Buying Advice Small tractor advice

[meburdick]

Well, it really depends on what you may end up wanting to do with the machine in the future. If you're reasonably sure that you don't want to own your own machine for moving mulch, gravel, snow, dirt, etc... Then a loader won't be useful. If you have one or two projects where that might be useful, you could consider renting a machine. When I bought my machine, I wanted to use it as much as I could when installing my new above-ground pool. But, I couldn't justify spending $7,500 for a backhoe attachment to dig two trenches for the electrical work. I rented a machine instead.

Yes, the On Ramp decks are drive-over. But, so is the deck for the 1026R. The largest difference that you'll find is that the 1026R deck can auto-connect to the mounting points on the tractor and there's even an option for auto-connect of the PTO to operate it. The 2x20 machines require you to get off of the machine, raise and lift a lock lever, then twist two mounting hooks. Once done, you'll also have to pull the collar pack on the PTO shaft, slip it onto the splines of the PTO, then position it to lock into the positive detent. Sounds complicated, right? I can have my deck off of my machine in under a minute, and reinstalled in about the same amount of time (if I'm being timed). Double that time frame if being leisurely.

Low ground clearance is mostly about terrain navigation. If you have a level lot that's reasonably smooth, lower clearance will not likely be an issue for you. The biggest advantage to the higher clearance machines is actually more about tire size and contact patch than it is about the clearance itself. The 2320 / 2520 machines, for example, will distribute their weight better on the larger tires. And, generally, you will get much more traction from them on hills, in the dirt, in the mud, and in the snow. I have the 54" snowthrower attachment for my 2520, the rear tires are ballasted turfs, and I do not use chains because I don't have to.

 

[meburdick]

Well, it really depends on what you may end up wanting to do with the machine in the future. If you're reasonably sure that you don't want to own your own machine for moving mulch, gravel, snow, dirt, etc... Then a loader won't be useful. If you have one or two projects where that might be useful, you could consider renting a machine. When I bought my machine, I wanted to use it as much as I could when installing my new above-ground pool. But, I couldn't justify spending $7,500 for a backhoe attachment to dig two trenches for the electrical work. I rented a machine instead.

Yes, the On Ramp decks are drive-over. But, so is the deck for the 1026R. The largest difference that you'll find is that the 1026R deck can auto-connect to the mounting points on the tractor and there's even an option for auto-connect of the PTO to operate it. The 2x20 machines require you to get off of the machine, raise and lift a lock lever, then twist two mounting hooks. Once done, you'll also have to pull the collar pack on the PTO shaft, slip it onto the splines of the PTO, then position it to lock into the positive detent. Sounds complicated, right? I can have my deck off of my machine in under a minute, and reinstalled in about the same amount of time (if I'm being timed). Double that time frame if being leisurely.

Low ground clearance is mostly about terrain navigation. If you have a level lot that's reasonably smooth, lower clearance will not likely be an issue for you. The biggest advantage to the higher clearance machines is actually more about tire size and contact patch than it is about the clearance itself. The 2320 / 2520 machines, for example, will distribute their weight better on the larger tires. And, generally, you will get much more traction from them on hills, in the dirt, in the mud, and in the snow. I have the 54" snowthrower attachment for my 2520, the rear tires are ballasted turfs, and I do not use chains because I don't have to.

 

[firefighterjrm]

As stated look at what you are going to do/need for your tractor but also take time to go to the dealer look at different machines and sizes and see which on fits for you also look at possible future needs. I think everyone on here will tell you the same once they got there tractor they found more and more uses then what they thought they would use it for. Also I would price out items example 3032e w/FEL+D seris lawn mower verses a 2320 w/FEL with drive over 62D verses 1026R w/FEL with a drive over deck, I think you will be suprised. All the tractors listed above are excellent machines and all of them have there +'s and -'s. As I stated I had a 2320 nice little tractor and would more than likely still have it had I not had the problems which was a defect from the factory. Now that I have two seperate machines the 3032e and D 140 I could not be happier wish I had done it in the first place it would have been the same price in which I paid for the 2320 with drive over deck. The 1026r I do not know much about but reading reviews it seems to be solid platform with good reviews I know deere has a 0% for 60 months on the 1 seris now, for me the 1 seris was just a little to small for me but that is not to say it is not a good tractor. Hope this helps

 

[EdC]

Beaglenut
I mentioned ground clearance in the first reply because it is an important issue to me when I take the 2320 over unimproved, rough areas of my property. The front wheels throw up sticks, there are rocks (boy are there rocks) and that sort of thing could get jammned into a hydraulic line or drive shaft and could cause damage. As far as getting stuck the extra ground clearance may help a little but I have been stuck (only temprarily cause the FEL can help get me unstuck) many times but only bottomed out once. Some of those times were my fault when I stayed in 2 wheel drive when it was way too muddy. Now, if it is that mucky I just stay away from that area until it dries out. So again the ground clearance was more a debris/damage to tractor issue then a getting stuck issue. I certainly agree with the post that mentioned sitting on all of the candidate machines and operating them to see how well they fit.

 

[jenkinsph]

This recommendation seems completely over the top. What are you basing that on? I have a 2520 with a 62D On Ramp deck, and that thing is absolute overkill for my 1 acre of property. The only reason I bought a machine "that big" was to get the FEL capacity of well over 1,000 pounds because I move firewood in log lengths and stacked on pallets.

The 1026R is a well-rounded machine that will do a lot. If you don't need a loader, don't get one. If you decide in the future that it's useful, add it then (my absolute, hands-down most used function on my tractor is lifting / moving with my pallet forks).

Ballast the rear tires for extra stability and traction when pulling, and you'll be able to do just about any basic task you need. Adding a loader with a bucket would give you a means to move snow when necessary, too.[/QUOTE



The 2720 is a good choice for twenty acres the OP mentions. For one acre I doubt I would have more than an x320 and a cart. Lots of new property owners start out thinking they will just mow the lawn around the house but soon they usually want to get more involved with the whole place and are on TBN looking to trade up which is costly. Better to get it right the first time.

 

[parkerpusher]

I have run much larger machines, and personally have found the 1026R to be suprisingly capable...it feels much larger than it really is when it comes to getting work done, and it is still small enough to store easily in a garage or a storage container (as I do). I think that if you buy a new machine, using the 0% financing etc., that you would be making a mistake NOT to get the loader. There are only a few things in life that you find that you didn't need before you had, but once you have one you will NEVER be without. A FEL is going to be one of those things if you are going to own a small tractor. Without the loader, you are going to realize that you have this beautiful machine you paid thousands for to help you get work done sitting 15 feet from you while you struggle to lift a propane tank from the back of the truck or some other chore like that. They go off and on in just a minute, and you will use it ALOT in my opinion.

I think the 1026R is right for you. But look and drive everything first. Also, before investing in a machine, I would recommend spending at least a few months with your new property. Your perspective on things will likely change as far as what you need or want etc, and there is no need to rush an important decision.

By the way, while the 1026R would likely make a great mower, I mow with a small dedicated mower instead. If I had wide open stretched and could make use of a wider deck, then I might consider a MMM for the R. I have so many ups and downs and small spots to get to that a dedicated mower works better for me.

 

[joshuabardwell]

There are only a few things in life that you find that you didn't need before you had, but once you have one you will NEVER be without. A FEL is going to be one of those things if you are going to own a small tractor. Without the loader, you are going to realize that you have this beautiful machine you paid thousands for to help you get work done sitting 15 feet from you while you struggle to lift a propane tank from the back of the truck or some other chore like that. They go off and on in just a minute, and you will use it ALOT in my opinion.

This guy is right. If you ever have to lift things or carry things, get the loader. Divided out over the life of the 0% financing, the price will be tolerable. Your machine will be substantially less capable if you pass on the loader, and it will probably sting for you to come up with the cash to purchase the loader after the fact. The days when all a person did with a tractor was pull a plow and a disc are long gone.

Some things you can do with a loader that you might not have thought of: carry water to plants for irrigation; push in and pull out T-posts; use as a giant mixing trough for animal feed, then BONUS, dump the feed into the hopper all in one go; hang a deer carcass from it; raise up a water barrel or two for gravity-feeding something; get your tractor un-stuck from some situation where you got it stuck; lift implements onto and off of the back of your truck or trailer; and the list goes on and on, especially if you start adding attachments other than just a bucket, like a hay spear or pallet forks.

 

[parkerpusher]

Amen.

Also, having a matched loader for a small tractor will help your resale value (if and when you sell it) so much that it will seem like the loader was free, and you will sell it much much faster.

This guy is right. If you ever have to lift things or carry things, get the loader. Divided out over the life of the 0% financing, the price will be tolerable. Your machine will be substantially less capable if you pass on the loader, and it will probably sting for you to come up with the cash to purchase the loader after the fact. The days when all a person did with a tractor was pull a plow and a disc are long gone.

Some things you can do with a loader that you might not have thought of: carry water to plants for irrigation; push in and pull out T-posts; use as a giant mixing trough for animal feed, then BONUS, dump the feed into the hopper all in one go; hang a deer carcass from it; raise up a water barrel or two for gravity-feeding something; get your tractor un-stuck from some situation where you got it stuck; lift implements onto and off of the back of your truck or trailer; and the list goes on and on, especially if you start adding attachments other than just a bucket, like a hay spear or pallet forks.

 

[firefighterjrm]

I think there has been alot of valid points posted, from past experince I have found that this person may say 2320 is the best way or 2720 is the best the 1026r is hands down what you need and I think it will be best for you to go to the dealer ask questions look at the machines get on them write down your questions look at what you need now and maybe in the future. I personally like the 3032e/3038e tractors due to the simplicity of it but as I stated it also has it draw backs but it fits my need's but may not fit others. As far as the FEL (front end loader) I have to agree with others that is something that you should strongly consider getting due to so many uses and as others stated it would be eaiser now to finance verses having to buy out rite later. As far as the drive over decks go some LOVE it but take a close look at the price and set up charges for this, for price of this you can buy a seperate J.D. lawn tractor which to me it just make since but there again thats just me. Finally look at what you might be using your rear PTO is going to be used for due to larger impliments require higher rear PTO for larger rear impliments. At the end of the day compare the machines (different sizes) along with pricing to get what best fits you for your current and future needs.

 

[jenkinsph]

I think the small fels on a 1026R or x700 series mowers are too costly for what you can do with them. They require alot of extra ballasting that makes them less optimum as mowers imo. A better way to go is a separate lawn mower without the added weight of ballasting and a tractor with fel, ballast and higher ground clearance that the 2x20 series and up offers. I wouldn't wan't to use a 1026R or a 749 to drive through the woods to collect firewood just not enough ground clearance.

For the limited tasks the OP listed an x749 would work very well along with a pickup truck. Bear in mind that most of what the OP has listed will be mowing three acres, hard to know what else he will do in the future. When you start other jobs on twenty acres a larger tractor with fel makes more sense.