Posthole Digger Old Posthole Digger Questions??

[LouieJunior]

My father used this old post hole digger when we were kids. Who knows what kind it is or how old? I am considering putting it back into use but I have a few questions...

It will require a new 50" driveshaft. I removed one bolt connecting the old shaft through the center of the implement yoke. I have not before seen a shaft connected this way. The yoke appears to be 1-1/4" but must unseize the shaft to be certain.

The auger is in good shape, connected using two 3/8 shear bolts. Gearbox seems okay too.

The top link looks like it connects to the center link arm rather than directly to the bracket hole (with the center link removed). My fear is that this arrangement, without lever action, will only lift the auger an amount equal to that provided by my three-point hitch -- about 18 inches.

Am I wrong? Has anyone used one of these? *Perhaps I should buy a new post hole digger considering PTO driveshaft will cost me $200.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=54D8A9906DF22EA8!158&authkey=!AJWYegBo9kp2kwk

 

[bullbreaker]

I'am no expert and by your only pic kinda hard to see,but I'd say that PHD is homemade. At least by looks of weld job on top link center.Now of course the gear box,auger etc seem pretty standard. I don't know why it would not work. Might work really well with extra weight of that big 3 PT bracket (DOWNFORCE). You don't have anyone near you that would let you borrow missing parts so you could try a hole or two and see how it works ?
If you decide to get it up and running make sure you put a cover on the pto shaft. Also I don't know if it would work on a cut.

Boone

 

[bcp]

My fear is that this arrangement, without lever action, will only lift the auger an amount equal to that provided by my three-point hitch -- about 18 inches.

By changing the height of the top link hole on the implement, the height change at the rear of the implement when lifted can be adjusted.

Dimensions at the tractor end of the hitch on your tractor may differ from the tractor the implement was made for, so you need to do a test lift. I expect it will be OK.


Someone complained that they built a boom pole, but the end went down when the hitch was lifted. They had the pole's top link hole in the wrong location.

Bruce

 

[LouieJunior]

Maybe I could get a shorter center link arm, which would extend vertical limits of the auger movement.

 

[SSdoxie]

Maybe I could get a shorter center link arm, which would extend vertical limits of the auger movement.

A shorter top link will get tip of the auger higher off the ground but you will still be limited in dig depth by the maximum travel of the lower lift arms. Only way I can see that one working full travel would be adding a hydraulic top link so you could change the top length as you dig then shorten it back up to lift out.

 

[bcp]

If the PHD doesn't have enough range of motion at the gearbox, raising the attachment point for the top link will give it more motion when lifted. Normally the top link makes the rear of the implement raise more than the front, but if that is not enough, you can get more movement by raising the top link hole on the implement hitch.

Here is a diagram about what I mean.

Bruce

View attachment 279129

 

[LouieJunior]

If the PHD doesn't have enough range of motion at the gearbox, raising the attachment point for the top link will give it more motion when lifted. Normally the top link makes the rear of the implement raise more than the front, but if that is not enough, you can get more movement by raising the top link hole on the implement hitch.

Here is a diagram about what I mean.

Bruce

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=279129"/>

Bruce - this is helpful. There are a few available holes for the top-link connection on the PHD -- and space to heighten it, if necessary. I also have three positions on my tractor to which I can hook the top link.

 

[bcp]

Lowering the tractor end will help just like raising the implement end of the top link.

If this PHD worked for someone else, it can most likely be made to work for you.

Bruce

 

[boggen]

with you messing around trying to get 3pt hitch lower arms and top link figured out. and noting of a new pto shaft. make sure you you double check PTO shaft you need. and also double check you do not bottom the out the PTO shaft. other words you may need to cut any PTO shaft you end up getting down for correct fit.

also keep in mind, a PTO shaft might be just right on one tractor. but PTO shaft may end up being to short or to long on another tractor.

================
normally i end up running a PHD at low RPM's vs as high as possible.

also make sure you get correct type of shear bolt. since this looks like a home made / DIY job.... you might try a lower grade shear bolts. first and see how things go. and then try next grade up if you are shearing bolts left and right digging through easy soil. or go with a slip clutching between PTO shaft and rear end of tractor.

 

[kebo]

My father used this old post hole digger when we were kids. Who knows what kind it is or how old? I am considering putting it back into use but I have a few questions...

It will require a new 50" driveshaft. I removed one bolt connecting the old shaft through the center of the implement yoke. I have not before seen a shaft connected this way. The yoke appears to be 1-1/4" but must unseize the shaft to be certain.

The auger is in good shape, connected using two 3/8 shear bolts. Gearbox seems okay too.

The top link looks like it connects to the center link arm rather than directly to the bracket hole (with the center link removed). My fear is that this arrangement, without lever action, will only lift the auger an amount equal to that provided by my three-point hitch -- about 18 inches.

Am I wrong? Has anyone used one of these? *Perhaps I should buy a new post hole digger considering PTO driveshaft will cost me $200.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=54D8A9906DF22EA8!158&authkey=!AJWYegBo9kp2kwk

I believe that the TWO 3/8" bolts are simply to hold the auger to the output shaft of the gear box. I don't think they are shear bolts!! At least, this is how Leinbach PHD's are made. The shear bolt is on the input shaft to the gearbox, so maybe the other bolt you referred to is the shear bolt???

 

[LouieJunior]

You are probably correct. I assumed the smaller diameter bolts would be the ones to shear. The bolt through the gearbox input shaft measures 7/16". If that one shears, what prevents the PTO shaft from spinning wildly out of control?

Do you suppose there something else attaching the two shafts? I didn't notice another bolt -- but I have been, so far, unable to separate the drive shaft, assuming the two are rusted together. Guess I better take a closer look!

 

[bulldog69]

On most phd the pto shaft will have a small set screw that fits in a groove on the input shaft. This keep the shaft from falling off the input shaft when the shear bolt breaks.

 

[kebo]

On most phd the pto shaft will have a small set screw that fits in a groove on the input shaft. This keep the shaft from falling off the input shaft when the shear bolt breaks.

Yep, the set screw rides in a groove on the input shaft so if the shear bolt does shear, it keeps that end of the PTO shaft from coming off and wreaking havoc.

If you watch the video of PHD assembly on EverythingAttachments.com, Ted will show you the set screw on the PTO shaft.

 

[LouieJunior]

I double checked and find no set screw securing the drive shaft. View the first 10-12 seconds of this clip and let me know what you think. I still can not remove the PTO shaft from the gearbox. I removed the "shear bolt" through the middle.

http://db.tt/kavbZPAc

 

[bulldog69]

I think it's time for some good penetrating oil and let it soak in for a little while. If that don't work it may take some heat to break it loose.