Comparison Midmount or rear finishing mower?

[Landlover22]

I have owned L3540 for almost two years now and I am thinking about get a finishing mower deck. For the last two years I have been using the tractor for mostly landscaping work and snow removal (Wisconsin winters) at our new house (driveway 1,000'+) that we have had for the same amount of time. Now with a lot of the landscaping done I now have grass to cut. I got my tractor with the midmount PTO option, but now I am undecided on midmount or 3 point hitch finishing mower. I understand the big disadvantage of the midmount is putting it on and taking it off, where it takes less time with one on the three point hitch. The biggest thing I have with a rear finishing mower is how it will affect my turning radius when mowing. I am going to have some big straightaway痴 to mow, but my concern is around other obstacles. I know with this big of a deck I am going to have some trimming to do, but I want to limit this trimming as much as possible.

 

[chim]

It's a shame you can't try one of each for several mowings before you decide. Each has it followers. I recently bought my 4th tractor. The first had a MMM and the next three were all RFM. With a little creative mulching around trees and such there's little trimming to do. Some people prefer MMM's.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I bought a L3940 specifically instead of the L4240 because you can only mount a mmm to the L3940 and smaller tractors. I had high hopes of someday getting a mmm due to all the great benefits it offers, mainly trimming around trees. The disadvantage to the mmm is trimming in corners, ground clearance when on, and difficulty to remove, has made me keep my rfm. Areas that I cannot mow with my rfm now get sprayed. I like the rfm, easy to put on and take off. I too have long straight areas to mow. If I really need to trim, I just get out the sprayer, riding mower, push mower, or weed eater, which is not very often. Philip.

 

[oldnslo]

Biggest advantage of RFM Vs MMM is that the RFM can be used with any tractor that has 3PH and rear PTO. MMM fit only a select model or two. My concern with RFM is turning around obstacles like trees, fence rows, buildings, etc. The RFM is going to swing like a bush hog or any other 3PH hitch mounted equipment. For me and my yard this would be a real problem. Open areas I believe a RFM will do the same job as a MMM mower and seem to have similar costs.

Any friends or neighbors have one you could try or possibly the dealer?

Roy

 

[Ed of all trades]

I can put on or remove my MMM in 5min if I work at it. The key is develop a system and follow it.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I really liked the RF mowers on tractors and they cost about half what a MMM costs. Easier to service and detach and reattach.

 

[Ace3]

If cost is not an issue you might want to look at a flail mower. They don't extend back as far as most finish mowers, give a nice cut and on some you can offset them to get close to fences etc.

 

[94BULLITT]

A few things to consider are the rear finish mower will make you longer but will work on any tractor and the mmm is tractor specific. You can do pretty good a getting close to thing with a rfm with a little of experience. You could buy a quick hitch and a rear finish mower and have the thing off really fast but I doubt a mmm would be that bad to take off. A lot depends on your yard and if you can get around with a rfm. The big thing to me is a rfm is universal, if you decide to get another tractor you will be able to use it on there. Like Ace3 said you may want to consider a flail mower. I have never used one but a lot of guys one here seem to like them. I think alot of guys are gettin theirs at agrisupply.

 

[WilliamBos]

I really liked the RF mowers on tractors and they cost about half what a MMM costs. Easier to service and detach and reattach.

I agree on both points. RFM is the way to go.

 

[Jeff F.]

I have a lawn and not a yard. I prefer a MMM with my hills and numerous trees. I have at times, cut twice as the front tires mashed the grass down and it was not cut to my requirements. I would think that would be more of a problem with all four tires running the grass down before it gets to the blades. I think it all depends on how particular you are about your grass cutting and finding what works for you.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have a lawn and not a yard. I prefer a MMM with my hills and numerous trees. I have at times, cut twice as the front tires mashed the grass down and it was not cut to my requirements. I would think that would be more of a problem with all four tires running the grass down before it gets to the blades. I think it all depends on how particular you are about your grass cutting and finding what works for you.

I always added "Spring up" to my grass to get the grass to spring back up before the RFM blades engaged the blades of grass to decrease their growth height.
I then stepped up to the plate and left the RFM/MMM tractor world and got Kubota F mowers to get the job done right without having to use "Spring up". I just care enough to go all the way.

 

[Notforhire]

I have a question for you RMFM guys. I have a small pasture (4ac) that I cut, it's mostly grass, with some blackberry bushes that are trying to grow back up. I now use a L3240, w/ a 6 ft Bush Hog. The PTO control on my tractor is electric so it engages suddenly, and stops suddenly too. There is a lot of weight to start spinning back there. I was wondering if a RFM would require less torque to start and stop, and be easier on my tractor.
Would cutting some blackberry bushes wreck a RMFM?
A neighbor has a 6 ft. NH brand RMFM she is trying to sell, and I think I could get it for a good price.

Thoughts?

Bill

 

[PHILIP8N]

A rfm has much less inertia than a bush hog, so it is easier to engage. Here is what I do to engage rear pto equipment. Idle engine, push clutch in, engage pto, slowly release clutch, slowly bring engine rpm up to pto speed. If you still have problems, bring idle speed up to 1200 or 1500 rpm if necessary. To disengage pto equipment, I just push in clutch, disengage pto, release clutch. Philip.

 

[94BULLITT]

I think a 3540 with a mmm will weigh close to 5000#'s. I know my tractor beats the grass down bad just running over it one time. Have you thought about a bx with a mmm?

I have a question for you RMFM guys. I have a small pasture (4ac) that I cut, it's mostly grass, with some blackberry bushes that are trying to grow back up. I now use a L3240, w/ a 6 ft Bush Hog. The PTO control on my tractor is electric so it engages suddenly, and stops suddenly too. There is a lot of weight to start spinning back there. I was wondering if a RFM would require less torque to start and stop, and be easier on my tractor.
Would cutting some blackberry bushes wreck a RMFM?
A neighbor has a 6 ft. NH brand RMFM she is trying to sell, and I think I could get it for a good price.

Thoughts?

Bill

Are you clutching it when you engage it? I would stick with the rotary cutter you have if you have bushes growing up.

 

[WilliamBos]

I you buy a good set of Radial turf tires, you will not have a problem. Properly inflated your foot print and compaction will be minimal.

 

[Notforhire]

A rfm has much less inertia than a bush hog, so it is easier to engage. Here is what I do to engage rear pto equipment. Idle engine, push clutch in, engage pto, slowly release clutch, slowly bring engine rpm up to pto speed. If you still have problems, bring idle speed up to 1200 or 1500 rpm if necessary. To disengage pto equipment, I just push in clutch, disengage pto, release clutch. Philip.

My tractor has an electric operated PTO. There is no foot or hand operated clutch. You pull out the switch and it engages. You push it in and it stops. There is also a brake on the PTO which does not allow it to coast down. The brake comes on as soon as you shut down the PTO.

Bill

 

[94BULLITT]

My tractor has an electric operated PTO. There is no foot or hand operated clutch. You pull out the switch and it engages. You push it in and it stops. There is also a brake on the PTO which does not allow it to coast down. The brake comes on as soon as you shut down the PTO.

Bill

I so exactly what Philip said. You use the same clucth you have to push to get the tractor to start.

 

[RobertBrown]

The amount of trimming with each mower is hard to determine, but you'll have it with either. I use a pull behind and I can tell you that between the loader and the mower, it takes a lot of room to turn around and some getting used too, you have to be on your toes, so to speak.
Doesn't seem like money is an issue so if you can get the mid mount off in 5 minutes? Get the Mid mount. Get a good one. If it's not made with 5/16" plate steel, don't buy it. Do not get one of those sheet metal decks as it won't hold up,
If you have a loader and you will be mowing with the loader on, seriously consider a MMM.
But I think either way you will get the job done.

 

[PHILIP8N]

My tractor has an electric operated PTO. There is no foot or hand operated clutch. You pull out the switch and it engages. You push it in and it stops. There is also a brake on the PTO which does not allow it to coast down. The brake comes on as soon as you shut down the PTO.

Bill

There is a clutch pedal on left side of the floor board. By slipping this clutch, you can slowly engage your pto shaft. Follow my instructions above and try it! Philip.

 

[Notforhire]

I so exactly what Philip said. You use the same clucth you have to push to get the tractor to start.

I have a GST. The clutch has no control over the PTO. It is what they call an independent PTO. It doesn't work like a Kubota HST. When you push in the clutch and come to a stop, the PTO is still under power, untill you push the stop switch. Honest.

Bill