I can see nothing appears to be broke. This tractor has 2 PTO outputs. one for the rear, and one for a belly mower, that isn't attached. Can having either one of these engaged cause the tractor to feel like its got a bad clutch. In my mind it shouldn't. I'm going to play around with the adjustment some now that its easier to get to with loader off. I check back in on how that whats out for me.
SPYDERLK
Super Star Member
- Joined
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- JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500
Glad for the remission. ... May be false. Sudden appearance of play is a sign of the clutch getting thicker - something that a disintegrating clutch could do by the lining moving. A test you could try is to get going med slo but wide open down a mild incline. Then let off the throttle, push in the clutch for a second or so to let the engine slo, then let the clutch out. This will load the clutch opposite to the normal direction and tend to move the lining [if indeed displaced] back toward its normal position. If it moves things will change and youll notice. If it doesnt youre still in the dim on the cause. :confused3:
larry
I'm with you on this one, doesn't make since for a mechanical part to all of sudden to quit working properly and then start working. May since it is working, I'll do some more moving of stuff unitl it quits again. LOL. Hate for my tractor to be out of commission. You realize how much you use it when its broke and cant use it..
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Barry,
Can you do without using a loader? if so I'd be using it to see if the problems comes back and persist. when You inspected inside of bell housing could you verify single or dual clutch?. All might look good with clutch plate thinning out and potentiality slipping under certain loading. were able to verify visually distance between fingers on pressure plate and the release bearing? as clutch plate gets used up the fingers on the pressure plate rotate outward making them closer to the real ease bearing. On single clutch by rotating the flywheel slightly you can figure out clutch disk thickness by using a paper gauge and comparin git to oem disk.
JC,
Can you do without using a loader? if so I'd be using it to see if the problems comes back and persist. when You inspected inside of bell housing could you verify single or dual clutch?. All might look good with clutch plate thinning out and potentiality slipping under certain loading. were able to verify visually distance between fingers on pressure plate and the release bearing? as clutch plate gets used up the fingers on the pressure plate rotate outward making them closer to the real ease bearing. On single clutch by rotating the flywheel slightly you can figure out clutch disk thickness by using a paper gauge and comparin git to oem disk.
JC,
From what I was able to see its a dual clutch. And to answer your question yes and no I can use it with or without the loader. I have a few things needing done, some I can use my 3 point implements, and the others I need lifting ability of the loader. I'll have to be more cautious of the clutch though.
Again, I am far from new to the wrenches, but am a rookie when it comes to diagnosing a tractor. I'll see If I cant get a pic of what I see looking thru the hole. Not much at all, It looks like the clutch pressure plate an,d such are about 4-5 inches thick combined. SO In my mind that would say to me higher possibilty to a dual clutch setup over a single.
The weather here has been terrible making it hard to get much done. I mean its only rained 2 times this summer. Once for 30 days, and 45 for the next.
Again, I am far from new to the wrenches, but am a rookie when it comes to diagnosing a tractor. I'll see If I cant get a pic of what I see looking thru the hole. Not much at all, It looks like the clutch pressure plate an,d such are about 4-5 inches thick combined. SO In my mind that would say to me higher possibilty to a dual clutch setup over a single.
The weather here has been terrible making it hard to get much done. I mean its only rained 2 times this summer. Once for 30 days, and 45 for the next.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Barry ,
Take a pic to see if we can decipher. Again, let's just say you are in second gear , pto on and you are slowly moving forward and then you press the clutch 1/2 way, in that fix ,does the tractor comes to a stop while the pto continues running? in a dual clutch jobby you will not see disk thickness like what I pictured on my 1700 above.
JC,
Take a pic to see if we can decipher. Again, let's just say you are in second gear , pto on and you are slowly moving forward and then you press the clutch 1/2 way, in that fix ,does the tractor comes to a stop while the pto continues running? in a dual clutch jobby you will not see disk thickness like what I pictured on my 1700 above.
JC,
