Compact 4WD utility Tractors with Chains on front tires.

[JoeL4330]

I chain all 4 each winter. "Overdrive" business only matters on hard-packed, high-traction surfaces ...like highway. 4-wheelers often chain all 4 for snow...I do, and I have chains for all four wheels of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, my F-350, and my 4wd Escape. All these "overdrive" and so I simply remove chains for high-traction, hard-pack. If you don't, one axle will wrap up (torque) and then chirp the tires and slip, which is not recommended [in case they don't chirp/slip, in which case something else--not good--gives.]

 

[vtsnowedin]

I chain all 4 each winter. "Overdrive" business only matters on hard-packed, high-traction surfaces ...like highway. 4-wheelers often chain all 4 for snow...I do, and I have chains for all four wheels of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, my F-350, and my 4wd Escape. All these "overdrive" and so I simply remove chains for high-traction, hard-pack. If you don't, one axle will wrap up (torque) and then chirp the tires and slip, which is not recommended [in case they don't chirp/slip, in which case something else--not good--gives.]

I hear you but quite a few of the members here have paved driveways they are clearing and it wouldn't be fair to tell them to chain it all up all the time without explaining what was going on and what might happen on a paved surface. We all have quite a bit of money tied up in our tractors and nobody wants to damage theirs or wear it out prematurely for lack of understanding. A member who had never heard this discussion might hear his fronts chirp repeatedly (if they can chirp with chains on) and think nothing of it until the front U joint split apart in the middle of a snow storm. It is not a question of just using front chains or not , it is the question of when where and how to use them .

 

[mangus580]

I chain all 4 each winter. "Overdrive" business only matters on hard-packed, high-traction surfaces ...like highway. 4-wheelers often chain all 4 for snow...I do, and I have chains for all four wheels of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, my F-350, and my 4wd Escape. All these "overdrive" and so I simply remove chains for high-traction, hard-pack. If you don't, one axle will wrap up (torque) and then chirp the tires and slip, which is not recommended [in case they don't chirp/slip, in which case something else--not good--gives.]

I can almost guarantee you, that your jeep, f350, and escape do not have an overdriving front axle.

 

[lungdoc]

If on snow and loose surfaces ie not hard pavement my view is the load on the front axles with chains on all 4 wheels is still less than the load of using a loader on hard surfaces in the summer: much more ability for slip.

 

[DK35vince]

If on snow and loose surfaces ie not hard pavement my view is the load on the front axles with chains on all 4 wheels is still less than the load of using a loader on hard surfaces in the summer: much more ability for slip.

That's certainly been my experience and I run chains on the front every winter.

 

[ericher69]

That's certainly been my experience and I run chains on the front every winter.

This front axle thing is a non issue...they are limited slip so unless something goes wrong or it has been modified no danger of doing any damage with chains (unless you have clearance issues of course)

 

[olekid]

What if you tried using the right and left brake pedals to help steer?

 

[herbertperform]

Hello Folks;

Are any of you running chains on the front tires of you Compact 4WD utility. We have R-4 on our 3320 and they are working much better then then R-3 Turf tires did on our previous 3320.

Problem is pushing a good head of snow with the blower and trying to go around a curve. The tires are clean and pulling good but the tractor will not turn. Need to stop, lift the blower, back up a bit and give her another push. I figure chains might be the best solution

Any place to get a good deal on chains?

You guys are the greatest. Such great information. thanks, nicholas

I have a JD 3320 that I just bought last Summer. I have the same issue. I talked to my John Deere dealer and they said many of the John Deere compact tractors with cabs should not have rear chains installed because of clearance problems. Apparently the gas tank and rear fenders are closer to the tire than a non cab model. The hydraulic lines are what concern me. They are too close to the rear tire. Wouldn't want a loose chain hitting them. I have heard of people adding tire spacers for the rear to install chains. For me, I will just install them on the front as my John Deere dealer suggested. I would think this should help steer the tractor much better. I bought some 2 link chains from Tire Chains by TireChains.com and will put them on this week to try out. I think they cost me about $140 with 2 day UPS shipping.

 

[herbertperform]

JD does not recommend using chains on front tires. Some slippage must occur to prevent damage in front end. Use chains on rear and use brakes on each side to help steer.

I had the chain conversation with my John Deere dealer a few weeks ago and was told on many of their compact tractors they do not recommend rear chains on cabbed models. Apparently the gas tank and fenders are some what close to the tires and the hydraulic lines look to be the largest concern. They are way to close to the inside of the rear tire. I was told that front chains are acceptable to use and they will not void the warranty on my JD3320.

 

[RoyJackson]

I had the chain conversation with my John Deere dealer a few weeks ago and was told on many of their compact tractors they do not recommend rear chains on cabbed models. Apparently the gas tank and fenders are some what close to the tires and the hydraulic lines look to be the largest concern. They are way to close to the inside of the rear tire. I was told that front chains are acceptable to use and they will not void the warranty on my JD3320.

Depending on the tire type, you can increase rear tire clearance by reversing the wheels, or swapping side to side. If that doesn't add adequate clearance, you can add 2"-4" spacers.
As far as your dealer comments...he's one of the few that OK'd the use of front chains (that I've read on TBN).

 

[herbertperform]

Depending on the tire type, you can increase rear tire clearance by reversing the wheels, or swapping side to side. If that doesn't add adequate clearance, you can add 2"-4" spacers.
As far as your dealer comments...he's one of the few that OK'd the use of front chains (that I've read on TBN).

I spoke to the head mechanic and the service manager separately and asked them the same chain questions. Both of these guys have been in the John Deere business for a very long time.They told me the front axle is plenty strong enough to handle chains if you don't have them on the rear. I was clearly told my warranty would not be void with the use of chains on the front only.

As far as the rear tires goes, I was told it's not worth the time to flip the tires around because it does not give enough space to make a difference. Spacers would be the only viable option to chain the rears and I hear you need 4" - 6 " spacers per side. Even then, especially if you have a cabbed model you need to keep the rear chains very tight because of the gas tank location and little clearance between the fenders and tires. The chain debate is one where you never get a consistent answer. The technology with 4WD and differentials has changed a great deal which is why you get a large variety of opinions as to where you should and shouldn't have chains installed.

What gets me, is on my 3320, the hydraulic lines are so close to my right rear tire that I can barely get my fingers between the hydraulic lines and the tire. This seems stupid to me. Another engineer hard at work with little common sense for how things work in the real world.

Why doesn't Deere apply a little common sense and make adequate room for chains? What person who owns a tractor does not intend to use chains at some point? Once again another mindless engineer at their finest.

 

[5picker]

I've run chains on all 4 for the last 6 winters.

Mine came from (as someone mentioned) tirechains.com

 

[pat32rf]

I've always been warned by friends NOT to put chains on the front, but I'm told JD sells spacers so you can install front chains. Maybe I'll make up a set for next winter to go with the ones on the rear of my 4300 (with reversed wheels)

 

[jgayman]

As far as the rear tires goes, I was told it's not worth the time to flip the tires around because it does not give enough space to make a difference. Spacers would be the only viable option to chain the rears and I hear you need 4" - 6 " spacers per side. Even then, especially if you have a cabbed model you need to keep the rear chains very tight because of the gas tank location and little clearance between the fenders and tires.

The clearance varies greatly by tractor model. I have a 2720 and run chains on all four tires. I did need to purchase the JD spacers for the front tires but for the rear I changed the tires to the wide position. On the 2720 the wide position made all the difference in the world as far as chain clearance goes.

I agree 100% that I don't understand why JD designs these tractors with the tire clearances so tight. They are tractors, not low riders. It is silly to have the fenders so close to the tires. My old Ford 8N had enough room between the tire and fender that I could stick my head in there.

 

[mmurphydds]

I have a JD 3320 that I just bought last Summer. I have the same issue. I talked to my John Deere dealer and they said many of the John Deere compact tractors with cabs should not have rear chains installed because of clearance problems. Apparently the gas tank and rear fenders are closer to the tire than a non cab model. The hydraulic lines are what concern me. They are too close to the rear tire. Wouldn't want a loose chain hitting them. I have heard of people adding tire spacers for the rear to install chains. For me, I will just install them on the front as my John Deere dealer suggested. I would think this should help steer the tractor much better. I bought some 2 link chains from Tire Chains by TireChains.com and will put them on this week to try out. I think they cost me about $140 with 2 day UPS shipping.

Seriously, guys, listen to yourselves...If you are plowing or blowing snow, and you need the traction...you will not be "chirping" anything, because there is snow on the ground! (which is slippery, otherwise you wouldn't need the traction). If your driveway is so clear and dry, you won't be blowing/plowing and you won't engage 4WD. This is a solution looking for a problem. I sure won't be driving my 4WD down a paved, dry, road--chains or not. Good luck, and I apologize if I'm really missing something obvious....

 

[art]

I've found on my driveway when I clean it where the tractor is the surface is bare or just wet blacktop and concrete so I certainly don't need chains!!!! This is done in float for the loader if that is what I'm using and I also use a snow blower from time to time like now. So why would I want to loose traction and scratch up my blacktop!!! The double ring chains we sell to the farmers are for virgin snow or deep snow travel. On black top we've found that no chains and turf tires work the best. Car type chains seem to work the best on gravel or stone drives.
We have started studding some of the industrial and ag tires although the turf are not able to take them.
They are very smooth on the road and so far seem to be working fine with customer enjoying them.

 

[chin]

Hey buddy, that's not a clutch and brake. its 2 brake pedals down there hahaha

 

[Karl2]

As far as your dealer comments...he's one of the few that OK'd the use of front chains (that I've read on TBN).

Most JD 4x4 CUT's have unsually roomy front wheel clearance provided wires hanging near them are tucked in and no mudguards are installed. But the need for front chains on a CUT is often debated, due to weight distribution issues.