CT225 alternator capacity

[joshuabardwell]

Can anybody help me out with the capacity of the alternator on my CT225? I'm pondering adding ROPS lights and want to determine how much headspace I'm likely to have. If it turns out it's in the back of the manual, I'm going to kick myself.

What's a reasonable assumption for current draw when the tractor is running? (I have a multimeter with up to 10A DC capacity, but I don't think I'd like to put it in between the positive terminal and the rest of the tractor.) There aren't really any accessories I can think of, per se. Headlights, if they're on. Dash lights, I suppose. And some current for charging the battery. What else?

Thanks.

 

[EssexBoy]

Need to know what type of alternator is fitted to it, have a look on alternator and post back. it should say on it what Amp's it will give.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I ran 2 12v tractor utility lights on my ROPS with no problem. I am not sure how much they pulled. I think it was only about 55w each.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Less then 1Amp

55 Watts at 12 volts is 4.6 amps. Right?

 

[joshuabardwell]

Need to know what type of alternator is fitted to it, have a look on alternator and post back. it should say on it what Amp's it will give.

Ahhhh yeah. Well, that's almost as dumb as if it was in my owner's manual. It says right on the alternator: 50 Amps. Hard to imagine what on the tractor would suck that up, short of the headlights. The Internet says charging a 12 volt battery can be anywhere from around 2 to around 10 amps, depending on if it's quick-charge or not. So it seems like that leaves something like 40 amps for running accessories on the tractor. I'm thinking I should be fine to put a few 55-watt lights up there.

 

[joshuabardwell]

So that brings me to my next question: Can anybody tell me the name of the connectors that are on the hot lead at the back of the tractor? They're not spade connectors. Rather, they are tubular in nature, with a flare on them. They're also polarized (male/female) so you can't switch the hot and ground. I've never seen them before, though.

 

[SSdoxie]

Joshua,
I see you found the alternater AMPS, which is also printed on page 215 of the Operator manual. The wire connector are "bullet" connectors with moisture resistant sleeve and is fed through 10 amp fuse. The light bar kit Bobcat offers is (2) 21w lights. The complete kit includes lights, mounting brackets to clamp on the ROPS, and harness for suggested list around $70.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Joshua,
I see you found the alternater AMPS, which is also printed on page 215 of the Operator manual.

Oh geez. Seriously? I went all through that thing and didn't find it.

21 watts sounds a bit weak. I've seen a lot of people using the 55 watt lights from Northern Tool, and putting two, for a total of 110 watts of illumination. Have you got that kit? Is it bright enough?

 

[joshuabardwell]

I can't seem to find any information about the light kit on the Bobcat site or anywhere else. I found a reference to a rear working light, but that's it--just a picture, and nothing more. Can you give me any more information? How is the light controlled, for example? Does it come on with the head lamps or what?

 

[SSdoxie]

I don't have the kit (yet). I don't do much after dark but have tried finishing up some loader work in the dark, and get impooisble to see when the bucket is about 2' off the ground. Sometimes the wattage is as important as how the lens facites the light, but I haven't seen this kit on one so no idea. The options & accessories are sold through the parts department, thus sales literature doesn't list everything available. Kit does mention a switch and the wire schematic shows the power lead on the tractor is on constant with the key on. So lights come on with the key and you have option to shut them off during the day light hours.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I don't have the kit (yet). I don't do much after dark but have tried finishing up some loader work in the dark, and get impooisble to see when the bucket is about 2' off the ground. Sometimes the wattage is as important as how the lens facites the light, but I haven't seen this kit on one so no idea. The options & accessories are sold through the parts department, thus sales literature doesn't list everything available. Kit does mention a switch and the wire schematic shows the power lead on the tractor is on constant with the key on. So lights come on with the key and you have option to shut them off during the day light hours.

Thanks. This is, really helpful.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Ooohhhh.... now this is downright sexy. Switches and a 12-volt port in the same box.

http://www.amazon.com/Seasense-Marine-Way-Switch-Panel/dp/B002VHWLP2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top



If the lights are 55 watts each, and I put two of them on a single switch (two forward, two back, at most), that's about 10 amps. Given that the switches are rated for 20 amps (with 15 amp fuses), I should not need to bother using a relay, right?

The aux lighting lead that is at the back of the tractor appears to be quite a small gauge of wire. I'm guessing it's only intended for the backup light. This box could, in theory, pull 15 amps X 4 = 60 amps. Realistically, my alternator would give out before that happened. It looks like 12 gauge can go 10 feet at 50 amps/12 volts, so it seems like the right thing to do would be to pull a 12 gauge line directly off the battery's positive terminal and run it back to the switch box. That should handle as much amp draw as I'm likely to pull, given the current alternator (pun intended).

Although the switch box is fused, it is probably good practice to put a fuse right at the battery terminal--or is that not necessary? I have seen other examples where that has been done, but at the same time, the tractor's own electronics all run to the fuse box under the dash. Their wiring between the battery and the fuse box is just as exposed as mine would be. What's the difference?

I saw another example here where the person cut a square in his fender and mounted the switches there. It's a tempting location, but wow... cutting my fender... holy cow. Nervous much?

 

[94BULLITT]

There is a plug in the dash below iginition switch pop it out and you can get a universal headlight switch from the auto parts store that will go right in it with no drilling. I mounted a couple of these on my rops. Both of these light draws around 1 amp if I remember correctly. I got some u bolts from the hardware store. I had a piece of aluminum a drilled holes init to fit the u bolt and a whole for the light.

 

[joshuabardwell]

There is a plug in the dash below iginition switch pop it out and you can get a universal headlight switch from the auto parts store that will go right in it with no drilling.

I think I know the plug you're talking about. It looks like it might be where the throttle would be, if the throttle was on the left side?

Thanks for the link. The LED lights sure pull a lot less wattage, and there's actually not too much of a price difference there, which is what has always kept me back in the past.

EDIT: Ahh... well, apples to apples, it doesn't look as good. The LED puts out 340 lumens at 1 Watt draw. The Halogen puts out 1450 lumens at 5 watts draw. On a watt-for-watt basis, they're comparable, especially when you consider that the halogen is just bulb output, not lamp output (it's going to lose some to the reflector). But on a dollars per lumen basis, it's no contest.

 

[94BULLITT]

I think I know the plug you're talking about. It looks like it might be where the throttle would be, if the throttle was on the left side?

Thanks for the link. The LED lights sure pull a lot less wattage, and there's actually not too much of a price difference there, which is what has always kept me back in the past.

EDIT: Ahh... well, apples to apples, it doesn't look as good. The LED puts out 340 lumens at 1 Watt draw. The Halogen puts out 1450 lumens at 5 watts draw. On a watt-for-watt basis, they're comparable, especially when you consider that the halogen is just bulb output, not lamp output (it's going to lose some to the reflector). But on a dollars per lumen basis, it's no contest.

No the plug is below the ignition switch on the right side. The hole your are talking about is for a sst tractor shifter handle. Those lights where good enough for a tractor at 5 or 10mph. I'll take a picture of my bracket I had on my ct235.

 

[joshuabardwell]

No the plug is below the ignition switch on the right side. The hole your are talking about is for a sst tractor shifter handle. Those lights where good enough for a tractor at 5 or 10mph. I'll take a picture of my bracket I had on my ct235.

I'd love to see the bracket. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[94BULLITT]

I'd love to see the bracket. Thanks for the suggestions.

Here are some pics of the bracket and switch. I think this is the switch I used. Be sure however you hook it up it is fused. If you don't go with leds you will need a relay. For a fuse you can use a fuse tap or get a switch with a built in fuse.

 

[joshuabardwell]

If you don't go with leds you will need a relay.

Tell me more about the relay, please? I have found plenty of switches that are rated for 10-15 amps or more. If the circuit pulls less than that, do I still need a relay?

 

[94BULLITT]

Tell me more about the relay, please? I have found plenty of switches that are rated for 10-15 amps or more. If the circuit pulls less than that, do I still need a relay?

If you are not going with leds you will need a realy. You buy a harness kit with a wire, switch and relay.

 

[94BULLITT]

It may be cheaper an easier to buy the bobcat kit for $70. If you do not like the lights you could always upgrade them. I would have gone that route but I did not know they existed.