Pitted Cylinder Rod: Repair or Replace

[KY Gun Geek]

Been searching and can't find clear guidance on this.

Equipment is a Shaver post driver.

The top 18" or so of an 6' - 8' rod is pitted. There is a single cup seal in the top of the cylinder which is leaking badly. I know the pitted dry rod was allowed to be dragged through the seal while the unit was being moved, and the unit is about 25 yrs old (no wonder it is leaking).

I can clean up rod and replace seal ($11.50 in parts) and try it, but this thing is a PITA to take apart and reassemble (heavy) so I don't really want to do that. I need to make a decision...

Comments here go something like "hit it with some emery cloth and change the seals", which makes sense, but obviously, there is a limit - once the rod is pitted "enough", you gotta replace it (or at least rechrome it). So how much is too much?



I have attached a pic, maybe it will help.



Thanks!

 

[Scooby074]

"there is a limit"

And your way past it

If that section rod goes past a seal at any time, it'll pretty much ruin it.

That rod needs to be replaced or rechromed if you want to try and keep seals in that cyl.

 

[Soundguy]

probably cheaper to repalce the rod than rechrome .. and it would be near impossible to fill pits anyway.

if it was a worker.. i'd hit it with 800 paper, then 1000 then 2000 then steel wool and replace the seal.

 

[puckgrinder85]

If you have to remove a lot of material to get it ok you still need to think about the rod and the bushing used to keep it riding true in the seal isnt going to cause issue. Too much and the rod will walk around and the seal cant seal it well enough to prevent a leak anyway.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Get a brillo steel wool soap pad and scub it well using water. This gets the rust off w/o abrasion. I think it wont look so bad after that and it will not be rough. A new seal may weep a little but will last. Mine was similar and has held up for years after cleaning and a new seal. You should not need to disassemble the driver - only take the cap off the cyl. The seal is in the cap.
larry

 

[Gale Hawkins]

How many hours a week do you plan to use and for how many weeks out of the year?
SPYDERLK's idea will help prevent cutting out the new $11.50 seal.

The cylinders on the old backhoe stabilizer pads are really gashed and look bad but both lift the rear just fine to max height if not trying to life the full weight of the tractor rear/hoe.

 

[wdchyd]

I like to do the fingernail test to determine damage......after clean-up if you can feel it with your fingernails, then the seal will feel it too

I think also you've gone past the point of repair and should look into replacing the rod.......the bigger trouble may be the rusted/frozen gland.....hopefully it is easy to disassemble

 

[Gale Hawkins]

wdskyd only if it is a high spot? Seals I do not think can fill the low places.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I like to do the fingernail test to determine damage......after clean-up if you can feel it with your fingernails, then the seal will feel it too

I think also you've gone past the point of repair and should look into replacing the rod.......the bigger trouble may be the rusted/frozen gland.....hopefully it is easy to disassemble

The only gland is the rod seal in the cyl cap.

 

[wdchyd]

wdskyd only if it is a high spot? Seals I do not think can fill the low places.

If it's a high spot it will slice the seal instantly.....if it's a low spot (corroded chrome) it will allow oil to pass under and eventually wear the seal rapidly

It's a balance of "fit & finish"....if either or both are not good then the seals will not hold up

 

[wdchyd]

The only gland is the rod seal in the cyl cap.

All the more reason to replace the rod if it's a single acting cyl (the pix doesn't show enough to determine that)

 

[J_J]

Replace the rod and seal and be done with it.

 

[KY Gun Geek]

I like to do the fingernail test to determine damage......after clean-up if you can feel it with your fingernails, then the seal will feel it too

I think also you've gone past the point of repair and should look into replacing the rod.......the bigger trouble may be the rusted/frozen gland.....hopefully it is easy to disassemble

Thanks for the replies.

I was able to get the frame broken down without killing myself. I got the nut off the top of the rod (3' of cheater pipe on an adjustable wrench). I was also able to get the 2 small bolts at the bottom loose - they hold the cylinder and the bottom spring bracket.

However, as noted in the above post, the collar that holds the seal won't budge. I have also tried a pipe wrench and the 3' cheater - nope. Part of the issue is that I'm generating enough force on that collar that it causes the rest of the frame to move and wiggle (as well as some flexing if the cylinder tube - it isn't attached anywhere except the bottom). So, I think I 'm going to take the cylinder out of the frame and try holding the cylinder with the pipe wrench, and a wrench on the collar. don't have lots of hope for this - pipe wrenches aren't the greatest in steel (a little hard so they slip). My also see if I can find a shop that can do it.

So the rest of the discussion may make the removal pointless.
The damage on the rod appears to be only pits (now). I took an emery cloth and a brillo pad to it and the it cleaned up ok.

Ok so some numbers to help with the discussion:

1) Seal is $11.50. Requires all this messing around to replace.

2) New rod is $325 + seal ($11.50) and requires about the same time/effort to replace as the rod.

3) Rechroming rod is about the same cost as a new ($275 + shipping) - same effort as replacement (getting the collar off)

4) Complete cylinder assembly is $622. Only need to install 1 plumbing fitting to get it to work.

So you see the range of outcomes here - $12 seal all the way up to $622 cylinder...

 

[KY Gun Geek]

Replace the rod and seal and be done with it.

LOL I like this.

However, what I struggle with is, could I have gotten it done real cheap? Heck, anybody can just whack out all the parts and be moving again.

Mmmm, but the real point here was to be able to build fence...

 

[KY Gun Geek]

All the more reason to replace the rod if it's a single acting cyl (the pix doesn't show enough to determine that)

Yep - single seal

 

[cmore]

If it were me, I would try cleaning/smoothing the rod and a new seal. If it works u are good. If not then it would not be as hard to tear it down again and replace both parts. All u are loosing is a new seal. Are u a gambler?

 

[Luremaker]

Thanks for the replies....

Ok so some numbers to help with the discussion:

1) Seal is $11.50. Requires all this messing around to replace.

2) New rod is $325 + seal ($11.50) and requires about the same time/effort to replace as the rod.

3) Rechroming rod is about the same cost as a new ($275 + shipping) - same effort as replacement (getting the collar off)

4) Complete cylinder assembly is $622. Only need to install 1 plumbing fitting to get it to work.

So you see the range of outcomes here - $12 seal all the way up to $622 cylinder...

I had a local hydraulic shop replace the seals, new rod for $99 last year on my HD8. Call around and see if a local shop can do it for you.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for the replies.

I was able to get the frame broken down without killing myself. I got the nut off the top of the rod (3' of cheater pipe on an adjustable wrench). I was also able to get the 2 small bolts at the bottom loose - they hold the cylinder and the bottom spring bracket.

However, as noted in the above post, the collar that holds the seal won't budge. I have also tried a pipe wrench and the 3' cheater - nope. Part of the issue is that I'm generating enough force on that collar that it causes the rest of the frame to move and wiggle (as well as some flexing if the cylinder tube - it isn't attached anywhere except the bottom). So, I think I 'm going to take the cylinder out of the frame and try holding the cylinder with the pipe wrench, and a wrench on the collar. don't have lots of hope for this - pipe wrenches aren't the greatest in steel (a little hard so they slip). My also see if I can find a shop that can do it.

So the rest of the discussion may make the removal pointless.
The damage on the rod appears to be only pits (now). I took an emery cloth and a brillo pad to it and the it cleaned up ok.

Ok so some numbers to help with the discussion:

1) Seal is $11.50. Requires all this messing around to replace.

2) New rod is $325 + seal ($11.50) and requires about the same time/effort to replace as the rod.

3) Rechroming rod is about the same cost as a new ($275 + shipping) - same effort as replacement (getting the collar off)

4) Complete cylinder assembly is $622. Only need to install 1 plumbing fitting to get it to work.

So you see the range of outcomes here - $12 seal all the way up to $622 cylinder...

Glad the rod cleaned up. Hope you were heavy with the soap pad and sparing with the emery. Abrasive removes sound material too easily. Try some heat on that cap. The old seal doesnt matter [and that and an O-ring I think I remember :confused2:] is all that is there other than metal.
larry

 

[KY Gun Geek]

Talked to a local shop.

For less than I could buy a new rod and seals (which are around $350) - actually about $75 less, they made from stock a new rod, and replaced the seals. They also had the right tools to remove and reassemble the cap - to keep me from destroying it...

This includes a 1 year warranty on parts.

Now to get the thing back together.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I guess the question is why you needed a new rod. :confused3: