check oil flow idea, good? dad?

[claypidgeon]

Thinking about goe mageeing something up to the oil sensor hole and running preshureized oil to check flow. What do you think, just might work or not?

 

[ctlguy]

I would cite the crow release hatch to the pondering wrench hole instead.

 

[claypidgeon]

ctiguy
I'm not familure with your crow realise hatch or pondering wrench hole. What are you talking about? Draw me a diagram, I need visual conformation.

 

[Ken]

ctiguy
I'm not familure with your crow realise hatch or pondering wrench hole. What are you talking about? Draw me a diagram, I need visual conformation.

claypidgeon Maybe try again to explain your idea. I have no idea what a "goe Mageeing " is either.
Now if the question was using some other method to flow pressurized oil in the engine to check for oil flow
A oil pump and container to hold the oil can run engine with dry sump. This is done with large gas compressor engines oil flow is returned to common tank.
Are you having a engine with oil problems and want to know where pressure is being lost. ?
The oil pan is no more than a container to hold fluid until pumped into the oil system of engine.
ken

 

[jones6780]

Bad idea! As you drain off oil to see the flow then it is not flowing to lubricate the engine. If you want to see flow pull the valve cover and look.

 

[claypidgeon]

Let me explane..
My problem is a rod bearing fried. I suspect it is due to a lack of oil to one lobe of the crank. That oil is suplied through the crank and surfaces through a hole in the jurnal. My pan is off and so is the head. I know that oil was getting to the other jurnal and also to the rocker arm asembly. I am suspicious of the problem area because of the fried bearing and the fact that I ran a wire up the suply hole and it came out dry. AS to my term "Joe Megge", I was refering to rigging something up to work in away you might not see done in a shop. The oil pressure sensor is mounted on the side of the block, the hole is threaded, and it is near the leavle of the crank. It seems reasonable to me, that if I remove the sensor and screw in a fitting that I can hook up some tubing to and run oil through the lower end of the oil track, I could find out if the passege way was clear to the crank jurnal in question. My question to you guys was " good idea, bad idea?". I do not think there would be any problems created by doing this, just thought I would check. Sorry about my spelling, I meant Bad not dad and joe not goe.

 

[EarPlug]

Let me explane..
AS to my term "Joe Megge", I was refering to rigging something up to work in away you might not see done in a shop.

I think the term is "Jury rigging" - Jury rigging refers to makeshift repairs or temporary contrivances, made with only the tools and materials that happen to be on hand.

 

[Ken]

Let me explane..
My problem is a rod bearing fried. I suspect it is due to a lack of oil to one lobe of the crank. That oil is suplied through the crank and surfaces through a hole in the jurnal. My pan is off and so is the head. I know that oil was getting to the other jurnal and also to the rocker arm asembly. I am suspicious of the problem area because of the fried bearing and the fact that I ran a wire up the suply hole and it came out dry. AS to my term "Joe Megge", I was refering to rigging something up to work in away you might not see done in a shop. The oil pressure sensor is mounted on the side of the block, the hole is threaded, and it is near the leavle of the crank. It seems reasonable to me, that if I remove the sensor and screw in a fitting that I can hook up some tubing to and run oil through the lower end of the oil track, I could find out if the passege way was clear to the crank jurnal in question. My question to you guys was " good idea, bad idea?". I do not think there would be any problems created by doing this, just thought I would check. Sorry about my spelling, I meant Bad not dad and joe not goe.

Look carefully at the bearing that failed possible it spun just enough to block the oil hole. And blow air into oil line to check if reaches the failed bearings.
keep replying as to what happened.
ken

 

[claypidgeon]

Thanks Ken..
I picked up some plastic fittings to rig up a pump to the oil filter mount. After studdying the oil flow scamatic I see that the oil enters the filter around the outside and then goes back into the motar through the center theaded filter mount. I am going to try to run oil through first. If the oil does not come out the hole in the jurnal I will try using air for the extra preshure. The plastic fittings are so I don't mess up the threads on the filter mount. As to a wether a chunk of bearing got up in the oil suply hole, I ran a wire up as far as I could and felt nothing. That dosen't mean there could still be something up there. I'm going to put something under the hole when I run my test so if some thing comes out I'll see it. I'm going to try to get to it today. I will keep you posted...

 

[claypidgeon]

Ran the oil flow test and all is good. Nice solid flow. Should get the head gasket tommorrow. I'll retorque the rod caps and put the pan back on while I'm waiting. There was no thermostat in the head when I took the thing apart. Contiplating putting one in. I't not that cold here in the winter but I live at nearly 3000 ft. We get alot of days in the 30's and 40's, I probably should. Any input on that?

 

[Ken]

Ran the oil flow test and all is good. Nice solid flow. Should get the head gasket tommorrow. I'll retorque the rod caps and put the pan back on while I'm waiting. There was no thermostat in the head when I took the thing apart. Contiplating putting one in. I't not that cold here in the winter but I live at nearly 3000 ft. We get alot of days in the 30's and 40's, I probably should. Any input on that?

I'm trusting you replaced the failed bearing with new bearing and used plastic guage to check for correct size. also checked for no problems with the crank journal in sizing. Is this the first time rebuilding this engine. some one prior could of had crank redone so small in measurment. check the removed bearing and purchase the same measurment.
Thermostat removed. or maybe not originally installed did the engine run cool or normal in temp. thermostat reduced water flow until reached correct temp then opens the flow. if ran good without may not need .
Maybe good time to ask what size or brand of engine. tractor lawn mower truck. stationary type ?
ken

 

[claypidgeon]

Ken..
The tractor is an early 80's Satoh Bull. the engine is a Mitsubishi KE130. Two cylinder deisel. AS to how the engine ran, I cann't tell you because it has never ran long enough for me to find out. I have been learning along the way about all the problems this rig has. The bearings were worn paper thin and the crank jurnal was scared. There was no way to plastic gauge them. Because of this I had to order bearings a size over and polish the crank the best I could and install them to check for play. I know this will not last forever but I might get some time to find anouther motor or save up the money to rebuild this motor from the cank up. I guess maybe it might be benaficial to not install a thermostat to keep the engine as cool as posible to maybe get my patch job to last a little longer. As to weather I have rebuilt an engine befor, not a deisel. However I have worked on lots of other engins from small utility motors up to V8's. All at home and flying by the seat of my britches. Most of the time I can figure things out but always apriciate any input I run across. I'm never afraid to ask questions and read manuals most of the time.

 

[Ken]

Ken..
The tractor is an early 80's Satoh Bull. the engine is a Mitsubishi KE130. Two cylinder deisel. AS to how the engine ran, I cann't tell you because it has never ran long enough for me to find out. I have been learning along the way about all the problems this rig has. The bearings were worn paper thin and the crank jurnal was scared. There was no way to plastic gauge them. Because of this I had to order bearings a size over and polish the crank the best I could and install them to check for play. I know this will not last forever but I might get some time to find anouther motor or save up the money to rebuild this motor from the cank up. I guess maybe it might be benaficial to not install a thermostat to keep the engine as cool as posible to maybe get my patch job to last a little longer. As to weather I have rebuilt an engine befor, not a deisel. However I have worked on lots of other engins from small utility motors up to V8's. All at home and flying by the seat of my britches. Most of the time I can figure things out but always apriciate any input I run across. I'm never afraid to ask questions and read manuals most of the time.

Maybe remove the crank shaft take to reliable location and have it redone then new bearing sized to the rebuilt crank. It can be done your self but the time required could be used else where. There is tools designed to self clean up the bearing shaft it has been years since seen it done.
Bearing worn thin so all bearings need to be replaced anyway.
ken

 

[claypidgeon]

Ken
you are probably right about the motor needing all bearing replaced. I will most likely get to that next year when I split the tractor to replace the clutch. The clutch still works but is adjusted all the way out. Iv'e never heard of a self cleaning bearing shaft tool. I suspect there is away of hand turning just about anything. There are places in the world were the nearest machine shop is over a thousand miles away.

 

[Ken]

Ken
you are probably right about the motor needing all bearing replaced. I will most likely get to that next year when I split the tractor to replace the clutch. The clutch still works but is adjusted all the way out. Iv'e never heard of a self cleaning bearing shaft tool. I suspect there is away of hand turning just about anything. There are places in the world were the nearest machine shop is over a thousand miles away.

I haven't seen the use since mid '60 but still have one made for a Model 'B' John Deer engine.
It consists of a board about 18" made of oak maple or some straight grain and strong. 1"X3" Then sawed straight in middle and a good hinge put on one end. (mine has a bolt ) Also a hole is drilled about 2 inches from the hinge or bolt end the little less than the size of the crank.
use fine wet /dry sand paper put in one side and put over the shaft. slowly move the board back and forth as the shaft is turned also to smooth the shaft. The other end of board has a adjustment bolt so could not over sand one area.
Using a tool to check for sizing and it will take several hours can re-do the shaft.
When satisfied you will need to develop a bearing to properly fit carefully file or sand paper the ends until the bearing is almost to tight. or purchase bearings undersized usually .002 then using known thickness shim material can get the bearing to fit properly. Thickness gage material is great stuff if used properly.
Know there is several will disagree but you stated not wanting to have done at machine shop. and burned bearing in existing engine.
Be clean careful and practice on some shaft type material to get experance.
The older flywheel type engines had babbitted bearings and a reamnig tool to get sizing of rod but the shaft still had to be correct .
Trust I explained this good enough if not ask again.
ken

f

 

[claypidgeon]

Thanks Ken..
Very interesting. Probably more affective then my strips of emory cloth. My engine is mostly back together, just a few topside stuff to get to. I need to find a bowl for the fuel filter. Seems my plastic bowl shrunk. Had to file the inside lip to get the filter to fit. Works but not great, seeps alittle deisel. Not becuse of my filing but becuse of the shrinkage, The O ring dosn't seat as good as it should. At least deisel is not as flamable as gas. Untill I get this fixed I may have to blead lines after she sits for awhile. I will let you know how it all turns out sometime this week she should be done. I know it will run for awhile. We will see.