Prep & Paint for Jubilee Chasis

[Tractor Ninja]

So here is the plan, need some collective guidance and wisdom on moving forward.

As a little background, I recently bought a Jubilee and have been working on getting a handle on the overall condition. At some point it was painted yellow and one of the things on the to do list is to return it to the orignal colors. I've got all the sheet metal off, exhaust, gas tank & supports and seat. I still need to remove radiator, wheels and rear fenders. I am planning on having a mobile media/sand blaster visit and remove all the old paint. As for the sheet metal a good friend of mine runs a paint and body shop so he will be working the tin for me.

My question is specifically on how to treat the chasis. Once the tractor has been blasted I know that I will need to get it either undercover or primed immediatly. For ease of changinp parts out and maintenance, I'd like to paint the chasis with spray cans if I can achieve a good end result. What products for primer and the Ford red would you suggest that hopefully come in a spray can? I'm not a total purist so a red that is around the correct Ford red is fine with me. Since this is a used working tractor I'd like to be able to change parts out, fix leaks and get her pretty again with a can or two of paint. If this matters, I live in Riverside California so mostly arid, very little rain, almost no humidity and no snow whatsoever. It will be stored under a tarp.

As for the tin, I am supposed to supply my friend with the paint code for the Ford grey, any thoughts on this also? Thank you!:thumbsup:

 

[Dollar Bill]

I would NEVER sand blast a fully assembled tractor - Blast media gets EVERYWHERE. Instead, buy 6-8 cans of quality oven cleaner, park it in the shade and spray the oven cleaner (careful it contains lye) and let it sit overnight. Next morning pressure wash the tractor being careful to stay away from bearings, and oil cups. Power wire brush any loose or flaking paint. If it isn't coming off, leave it alone.

Primer is a personal choice - If it makes you feel good, use it. I've had good luck with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It's tacky even after it dries. FYI, Henry never used primer on his tractors.

Treat any bare or rusted spots with phosphoric acid - Found at Home Depot or Lowe's in the paint section. Here on the right coast, it's called Phosphoric Prep and Etch and is marketed by Klean Strip. Just follow the label directions.

Wash it down with paint thinner before spraying. Blow it off, put on your paint mask and make it pretty.

Rustoleum, Sunrise Red is extremely close to the OEM red. You can brush or roll the paint on the rough castings - Brush strokes won't show up. Any hard to reach areas can be spray canned but you will get better coverage with the roller/brush.

Here are some paint codes for the grey - Ford Paint Code: M 13243, Tisco: TP240, PPG: 32675, Centauri: 250202, Van Sickle: 457

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Great advice and I'm betting that 8 cans of oven cleaner will be much cheaper than a media blaster. You make a good point about Henry not priming the tractor before paint, but I'm betting that the extra step may be an enhancement and worth the extra time and expense. Good to hear Rustoleum has an enamel that is close to the Ford red, I've worked with that product before on a trailer and had positive results. I've got to say that there are a lot of nooks and crannies to get at with a roller and brush. How about shooting it out of a paint gun? I'm assuming that would be better coverage than a spray can? I currently don't have a paint gun but would be willing to pick a cheap one up from Harbor Freight for the ordeal.

Good information about the Ford grey, thank you!

 

[Soundguy]

ditto what DB said.

blast media gets everywhere.

as for rattle can paint? get a primer that will be compatible with whatever rattle cab you are using.

not my first choice though. IMHO.. you will pay more $$ in rattle cans than buying a 50$ pancake compressor.. and a 20$ harbor greight air syphon gun, and a quart of greay, 1-2 quarts of red.. and a couple quarts of primer.. IMHO

your call.

in either case.. forget covering after blasting, if you do blast. blasted metal will rust in hours if not treated.. even just by humidity in the air..

 

[MasseyWV]

Personally, I like to prime with rattle cans and paint with a spray gun because priming often consists of having to prime many small parts immediately after they have been sandblasted. As mentioned by Sounguy, forget the idea of covering after sandblasting because parts that have been sandblasted will rust within hours if they aren't cleaned and primed almost immediately.

Lastly, I second the advice from Dollar Bill about never sandblasting a whole tractor, because it can and will get into everything.

 

[Soundguy]

you can get little 6 oz touch up guns that let you mix a small amount of primer to paint with. there are also fill your oen bottles that use compressed air.. both would be superior to rattle canning.. though nearly as easy.

 

[Dollar Bill]

How about shooting it out of a paint gun? I'm assuming that would be better coverage than a spray can?

Absolutely, I didn't suggest that as you mentioned spray cans in your original post. You should also add hardener for enhanced durability, just be sure to use a quality respirator.

 

[Tractor Ninja]

WOW, good advice and thank you! So no spray cans and I'm fine with that. I have a compressor so seems I'm halfway there. I do not have a spray gun so a recomendation would be appreciated since our local Harbor Freight isn't too helpful. I'll also research hardners.

 

[Dollar Bill]

The last paint gun I purchased was a Binks # 7 in 1975 so I won't be much help. Still works as good as the day I bought it. You gotta have a quick wrist because it puts out paint like a garden hose.

I'm sure Soundguy will be along shortly to help with a gun selection.

If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, this is what you want for the Rustoleum - I'm away from my receipe until Friday if no one else makes a recommendation, I can get it for you.

Majicｮ Catalyst Hardener, 1/2 pint - 1177127 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[bucktaker]

You can get a cheapo hvlp gun online as well as a mask/respirator use a hardner its worth it.

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Sounds good, here is the game plan:

1. Oven Cleaner - let sit overnight
2. Presure Washer - remove oven cleaner and all flaking paint
3. Power wire - remove any paint the pressure washer doens't take off
4. Klean Strip - phosphoric prep per manufacturer's direction
5. Paint Thinner - final cleaner
6. Primer - use spray gun to apply. Primer to be compatible with paint
7. Paint with Majic hardner - use spray gun to apply. Wear respirator and sunglasses to cut down on the shininess of the new paint;-)

 

[Dollar Bill]

Sounds like a good plan of attack. Here's the info I promised on the hardener:

Use hardener. Valspar, Kirker, 5 star, whatever. Just make sure you use acrylic enamel hardener. also, use acrylic enamel reducer, not lacquer thinner. It is very important.

Follow my mix ratio and not what the can says. 8:6:1
8 parts paint
6 parts reducer
1 part hardener
Use a quality wax and grease remover liberally before painting. (Prop-Sol is a DuPont product that I've great results with)

Red or gray scotch-brite pads make it short work to get things perfectly clean and properly scuffed.

 

[Soundguy]

the ommon HF guns are sometimes binks knock offs.

usually you can get a syphon or hvlp gun from HF for 20$ or so.. or the kit with a gun and connectors for 25$

a 25$ gun and 25$/gallon paint.. 14$ can of hardner, 20$ a gallon primer.. 10$ stack of sand paper, 20$of bondo, and a 5$ spray bottle of purple stuff plus a BUNCH of hours of elbow grease and sweat equity wll yeild a paint job that looks DARN good.

on the other hand.. a 200$ gun, and 200$ a gallon paint plus $$$ supplies and 10 minutes of prep work will yeail a cruddy job.

it's mostly in the prep than in t he tools and materials. cheap paint.. cheap tools.. and lots of prep time look better than expensive tools and materials and cheap prep work..

The last paint gun I purchased was a Binks # 7 in 1975 so I won't be much help. Still works as good as the day I bought it. You gotta have a quick wrist because it puts out paint like a garden hose.

I'm sure Soundguy will be along shortly to help with a gun selection.

If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, this is what you want for the Rustoleum - I'm away from my receipe until Friday if no one else makes a recommendation, I can get it for you.

Majicｮ Catalyst Hardener, 1/2 pint - 1177127 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[Soundguy]

ps... othing makes a flaw in body work stand out quite as much as paint.

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Great information and thank you for sharing! I'm off with a shopping list this weekend, while my projects tend to go much slower than planned, I'll keep this thread up to date.

Quick question, I'm assuming that the wax and grease remover should be used prior to the oven cleaner or righ after?

Sounds like a good plan of attack. Here's the info I promised on the hardener:

Use hardener. Valspar, Kirker, 5 star, whatever. Just make sure you use acrylic enamel hardener. also, use acrylic enamel reducer, not lacquer thinner. It is very important.

Follow my mix ratio and not what the can says. 8:6:1
8 parts paint
6 parts reducer
1 part hardener
Use a quality wax and grease remover liberally before painting. (Prop-Sol is a DuPont product that I've great results with)

Red or gray scotch-brite pads make it short work to get things perfectly clean and properly scuffed.

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Without breaking out the almighty google power, what are the main differences between a syphon and hvlp gun? I've got a decent air compressor, if that makes a difference.

the ommon HF guns are sometimes binks knock offs.

usually you can get a syphon or hvlp gun from HF for 20$ or so.. or the kit with a gun and connectors for 25$

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Sage advice and well taken. I am taking a bit of a shortcut on this as a buddy who runs a local paint and body shop is working the tin for me. I believe a wise man knows his own limitations and I definetly have many limitations, my problem is that I'm not overly wise either;-) My "skin in the game" on this project is the chasis and engine paint and I want it to look as good as the professionally re-worked and painted tin will. In addition, I am blown away on how well these tractors hold up over time. I'm fortunate to live in an arid environment so if I pull this re-paint off well, it should give this Jube another 50+ years!

ps... othing makes a flaw in body work stand out quite as much as paint.

 

[Dollar Bill]

I'm assuming that the wax and grease remover should be used prior to the oven cleaner or righ after?

Just before you are ready to paint - First wash with enamel thinner followed by Prep-Sol and then blow down with an air hose with a moisture separator on it.

what are the main differences between a syphon and hvlp gun? I've got a decent air compressor, if that makes a difference.

Siphon guns use a lot of air to atomize the paint - It uses the venturi effect to suction the paint of of the paint cup. It also means more over spray.

HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) is more like a paint pot in that the paint cup is pressurized which provides more paint with less air and less over spray.

The HVLP would probably be easier to learn to paint with.

 

[Soundguy]

ditto what DB said.

generally syphon guns are cheaper and use alot more air. the hvlp put down alot of paint.

if you are learnign for the first time.. get hvlp.. if you have used a syphon and switch to hvlp.. you will probably get runs on the first shot.. so test paint some cardboard.

I like both.. and use both for different applications..e tc.